Zed Head

That's normal, the cigarette lighter has constant power. The LED probably draws less current than the clock, although I think that chargers draw extra even if they're not charging. It's actually a distinct internet discussion, about chargers. You could put a good meter on your battery to see if voltage changes when it's unplugged or even measure amp draw, if you really wanted to get in to it. Probably not a big deal, I'd guess.

It will probably work fine, the electronics aren't going to age in just a few years. But, apparently, you need to be aware of key position. If you're working on electrical problems, maybe disconnect the coil. That will stop the power through the module that overheats them. Good luck. You might find your distributor advance curves in this thread. It should really be in the Knowledge Base, it's hard to find. @Mike

Did you try a plastic mallet or a block of wood? I think that the parts have some taper and it's meant to be a press fit. Very crude, just get it started and pound it in until it's tight. I think that it might be described in Monroe's How to Rebuild book. Did you install the screen/mesh on the inside of the block that covers that hole?

If I was using an Ignitor I'd just run the stock system. Stock coil and a ballast resistor. It will be easier on the Ignitor and give the same performance as stock. The ignitor removes the need to maintain points but doesn't do much else. It's about like the early electronic ignitions for the 280Z's. If you use a performance coil, with lower resistance, for hotter spark, the odds of burning up the Ignitor increase. Today's Pertronix doesn't seem to last as long as yesterday's, There are stories of sudden failure.

I don't think that anyone knows what's up with that valve cover. How many valve covers get replaced on these cars? They don't get dented like steel covers, and the paint doesn't get chipped 'cause they're not painted. If it is real, how many have been sold? Probably not many at all. It might be real, it might be fake, Frankenstein might have gotten ripped off, but it still looks right so will probably get some points in a car show. Maybe he just overpaid.

Somebody used silver paint. That is not a clear coat or typical protective finish. I have no idea what Aitoku does or did but your after sale replacement cover has silver paint on it, by your description/ Maybe Aitoku was given the contract to produce replacement covers and that's how they did theirs. Painted them silver. So, in car show terms it's not "factory" so you'll get dinged. In historical terms it might be a bona fide replacement valve cover, part of the complete history of the cars. But you have to destroy the Aitoku history to win your car show points. Seems ironic.

Depends on if it's an Ignitor or an Ignitor II. Ignitor II has adaptive dwell so should produce more spark energy with a lower resistance coil. The actual specs on the Pertornix products are hard to find through. They don't really describe advantages, I think they rely on their name for the most part. If it's an Ignitor II you can run a coil as low as 0.45 ohms., no ballast. https://pertronixbrands.com/search?q=datsun&dFR[vendor][0]=Pertronix+Ignition&hFR[named_tags.level_1][0]=Electronic+Ignition+Conversions

It's a dying skill but rotors can be "turned' on a machine to give a new braking surface. It's actually cheaper than buying new rotors. Find an older auto shop, or try a NAPA. Out in Sunriver there's probably a bunch of places that do it.

I like to see the history of things myself. I probably would have set the unique valve cover on a shelf or brought it to the shows and found a different cover to put on the show car engine. You have a one of a kind valve cover, but there's going to be a bunch of identical lookiing cars at the show. That's the thing about the shows, everyone's trying to make their cars look identical. No offense. I'd put those labels under glass so you can show them.

If the valve cover is NOS why would it have a different finish than the ones on a car? Nobody is saying that the covers on the car have paint on them, are they. There must be other replacement valve covers out there from Aitoku. Nobody has one? The original question was - "did I get ripped off?". Seems like you have to choose between making a replacement part look it came on the car, or keeping the history of the replacement part intact because it has its own interesting history. Are the stickers still on it? If not, it probably doesn't matter. Wipe that paint off and replicate. http://www.aitoku.co.jp/e-aitoku/aitoku.html

Seems like @Carl Beck would have some thoughts.

It starts with 246's post, wasn't sure. 246's link doesn't go to the eBay page anymore either. I read the whole thread and nobody actually mentioned paint. 246 showed some paint and a painted cover. He seems to imply that it might be painted. It looks painted. But I don't think anyone ever really addressed the question. They got off on to judging issues. You probably want to stop using the lacquer thinner though. Interesting puzzle.

Your link doesn't go to a valve cover ebay page, just a "valve cover" search ebay page. Not clear what you're talking about. Edit - actually I see from my post that there is a "word skimmer" linking to ebay on the site. So, even more "not clear". Basically you're asking if any Nissan valve covers came painted from the factory..

That's sound like you have a float needle stuck off the seat. That can often be fixed by tapping on the float bowl, believe it or not. Give it some sharp raps with a solid object to vibrate the float and needle valve. When the bowl goes dry the float ends up in a spot it doesn't normally see, hanging down in the bowl. It gets stuck. I even found a video, I'm sure that there are more. It's a common problem. This guy talks too much, you can go directly to 1:30 to see the precision method in action. The concept is the same for any carb with floats and needle valves.

This would work in slide-hammer fashion also.

...

Mike, I'm just having fun with Google AdSense. Because it makes no sense. Their algorithm is messed up, probably wasting Googlebits of bandwidth on useless promotion. That's why it's funny and fun to play with. I'm not logged in to Hybridz and it just toggles between Cuup and springs and Windex. Hilarious!!!! I know how to get rid of the ads and report the ads a "Inappropriate", etc. That's why I'm "chit-chatting".

Very deep... Maybe DF and DB. Drive Forward, Drive Backward. Or Devoe mode - GF, MA. F is too easy.

Reading the best of the script is almost better than watching the movie.

I tried "Animal Farm" and still got Cuup... “All animals are equal, but some animals are more equal than others.”― George Orwell, Animal Farm “Weak or strong, clever or simple, we are all brothers.”― George Orwell, Animal Farm https://www.goodreads.com/quotes/tag/animal-farm

You could check the wipe pattern. If it's the same you're probably fine. If it's off, it might howl.

You might be on the exhaust stroke. TDC happens twice per full combustion sequence. Rotate the crankshaft one full rotation and the rotor will be on the opposite side.

Here's Nissan's procedure for the rear wheel bearing. At those torque values things are probably deflecting and maybe affecting end play. But what does a person do if they can't hit both numbers/ranges? The preload is an exact number also.

Why did you remove the pinion nut? Might guide your path forward. They're whiny even with everything just right. Probably won't be able to tell. It's not going to destroy it just make it noisy. Nissan has several areas where they give two specs. and they probably cannot both be met at times. Like in wheel bearings they spec. both end play and rotation resistance/preload but don't tell how to adjust if the resistance is not met. They do the same here. A torque value and a preload but how do you adjust one without affecting the other. It's nonsense.

New cylinders can be bad out of the box. Pull the dust boot off of the slave cylinder and see if there's fluid in it. There should not be, it should be dry. p.s. how did you bleed the system? Maybe you didn't get all of the air out.