Zed Head

My first jack stands were made of wood. Douglas fir, to be exact.

I was just offering another way to get the Konis to work. They already told you that you're on your own. What can you do? So, for the record, this is for the 9/71 240Z in your sig? Maybe the 240Z's just had a lot of variation in parts. Nobody would have paid much attention to the bottom inside of the tube since it was only meant to hold oil. Never meant to seat a shock/insert.

I remember trying to find an illustration for the diff mount and the transmission mount. The best I could do was to assume that the mounts go in with the sloped side facing forward. Like a snow plow or a wedge. I only found one picture that showed that and had to rationalize that the diff mount would be the same. It seemed to make sense when I was actually looking at the parts before installing. Here is the only picture that seems to illustrate that, from 1976. Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear insulator.

The spendy ones are probably what you need for car show judging if you want to get maximum points. But as site said, you can make the inexpensive ones work just fine. Just bend your own lines. It's actually pretty easy, and you can buy pre-fitted lines at the parts store if you need them.

When I swapped my original oil for inserts I messed around with trying to make the aluminum Nissan gland nuts work. Mainly because they looked cool and I wasn't clear at the time about how the gland nut worked. I bought some thick o-rings to place inside the Nissan gland nut to center the shock and I think that it would have worked, after clamping the nut down. But then I figured that the steel KYB nut was the better choice. Point - maybe you can make the Nissan nut work buy adding material, a spacer/centering ring, instead of removing material from the Koni nut.

Could be that your damper pulley has slipped. I assume that the engine runs and you are adjusting timing on the running engine. And that your timing light is connected to the front, #1, cylinder. Does the engine run well? You could remove the distributor lockdown screw and keep turning the distributor if you think that it runs better the farther you turn it. Idle speed will increase as you advance the timing, typically, if you're in the range of 0 to 20 advance. Might just be the old oil pump drive shaft alignment problem. Forgot to ask also, is it the original points distributor?

Sounds like a 77 or 78 engine. Is it a 4 speed, 5 speed, or automatic? Was the car a coupe or a 2+2? The propeller shaft lengths will be different between those two. The extras for the engine are where a lot of value could be. ECU, AFM, alternator, ignition module, distributor, injectors, fuel rail, FPR, throttle body, BCDD, manifolds, EFI relay, etc. See if you can get a list of the extras and their condition. If the seller has been selling off parts piecemeal, the engine might just be bare-bones and expensive to put back together. But if it is complete it will probably add up to a good package deal. If the engine was running when it got hit and the guy stored it in a dry garage it wouldn't be a surprise if it cranked right up and ran after some simple work. You don't have a location shown so hard to guess about the weather there.

Few more places to get updates. Things are getting better, I can't stare at the sun anymore. https://twitter.com/NWSSeattle https://twitter.com/NWSPortland https://twitter.com/NWSSacramento

It's burned in to my brain since the time I forgot to drain the fluid when I was helping a friend change his clutch. He thought I knew what I was doing until the fluid started pouring out on to me when I pulled the drive shaft. It was a 68 Firebird but they're all similar.

That gets soaked with transmission fluid. Some grease on the seal might help it slide in but once it's in and the transmission filled it's wet with fluid. If you put grease in the slip yoke you might even create a hydraulic seal that puts pressure on the output shaft. Might not even be able to get the shaft installed because of the air pocket or excess incompressible grease. It would be a fun and messy experiment.

It seems to show clear air down by the Columbia River mouth. But the airnow monitors show bad air on the ground. Maybe it's more of a high atmosphere monitor. Not sure it's a good guide for how to get away from the smoke, in a car. Cool animation though. https://gispub.epa.gov/airnow/

I noticed that the high pressure EFI hose I bought from Oreilly also "creeped" over time. The hose clamps were looser when I rechecked them after a while. I think that it was the Gates hose with the flouropolymer liner. Maybe it's supposed to be cranked down super tight. I didn't use any additives. Might just be the nature of today's hose. The hose might be designed for spring clamps, the kind that maintain a certain force. That type of clamp would "self-tighten" as the hose material takes a set. Just a thought. And barbs, instead of bubble flares. https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/fuel-line-hose.html

That MS3 system should have its own spark "drivers". You shouldn't need any aftermarket system for the spark side. Looks like it will do a lot of stuff. Lots of race car features. It's a huge jump from no distributor timing advance at all. Did you mean no vacuum advance or no advance at all? Your distributor should have, at least, centrifugal advance. You can see that with your timing light. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3pro-evo-standalone-engine-management-system/

Did you check your Hybridz post? There's a reply there.

Why are ads showing up right in the middle of my words...

So I signed up for Youtube TV. I guess they call them "streaming services" now, we used to call it "cable". Basically you can watch programs on your computer. Or one of the new computerized TV's. Most of today's "TV"s are actually just very large computer monitors. Now I find that the commercials on the major main stream networks that I watch follow my latest Google searches. So Youtube, owned by Google, gets information from Google and tailors the TV commercials to match what I'm looking at on the internet. It's not even spooky anymore. Sometimes i try to mess with them by searching things that i want to see commercials about. Is that some boo sh...t? I don't even have TV commercial commonality with the rest of the world anymore. Just seems crazy that they spend so much time trying to drill in to my head. Many of the ads on the web pages are for things that I just bought on Amazon. I just bought it!! Why show me an ad for it. The above might qualify as a rant. I don't know. Edit - also just realized that this might all be in my head. Not sure...

Coil.

Looks about the size of the one that supplies the heater control vacuum bottle. Just plug it up until you find the vacuum operated thing that doesn't work right. It's nowhere near big enough for something like the brake booster,

The engine removal process looked pretty normal. Many of us have been there. Letting air out of the tires will give you a little more room. Wait until you put it back in and can't the get the tail of the transmission lifted up to fit the back mount. The transmission looks like a "B" model, Not "A". You can tell by the shifter area. It's not "monkey motion".

This might help. It's from the 1971 Owners' Manual. I think that you can bypass the 10 gauge wire way back before it heads up to the ammeter. Not sure where exactly. Maybe bu the fuse panel. The voltmeter will just need a small gauge wire to monitor voltage. @SteveJ probably knows.

I moved away just in time. The whole west coast is being affected. https://www.airnow.gov/?city=Portland&state=OR&country=USA

Is the bottom of the insert you removed narrower than the bottom of the Koni? To allow it to drop down lower in the tube, past the shoulder at the bottom of the hole. Just curious about why the Konis only seem to have this problem.

Looks like you've only removed the valve cover. The sludge is probably from 70's era non-detergent oil and few oil changes. Not really a big deal. You can check the timing chain for wear by checking the notch and groove on the timing chain sprocket. If you have the transmission you can bolt it back up and the starter and turn the engine over. Or build a stand like Dave WM. The engine might have a lot of good miles left in it as-is. Maybe not a good idea to take it apart to rebuild. The next simple step would be to remove the head though, if you decide to go ahead with some level of rebuild. Can't tell much just looking at the rocker arms and cam lobes. Engine rebuilding is a big job though, especially i you're new to engine work. The Engine Mechanical chapter of the FSM goes in to great detail about the work required.

Wait. CO found it a while ago. I forgot. Yours might just be a flow control device.

That might be the mysterious check valve, #17. I've often wondered where, exactly, it sits in the car. We've had conversations about it in the past, what it is and what it's for and how it works, but I don't recall anyone ever finding it. Maybe you've made a critical discovery. They show it as a separate fixture but, like the flame arrestor in the PCV hose, maybe they just jammed it in to the hose.