Zed Head

It does sound like that injector is bad. I would replace it. Make sure you get a turbo injector. We might never know what's going on with your distributor cap.

Here's a nice graphic for anyone traveling. "Case per 100,000" probably correlates to probability or odds of contacting someone with the virus. More sick people in an area means you're more likely to run across one. Although, of course, in the Midwest there's a lot more space between people. Kind of odd that the numbers there are so high. The main stream media should be reporting things this way but they just like to show big sickness or death numbers. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/coronavirus-thanksgiving-college-kids-122920956.html

The specs look pretty good. I seem to remember that there used to be a warning on the container about the ZDDP content and catalytic converters. But I don't see it anymore. The Rotella is a low soot, low sludge formulation. Both sound good. Maybe they got rid of the ZDDP finally. I used regular motor oil, no ZDDP, in my two L28's and did not destroy any cams. I think that the ZDDP is more for break-in than long-term usage. Not even sure it's a huge issue with catalytic converters either, I think it's a long-term degradation of the converter if you keep using it, and if your engine burns oil. How did they used to break in a 280ZX engine or California 280Z engine and what did they run afterward? Always a fun discussion topic. https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/conventional-motor-oil/rotella-triple-protection.html https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/conventional-motor-oil/rotella-triple-protection/_jcr_content/par/productDetails.stream/1520976123954/02cdc4507e718cd0fc768d05faab7059e52f0938/t4-15w-40.pdf https://cen.acs.org/articles/84/i31/ZDDP-motor-oil.html#:~:text=ZDDP operates by forming a,tailpipe of an operating engine.

$28,750 for a modded 73 240Z is not bad. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-137/

The doors changed in 1977 for sure. Not sure about other years. There's no info about what car you're working in in your post. There are some good articles in the various "Resources" sections. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/10-tech-articles/ https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/ https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/body-paint/

More breeze is good.

Two in a month is bad design/bad parts.

I actually feel pretty lucky here in Washington. But it's still not good, and definitely going to get worse. https://komonews.com/news/coronavirus/covid-19-hospitalizations-at-record-high-in-washington-hospitals-work-to-keep-beds-open https://covidactnow.org/us/washington-wa?s=1360346

On your last picture, the wire that you are holding goes to the cylinder head temperature sensor (CHTS).

The point that gets overlooked and under-reported by the media often is the ICU capacity. Lots of philosophizing over death versus long-haul, young versus old, etc. but the other really big issue is that the strokes and heart attacks and car accident victims don't have anyone to take care of them if the beds are full of COVID-19 patients. Responding generally to motorman7, I have 246 on Ignore, don't know what he said. Sorry 246 but your comments are racist, and irrelevant.

Does it still run better when you lift the cap?

Tried to find one on Amazon just to get a view but there's too many choices for those words. I did find these though, which look really useful for our cars. https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B074TBZMLZ/ref=sr_1_31?dchild=1&keywords=low+rise+auto+scissor+lift&qid=1606085425&refinements=p_36%3A-80000&rnid=386419011&s=automotive&sr=1-31

Can't really see it, do you have a separate link? Looks like a giant scissors-type jack? Blue? $600 USD.

I remember when Geraldo used to be somebody. Then a bunch of scandal and now look at him. Kind of like Guliani. How does that happen? The virus should be named after him. It might be in the end. They're working on getting it out there. https://www.businessinsider.com/mnuchin-white-house-working-on-mass-distribution-of-the-virus-2020-11

The seller seems like a rational guy, who knows how things work. Rational thought copied below. Maybe he's been on the forum. Of course, sunroof delete is a well-discussed topic on this forum. And white is pretty easy to color match. The rest of the car is probably in good shape.

And another 73. A little spicier. With a brake system bleed status report! "The braking system was overhauled with a replacement booster, master cylinder, braided stainless steel lines, rotors, calipers, wheel cylinders, and pads in 2018, and the system was last bled in June 2020." https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-137/

Another one, a 73. Nothing too fancy, just a low miles (maybe 108,000) refurb'ed car. Pennsylvania. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-145

You'll probably need the 71B transmission mount also, I think that the T5 mount is different. Depends on how the PO shoehorned that T5 in.

Here's a diagram from the 72 Emissions chapter. It shows a wire going directly to the distributor from the relay. The ammeter they show is a separate one, for diagnostics, not the one in the car. So, you could trace the wire back, or compare colors, or disconnect and test continuity. Or a combination of those. Or you could do a variation of the test as shown in the chapter, and see if the relay has an effect.

Just one more follow-up, maybe should have been the first response. If you're removing the tank and rear suspension the nose of the car should already be on the ground. There's no reason to lift the front. That would be the most stable situation for you. Only lift the back end.

Good luck. Take a picture of your diff from behind and post it and we'll tell you if it's an R180 or R200.

There are several points to jack from and support from. This is from the General Information chapter. You'll probably be fine. The car is only tippy if you lift in the middle, between the recommended points.

How to get limited slip in a Z car is one of those things that looks easy but ends up complex. We all want it, but it's hard to get. There are driveshaft shops all over the place. The 4x4 community supports the businesses. Check your local phone book and make some calls. Find one out away from the city and you can probably get it done and balanced for about $100.

Why do you want to replace the T5? It took some work to get that in to a 240Z.

The yoke/flanges are not meant to be removed. The u-joints are staked in. There are machine shops that will convert them to removable u-joints but it's not a DIY kind of job.