Zed Head

zcardepot might be interested. @zcardepot.com

Here's a shorter thought - Nissan got rid of the mustache bar design when they went to the ZX body. And they modified the parts a few times over the years. It's really just a bad design from the beginning. Simple ideas should be possible for easy improvement.

No offense intended to anyone that has posted on this topic. But some of these things just need to be experienced to be understood, I think/guess. Carving up a piece of solid metal leaves an obviously strong part behind, made of metal. But, if you go out and buy a piece of Steel Stick, or one of the other metal-filled epoxies, and try it out you'll understand how strong it can be, if prepared properly. "Epoxy" is a nebulous word, the variety is large. The same goes for polyurethane. Rubber is used in the automotive industry because it's cheap. If you've ever worked for a company that supplies automotive parts you'll understand how every fraction of a penny matters to the automakers. They'll spend hundreds of thousands on engineering staff to design a part made from the cheapest materials. Because the volume of parts is so high. Making rubber parts cost quite a bit in tooling also. Rubber parts are not poured, they are formed via pressure from rubber sheet or other solid form, and cured using heat. I don't think that anyone is going to reproduce the rubber parts, in rubber. I'm just posting options. But nobody can really discount them off-hand without taking a closer look. When I was messing with my mustache bar I bought some big rubber washers from the local hardware store and stacked them up to take up the space that the worn out scalloped washer used to fill. AK260 could try that instead of carving up a PU bushing. There are endless ways to get the big old chunk of mustache bar steel to stop moving around, clunking, but still avoid transmitting sound.

Here's a biased article from a company that makes PU products. http://harknessindustries.com/rubber-polyurethane/#:~:text=Polyurethane has higher abrasion%2C cut,has better load bearing capacity.&text=Finally%2C polyurethane looks better than,better than its rubber counterpart.

I think that the commercially available replacements bushings were all made from a hard (high durometer) PU just because it was easy and cheap. Probably chosen for a single application like the smaller front control arm bushings then they just started looking around for any rubber part that could be replaced, using the same material. You can get PU in super-soft to brick hard. An 80A would be pretty soft but firm. PU's are very versatile, you can't discount all PU's because somebody in the past used them for the wrong purpose. You just have to pick the right one. https://www.polyglobal.co.uk/a-guide-to-shore-hardness/#:~:text=Polyurethanes are most commonly used,maintain their profile under pressure.

Here's a start along the lines of what CO has been suggesting, the google search below. It might be distasteful to many, because it seems "hacky," but a person could fill the void of an undersized bushing with metal-filled "space-age" epoxy (AKA JB Weld) and probably have a nice solid bushing assembly. https://www.google.com/search?q=motor+mounts (browse the images) https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick https://www.jbweld.com/products

I can't remember who it is (anybody?) that is reproducing the small rubber parts but he would probably have the experience to make an attempt at it. Here's another good link. Understanding how to create a good mold, following instructions, and knowing what can screw things up (moisture, contaminants, etc.) are the key. https://www.fibreglast.com/product/introduction-to-urethane-casting-resins/Learning_Center

Is that the same car? Bumpers, wheels, side trim, and dent look different. Still, both look good. Thanks for answering the 5 speed question.

You could pour your own. https://itwperformancepolymers.com/products/devcon (type urethane in to the search box) https://www.flexsealproducts.com/

I bet if you looked at things like the brakes shoes and pads and rotors and wheel bearings and general grease buildup on the diff and axles you could feel better about a guess. The talk about rust and mileage is kind of overlooking the replacement cost of those interior parts. You could probably put a list together and price each part individually and $8,000 would seem like a good deal. I kept a list of my costs just to get an old 76 in decent shape and I was over $5,000 pretty quick. $50, $200 there....it adds up.

This is the one that should be connected to pin 13.

Weird though, that it's not where it says it is. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/10-tech-articles/

There's this -

Yes, if the water temperature sensor is disconnected the ECU will supply maximum extra fuel. That's probably why yours is running so rich. If it doesn't run when it's connected it might be because it is shorted out, making the mixture as lean as possible. Or because you have a large vacuum leak, maybe through the PCV system. People often mess around for weeks or months trying to avoid doing the tests. But there's a reason that Nissan created a completely separate book, very detailed, with instructions, illustrated, covering all of the years from 1975 through 1980, and published it.

Did you do this test yet? Below. And check the vacuum line to the FPR for fuel. It might have a blown diaphragm.

He doesn't want much for it. I assume that he wants it delivered though. "I’m looking to trade for a full-dresser. Let me know what you have."

At least things are more clear now. People know where to go if they want to show how brave they are.

More details about the car would be good. The obvious thing is a damaged tachometer though. Some sort of internal short.

Here's the "washer" with the two hole sizes. Nissans's drawing is terrible. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/30 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/31

Not sure that is correct. Part #29 is the bushing with the sleeve. It shows up to 6/71 where there is a change, then through all of the following Z's. (Sorry for the big space, there's an ad stuck in the quote and I can't delete it.) p.s. the early 240Z's had the solid rubber coated "washer", the scalloped ones came later. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/29

People have been searching for old stock bushings for years. Not much luck. eBay is probably your best bet and they'll probably be expensive. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/29 https://www.google.com/search?q=55476-N4300&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=55476-N4300&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

The standard poly bushings tend to be too tight anyway, being compressed and passing diff noise in to the cabin. They made them too thick, or the sleeve too short. That missing flange on the shell of your old bushing might actually help create a small air gap when the bar is installed. Not really clear what you mean by "fit". Are you saying that you can't get the PU bushing past the ragged edges of the old metal shell? You might just take a hammer and spread the hole out so you can get the PU in there. Put everything together including the inner metal sleeve and see how things will end up. Don't overlook that the outer washers are actually torqued down on the sleeve, not the PU when the bar is installed. If the sleeve is wider than the PU parts by just a bit that will create an air gap that will block diff noise. None of that area back there is precision work. Don't sweat small problems, you can jam things together as long as the nuts can torque down on the stud properly.

I have not heard of the two transmissions being of different length. Have you measured them to be sure that they are of different lengths? I'm saying that I thought that the transmissions were of the same length, so changing transmission should not be a problem. Only one part number is shown for the 240Z's up until they changed propeller shafts because of the differential placement. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft