Zed Head

Here's Nissan's procedure for the rear wheel bearing. At those torque values things are probably deflecting and maybe affecting end play. But what does a person do if they can't hit both numbers/ranges? The preload is an exact number also.

Why did you remove the pinion nut? Might guide your path forward. They're whiny even with everything just right. Probably won't be able to tell. It's not going to destroy it just make it noisy. Nissan has several areas where they give two specs. and they probably cannot both be met at times. Like in wheel bearings they spec. both end play and rotation resistance/preload but don't tell how to adjust if the resistance is not met. They do the same here. A torque value and a preload but how do you adjust one without affecting the other. It's nonsense.

New cylinders can be bad out of the box. Pull the dust boot off of the slave cylinder and see if there's fluid in it. There should not be, it should be dry. p.s. how did you bleed the system? Maybe you didn't get all of the air out.

If he had a points distributor and the electronic system quit working, why not? A spark is a spark. Electronic can be a better spark but the first systems just made the same quality spark in a different manner. Brand new would be bright white. Those both look like they've been in a working combustion chamber. Sometime you can grab the belts and turn the crankshaft. Squeeze them tight on a pulley so they grab. If you have an extra pulley on the damper you can take a spare belt and make a handle out of it. A timing light would answer a lot of questions for you. But trying new workarounds is fun too.

I bought the stud kit from MSA and it came with 13mm nuts on the 8mm studs. Very annoying. Nut size does not determine stud size. (I know that sounds weird.) Forgot to say that maybe the torque values are determine based on gasket crush, not the usual ultimate clamping force. Determined by Nissan, not by the torque tables.

Recycled the page a few times and it toggled between springs and cuups, then this. Springs, bras and windex. Who is the customer? I'll stop now.

"Farm animals". Unexpected result. I don't know what's happening.

Now I typed "automotive springs" in to Google and got a new ad. It's scary.

It's (they're?) back. It was gone, but I tried an experiment. I typed "boob" in to Google. Now it's back. I think I'm learning how to control the interweb.

Since you just put in a new cam and rocker arms and they survived the initial startup, apparently, it doesn't seem like you can do much more to be safe. Seems like it's time to just run it and hope. Good luck.

I saw it on Hybridz also. I think it might be me. It happened right after I cleared my search history though. Maybe it's a default starting point for the world of internet.

If they don't extend off of the edge of the pad then they should be good. Hopefully the pads don't have too much wear, no bumps or grooves from past wear to cause problems. You're in one of those situations where it's hard to tell how far to go. People have replaced everything with brand new and wiped a cam lobe. Others have not paid much attention and used their old parts and come out okay. I'm going to guess that it will run fine. But, there's really no way to guarantee. What did you mean by "leveling"? And how/why did you decide to shim the cam(?) towers? Did you have the head shaved" Curious.

I don't think that he has checked the timing yet, or tried adjusting it. It is very close to the very first thing that is done when starting an engine that has been apart and reassembled. Engines are all about timing. I'm always happy to offer an alternative path for people who don't want to try the well-worn one. He'll have to check the timing eventually. In the meantime...carbs.

I'm not an SU expert but I know that intake vacuum controls the position of the piston in the carb that controls the amount of fuel allowed in to the air flow. So your problem is probably related to what happens from start to engine running. The piston is in one spot at start, its resting position, with zero intake vacuum then moves, or is supposed to move, as intake vacuum develops. The new position causes the engine to spit and die, or the piston is stuck and doesn't move and this causes the engine to spit and die. I'd focus on making sure the pistons are moving like they should, with correct oil in the damper. Seems like you're getting a "lean" kickback, which implies that the carb pistons aren't moving, or aren't moving fast enough, which would keep the needle low in the jet making things lean. Engine starts, goes lean, kicks and dies. This is from my latest understanding of SU's, developed as I read your post and also pondered what little else I know about them. The throttle blade controls the airflow, the piston position controls the fuel mixture. The kickback sounds lean.

Isn't that the same video from Hybridz? Did you do the stuff that was suggested over there?

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Bultaco. Never had one. Rode one once, a 250. Just like seeing the name in print. Spanish made, hard to believe. I did a Google and learned something. https://newatlas.com/bultaco-rapitan-sport-resurrected/32117/

Posting to remove the awkwardness! There is a web site though. Our Mission Boobs are complicated.

Just wanted to share. Seems like multiple wrongness but I can't put my finger on what exactly. This is a real ad on the site.

Did you check the numbers? Just curious. You might fall in to the trap of thinking that the PO used all correct parts. @jitenshakun

At the end of all of the discussion I don't think that anyone is going to pay more for a "Black Pearl". The car salesmen will use anything to promote a car. You might even find Jon Voight's pencil in the glove box.

Some of the transmissions we've seen on the site have been incredibly damaged inside. Often the owner didn't even know until they changed the fluid and found a collection of metal parts on the magnet. A failed transmission is almost unheard of. They die very very slowly.

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