Zed Head

Then she went over to the three little pigs house, blew it down, and ate grandma. I remember those stories...

It might be. Worth checking. When the whole issue of the ozone layer and R12 started, some countries banned certain refrigerants and others didn't. There was and has been a lot of research going on to find new chemistries. Maybe there is a simple replacement available now that doesn't get much press, because the cars that needed it have all grown old and decrepit. The market is smaller. Also, wouldn't be a surprise to find that R12 is now legal in the US, considering the last three years. Ozone layer? Just use more sunscreen. (That's sarcasm, not my real opinion). https://www.epa.gov/ozone-layer-protection/ozone-depleting-substances https://www.epa.gov/ozone-layer-protection/international-treaties-and-cooperation-about-protection-stratospheric-ozone

Could it be a cold gasoline/warm gasoline situation? Was it cold out when it worked right and went bad when the weather changed?

Do you think it's an engine problem or a transmission problem? Leave it in 1 or 2 and you should be able to rev it up and accelerate, without it shifting at low RPM.

Huh...

AS jonbill describes, it's not what your engine wants but what will survive and stay clean in the engine. The engine will run exactly the same until the plug fouls or burns up.

Sounds like your kick-down is not kicking down. Could be at the transmission or it could be at the gas pedal.

I think it might be an intentional cut to allow a bend. Looks like somebody bent the tip to get more travel.

Is it available in the States?

I used a common cheap aftermarket radiator from OReilly Auto and it worked great. I had to mess with the mounting brackets, they weren't perfect, but once it was installed it was much better than the old factory radiator. On the AC, as I understand things, it's the lubricating oil that is the problem with changing refrigerants. You have to purge the whole system of refrigerant and oil before adding the new stuff. I knew a guy at an import shop that said he had had good results draining systems and leaving them on a vacuum pump overnight before refilling with new material. But, the system still has to be leak free for it to work. If you opened it and didn't hear the whoosh of refrigerant escaping it's probably had moisture inside and corrosion, I'd guess. Odds are against you. Funny story (now, maybe) - I was looking under the hood of my grandfather's truck many years ago when I was a kid and noticed the sight glass for the AC system. I started pressing on it to see if it would move while my grandfather was telling me I shouldn't do that, leave it alone, .... then whoosh, I got a blast of refrigerant in the face as I managed to push the sight glass off its seat. He said he didn't really use it anyway.

This one? It looks oddly straight, more like an intentional cut. Looks like both sides.

Are you using florescent blue coolant? Maybe your camera took some Viagra. That is a common area for a coolant leak.

Welcome. Or Willkommen. @Dave WM rebuilt his struts. He probably has some thoughts. You might find his thread about it on the forum.

You made the mistake of calling them incandescent light bulbs, instead of variable luminosity hot filament synchronization components.

For anyone with school age kids, here is an alternative source of information. It was put together by Rebekah Jones, Florida's COVID-19 database manager, who was fired for refusing to alter the data. https://floridacovidaction.com/schools/

You can adjust idle speed with the idle speed adjustment screw on the the throttle body. The AAR is there to hold the idle speed up just long enough for the engine to get warm enough to raise the idle speed. It's a convenience. Back in the old days we used to sit in our cars (any car) and rev the engine until it would idle on its own. If it was extra cold out we'd remove the air cleaner and hold our hand over the carburetor to get more fuel pull while someone else cranked the engine in order to start it. If we flooded it, we'd hold the throttle wide open and crank until the battery died. Then we'd get some friends or strangers in the vicinity to give us a push for a jump start.

It's very common for them to get stuck or only move a smaller amount than they are supposed to. Your symptoms match a stuck AAR. Many people just remove it and use their eye to see if it's working correctly. You can connect a battery to the terminals and watch it close.

I don't see where you tested to see if the AAR was open when it was cold. That is what will give you a high idle when cold. Open when cold, then closed when hot. The AAR also has an internal heater to heat it up.

Your AAR might be stuck or not working. The AAR should let enough air by the throttle to give you a high idle at cold startup then close and let it drop back down, after about a minute. The L engines are kind of noisy in general.

Yes, but this is where the scientists should be making things clear for us, not more opaque. You can treat the surface of the non-absorbent fibers so that they collect moisture on their surfaces. Wide weave cotton will let particles through. We shouldn't have to figure this out on our own. Duke is in North Carolina, the heart of the textile industry Duke has a materials science program. A somewhat famous inventor and polymer expert, Joe Desimone, is right down the road at UNC. Just surprising that they didn't go farther. It's all right there to do some really important work. The authors of the paper did the bare minimum to shine a light on their patent application, then bailed out. The article I just posted is mostly them tying to explain why they didn't do more. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_DeSimone

This is how all scientific presentations end. "More studies are needed" Somebody is digging deeper in to the Duke paper. It's a start. https://www.cnet.com/health/do-neck-gaiters-spread-coronavirus-more-easily-not-exactly/

Over the images bump...

Bumping up over the page full of images... Has Dr. Dave pulled that plastic piece out yet? He already drilled a bigger hole in it. You have a better movie memory than I do DWM. I saw all of the talk about fluids and thought of Dr. Strangelove. Couldn't pick the right quote though...

But the insulation effect can't be discarded. You don't know where the thermistor itself is sitting. It might be jammed in to a hole in the bottom of the plastic piece. Insulated. The extra flow could be solely from the larger holes in the can. Sorry. But assumptions are the bane of drawing firm conclusions (that's not from a movie, as far as I know. But I tried to make it sound like is.).

You might be able to glue a stiff backing material on to it to get the pieces together and aligned then repaint the circuits using conductive paint. Looks like a tough project though. https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Conductive-Adhesive-Electronics-Circuit/dp/B086VMYK4Z https://circuitscribe.com/products/10g-brush-screenprinting-conductive-silver-ink-beta