Zed Head

1976. Just "Readjust as required", but still specifying three ranges to hit, all at the same time.

I think the torque spec is so wide because the goal is to get the end play and preload in range by adjusting the torque. They have set the specs. so that you have to fiddle with it until all three are in the ranges shown. The reality is that nobody measures end play or preload so you might as well just pick a number in the middle of the range. It will have the best odds of meeting all three specs., based on how spec. ranges are typically set. Here's the 280ZX description. I don't know when they added the part about replacing the distance piece, it's not there (I think) in the 280Z FSM. That part just makes it even more confusing since they don't say what you're trying to accomplish by replacing it. I think it's one of the worst procedures I've seen in a service manual. It's from the 1982 FSM. Torque...check..no good...replace... endless loop possible. Edit - actually I see that they said preload OR end play. Weird that one can be out of spec., apparently, if the other one is in spec.

The hissing noise is probably fuel passing through the fuel pressure regulator. That's good. If the engine does not turn over the first thing to check is the yellow wire at the starter solenoid. There is much discussion about it in that other thread. The screwdriver trick will bypass the start switch and supply power directly to the solenoid. You'll see some sparks and hear the solenoid click if you do it right. If the engine is not locked up it should turn over. You can also make your own "remote start switch" with a piece of wire. Run it from the battery positive post or the end of the cable at the starter and touch the other end to the place where the yellow wire connects. The starter should get power and turn the engine over. Be careful when you do these things because you'll be next to the car and if it's in gear it will move.

The videos are essentially just pictures. Nothing happens in them. When you say "turn over" do you mean start or fire? Or do you mean the engine does not spin when you turn the key to Start? Usually the word "crank": is used to talk about the engine crankshaft spinning, and "fire" is used to talk about spark causing combustion. "Turn over" means crank. Crank, spark, fire. iscnetwork had a similar problem. Read that thread. Probably just a connection that has opened up.

I was kind of joking. If you had a beam type wrench you'd see the deflection when the crimps hit and could just add it on. It's probably about 10 ft-lbs added to the 200+ spec.

Anybody ever wonder how the crimps on the locknuts affect the torque reading? Just something to keep you awake at night...

I knew that you knew about the interlock but typically don't read much about them, because I don't have one, and they seem like a real pain. Kind of like the BCDD. One of those things that you hope you never have to deal with. Your jumper at the plug is the elegant solution. I was imagining cutting or tapping wires to get around the switch Didn't know there was a plug, but of course there is. But. If I read the diagram right and the anthony_c's posts, the interlock does not cut power to the coil. Just the starter. So that coil power problem will still be there, for iscnetwork.

This is probably for the manual. "Emergency sw" is probably the button. That might be a good area to bypass the interlock. Just jump the button circuit.

There are two diagrams, both show a neutral device, either a relay or a switch. They didn't label the diagrams though so it's not clear which is for what. One shows an inhibitor "SWICHT" so maybe it's for the automatic. So glad I got a 76 instead of a 75.

I just learned something. I did not know that 75 still had the interlock relay, I thought it was just 74. Here's the page from the 75 manual. I'd check those seat switches. It reads like you have to have your seatbelt fastened also, IF you're sitting in the seat. Or, just reach in the window with no one in the car and start it. Very safe, start the car in gear with no one inside. And, there's a button you can push in an emergency. I would just bypass that relay entirely. What a kludge-up. Good luck.

I had two different brands of 205/70 on my 76 and one set rubbed and the other didn't. The car was slightly lowered though, and the rubbing only happened in the hard twisty/hilly cornering. And it wasn't terrible, just the occasional ZZZT ZZZT on a bump in the corner. Do you think that the small change in diameter is going to have that big of an effect on revs and speedo? Have you used a calculator to verify? Seems like you'd barely notice. Most people buy their tires to make the car look right. Here's a neat calculator. Takes some work to figure out which boxes to check though. It has a slider for RPM to pick your MPH. There's a tire size input area at the bottom. Then you have to "set" it. But the results and graphics are fun. https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx

The yellow wire would have been the wire that actuated the relay. Not really clear how your setup ever worked, if the yellow wire does not get voltage when the key is at Start. And the coil, or the wire to the resistor, should have voltage when the key is On. Find your ignition relay, by the fuse box, and see if it's been getting wet or if it's rusted/corroded.. Seems like you have a circuit broken between the ignition switch and those parts.

That's a great video. The pressure seems lower than most at idle but jumps up quick so is probably fine under load. It's a tough call, I can't think of what you would do about it except a rebuild. The pump looks fine based on how the pressure jumps when you rev it, but the 10 psi at idle seems low. I'm only guessing but it looks like you might just have a worn, or loose, engine. A perfectionist (no offense to those out there) might tear the engine down and rebuild it because it's not "as-new" but it looks like it's supplying oil with back pressure at the higher RPM, so should run fine and last many miles. Maybe run a thicker oil than standard. I'd just run it as it is until you hear a rod bearing knocking. I'm not an expert though, one of the guys who's rebuilt a few might see clues of impending doom there.

I wouldn't focus on the resistor yet. You haven't found the main wires from the harness that supply the resistor with power. And the wire that supplies the yellow start wire. I'd go back to the ignition switch and follow the wires through the connectors. You're looking at the wrong end of the circuit, I think.

This is one of those critical moments in running a business. Do you take a relatively small loss, to keep your customers happy and your reputation in good standing. Or do you hold your ground to save that small cost of fixing the problem, destroying the good will that exists and damaging future sales. California Datsun comes to mind. I hope these guys can handle the broad view. They have a huge selection of parts now, the business has grown quite a bit since it first appeared, not that long ago. This thread is like a case study in a business course. What not to do. Let's see what happens next... https://zcardepot.com/

There might be people here that could fill out the story. The guys that have been around for a while. @Carl Beck

An inline potentiometer would probably make it work right. If you decide to keep it. Crank up the resistance until the light is filament is barely visible in the dark, as described earlier, and it should brighten up when the thermistor gets exposed. p.s. pretty sure ZCD was notified early in this thread but it's looking like they committed to this set of parts and are just going to keep selling them. Like buying reman alternators at the local parts store. Just keep returning it. Too bad. @zcardepot.com p.s. #2 - if I understand all that's been desc (dang it just lost my cursor while typing) ribed in this thread then ZCD should be able to cut the line to the themistor, install a r (lost the cursor again) esistor and make it work right. It will t (lost it again, with a new ad at the bottom) ake some rework but at least they can keep their investment in parts.

You should still have power to the coil with the key on, through the ignition module. The ignition nodules are known to get wet. Seems like you're making progress.

Just quoting this for reference. Another variation on CO's last point is - pull the gas pedal up with your toe or hand, in the cabin. There's really nothing that gets actuated by opening the throttle that should not get de-actuated by forcing it closed. The only other thing that I can think of that would increase idle speed and might get stuck is the vacuum advance in the distributor. It uses ported vacuum to move the breaker plate. But it should lose vacuum when the throttle blade is closed. The BCDD is a weird thing though, with air passages and diaphragms that might get hung up once a pressure differential is created. It hurts my head to study it. All that wizardry just to keep things clean while coasting to s stop. Not sure how you'd diagnose it. You could find a way to block the BCDD port. A piece of clay maybe. Or a pierce of tape. Should be able to reach the one in front of the blade, I think. That's what I'd do if I had your problem and was out of ideas. Block that BCDD air passage.

CO, didn't you do some thought-work in the past about the pressure differential across the throttle blade and how it tends to open the throttle blade if there's no spring force holding it closed? Might just be that the main throttle spring broke. The one in the throttle body itself will close it with no air flow, but it's weak.

Found it. Very weird that this part, which nobody ever talks about ever, showed up twice within two weeks.

So, what you're saying is that the engine immediately revs to 3000 RPM when you start it? Your first post makes it sound like something that happens often, but your last one says it only happened once. Not sure what's going on. How do you get the idle to drop down? Look for a split vacuum hose.

Find the very recent thread about that part. Somebody mentioned that it actually keeps dirt, dust and water out of the bearing. So, dirt, dust, and water would be the issue(s). Use the 280ZX nuts. They need neither.

Yes, it's possible. How long does it take for the idle speed to drop back down? Or, what are you doing to make it drop?

So you are Albrecht on the other forum. That wasn't clear. Since you're a member over there you probably don't know that a non-member can't click on those photos to enlarge them. An error message pops up about "you must be logged in to do that". So, you can't see the copyright. And it's not clear that Albrecht took the pictures. "He" just posted them without explanation. No offense. A person could assume and suppose but that's what's happening with the Bob Sharp story. With this new information though, it seems that "at least 20 years ago", the shell was at Fourways with no engine in it. So, who installed the engine, and the other parts, and when? I like a good puzzle, and a good story, and I don't think that any new knowledge is going to hurt the OP's odds of selling the shell and parts.