Zed Head

It would be interesting to see more about that system in general. Is it from an 80's GM car? Is it heavily modified? I don't know a lot about TBI, except from exploring injector styles in the wrecking yard and digging in to an occasional GM TBI system. Only the mechanicals though, no electronics.

Here's a followup with more detail about Australia. It's weird that a country that has the image as more primitive and "manly" and independent thinking (Crocodile Dundee and all that), would have a citizenry that would listen to their rational leaders rational requests, and solve the problem. It makes us look far worse since we've had the whole summer, the best environment, to knock it back. We need a 24 hour per day Australia channel so we can all learn. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/nov/15/packed-crowds-and-euphoric-leaders-australia-revels-in-covid-free-days

You can swap the gear and shaft over easily. Push out the small roll pin and the gear/shaft will side right out. It takes some finagling to get the pin out and in but it's not too hard.

1970 Fembot auditions, I think...

How about something got jarred when you removed the distributor cap? The reluctor wheel or the magnet or stator. Those ZX distributors are kind of fragile when they get older. There were some good sparks there, so the make-break circuit seems to work. Looks like a trigger problem.

Vacuum leak? Have you tried shooting the fluid through a plug hole? Where are you squirting the fluid? I don't now the SU TB conversion, just curious. Engine ground strap? Other grounds? The invisible electrical problem...

Are the throttle blades on the SU's opening? How about a problem with the trigger signal to the GM ECU? Or the injectors stuck open?

I've mentioned this before in other posts. I damaged my control module once by leaving two spark plugs disconnected after doing some work and restarting the engine. After I did that the engine wouldn't start normally even though it showed spark. It started with starter fluid only. This was on a hot engine, I never tried when it was cold, I fixed it right away. It had spark but the spark was weak and orange even though I had a GM HEI module. Installing a new module solved the problem. And, here's another odd one - try lifting the distributor cap up an MM or so. Who knows? He had a ZX distributor too.

That's a cool tool. I had clicking on my clutch pedal, and I've read about others having it also. Every clutch release, click, click, click. You can see the groove by eye, so you'll know if it's going.

https://www.theglobeandmail.com/canada/article-how-an-australian-state-beat-its-second-wave-of-covid-19/ By late summer you meant late winter in Australia right? August is mid-winter. I've wondered about migrating south. "By Aug. 2, when Victoria widened the lockdowns to the rest of the state, Melburnians had already been living under stay-at-home orders since early July."

Any chance the coolant temperature sensor is disconnected? Maybe for the pictures or a bump?

Make sure to measure the rod distance of the old one before throwing it away or switching the rod. That way you won't have to do the trial and error approach. Match the distance and you should be golden. Also, while you're under the dash at the pedal you might want to change the clevis pin. They get grooved and reduce throw plus they start to click. Very annoying.

The 71 didn't make it at $44,444. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-158/

And we haven't even hit the big holidays yet. Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years Eve. There is some thought that just Halloween activities have caused some increase in spread. Walking the neighborhood with the little spreaders in their costumes. I wish there was more info on how to survive it if you get it. WA, OR and CA are coordinating quarantining and travel advisories. I'm not sure though, that these guys really understand how long two weeks is. What we need is more testing. https://spectrumnews1.com/ca/san-fernando-valley-ventura/coronavirus/2020/11/13/california-issues-travel-advisory-along-with-oregon--washington https://komonews.com/news/coronavirus/washington-asks-all-incoming-travelers-to-self-quarantine-for-14-days https://covidactnow.org/us/washington-wa?s=1318327

Kind of a goofy question, but did you remove the struts and inspect the insides? Check oil level and oil quality and seals? Did you regrease the u-joints? Also, did you change the engine oil, and if you did, did you use high zinc (ZDDP) oil? At 355 miles the engine is barely broken in. The car is almost more interesting in seeing what happens to those old parts over time. If somebody decides to drive it will the seals disintegrate?

The roll pin holding the fork has been known to loosen up or fall out. The fork from a 4 speed would work. Somebody will have a used fork on the forum or eBay. Hard to imagine that you won't be able to find one. You can figure out a lot without tearing it down very far. Once you get the front case off you can manipulate the shift rods and forks and gears and see what's happening. Then you'll know how deep to go. Plus it might save on having a pro fix it if it's half torn down already. You can always do what a typical Z owner does and just buy a whole transmission, fix the other one anyway, and feel good knowing that you have a spare. Then buy another shell to put all your spare parts in.

I see now. I looked for the VIN over there and the title info in the text. Kind of looks like somebody is just selling an old car, not a 240Z. Good for the buyer. I'd take bets that the ad goes down and comes back up with a different price and more info about the car.

It doesn't look too bad. Actually looks like it probably looked good when it was parked. I wonder if it has a title. Lost titles aren't easy in Washington state. Somebody better buy it before some good samaritan tells him about BAT. @Mike

Yours are working. I meant Jeff Berk's other posts when I pasted his bipod link. He had tagged on to pogden's thread.

Ownallday just did his. It takes some specialized tools and some knowledge about mechanical stuff. You might not have to go that far. The clutch forks are easy to get to once the front case is removed. But if you find a bearing like Ownallday's it gets more complicated.

Here's your other posts, using the bipod thing.

The 72 went for $36,650. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-152/

The scientists aren't always right though. Anyone remember "peak oil theory"? Gas prices are supposed to be so high now due to limited supply that we all want electric vehicles just so we can afford to get around.

The 72 has about 3 hours left. At $25,500 now. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-152/