Zed Head

Contact with the sleeve is in the center of the bearing. The center contact area will be the same even flipped. Only 240mm flywheels are available. It's been that way for a long time. You'll still be wondering about sleeve/collar height. Might be worthwhile to look around for a complete kit. Rockauto might not have all of the possibilities. Here's a good one. I've noticed that Summit seems to be upping their game. Shows the sleeve as part of the package. Luk is a pretty good brand. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-06-031?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAq4KuBhA6EiwArMAw1A_fRkHgUpSEptzfiK9DwA4Dle70u3LwI0evTrz_vA_Prnej23vdxxoCTYAQAvD_BwE#overview

I'd guess the flywheel is fine. Get the locating dowels (if they're not broken off) and tap them in. They're important. I had a Perfection clutch and it chattered and had high pedal pressure. Did not like it. But it looks like it's the only one that comes with the sleeve, on Rockauto. Looks like your travails might just be starting. You can buy the sleeves separately but without a measurement you don't know which one you need. You could probably just replace the disc with an organic one and might be fine. Or just throw it all together and hope. Choices!

p.s. I only see one locating pin on the flywheel. To locate/center the pressure plate. Am I missing some? There should be three, I believe.

Run your fingernail over the transition from the machining marks to the smooth wear surface. See if there's a ridge. The flywheel has seen some use. You can also put a straightedge on the surface and shine a light fror the other side to see if there's wear. A machine shop could regrind it for less than a new flywheel. Might be worth doing if it's a 225mm. One downside to the 240mm is it's heavier. Makes the engine slow to respond. Some guys like the lightweight flywheels, they make the engine peppier. At least you know more about what you have now. Might have avoided some aggravation. Don't forget to check your pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. Might as well replace it, they're cheap and it's easy to do.

I don't see yours on their site but there are examples of others. https://allclutchsystem.com/shop/ols/categories/nissan?page=1&sortOption=ascend_by_price

That's a performance clutch disc. Puck-style, probably ceramic, not Nissan. Typically they have high pedal pressure and a narrow engagement range. Grabby. The pressure plate has hot spots on it too, not good for smooth engagement either. Also, sometimes a sign that it was grabby. More slippage required to get going. You cam measure the diameter of the friction surface to see if you have an 8 3/4" or 9 1/2" (225mm or 240mm) flywheel. The flywheel has turning marks on it, so it might be fine. Clean it up a little and see hwo it looks. It has rust but that's not a big deal. I think that part number is internal to the clutch company and might not show that it's a 240SX clutch. Best to measure. You're at the gambling stage now. Odds are it will work but might not be fun to drive. Anyway, somebody has definitely been there, with performance plans. Who knows if they got things right. Good luck.

If you get in to Account Settngs you can add some details about your car. Signature.

It's not overkill, just a sign that somebody's been in there. You never know what a PO has done. Could be a 2+2 engine. They came with the 240mm clutches.

I would just pop that pressure plate off and check out the flywheel surface, the disc, and the pilot bearing. If they look new, use them. If theyre worn, replace. Nothing worse than a chattery clutch.

Click on the part number of one of these discs and you'll see all of the vehicles it will fit. That would be the big 2+2 or turbo clutch. 240mm. So, probably not the stock flywheel either. Somebody "went big". Not stock 240Z parts. Is it the stock L24? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1981,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1430312,transmission-manual,clutch+friction+disc,10605

That part number is for the clutch disc, not the pressure plate. Any difference would be in size and spline count. I'd still take those measurements. The fork wear could be from before or it could be a sign of a bad angle. The measurments will tell you if the package of parts will work right with the transmission. The pivot fork on the transmission is the same distance relative to the engine, across all engine sizes and transmissions, except the very early 240Z's, I think (the monkey motion 4 speeds might be different.). Only the pressure plate and sleeve sizes will change across the various models of vehicle. If you have the room and time, nothing wrong with trying things out, if you're fine with dropping the transmission again. I've had a transmission in but back out in a few dyas when I found out it had a leak. Kind of a pain but not terrible.

I would definitely take some measurements before buying new parts. Your throwout bearing sleeve is the short one used for the tall 240Z pressure plates. But your pressure plate is definitely not a stock Nissan pressure plate. If you use a short sleeve on a short pressure plate you'll have problems. If you have to buy a new sleeve it might come with a bearing already installed.

That is different but there are many ways to make a bearing. Kind of looks like the clutch kit maker spec'ed their own bearing. Do you know who made the pressure plate? Any markings? Most do not come in red. Looks "performance". Before you put it back together you should take some measurements. Also, the contact points on your clutch fork look kind of shiny. Are they worn? The topic of measuring before installing comes up often. Here's one thread with a link to more. And here's a Rockauto picture of a bearing that looks kind of like years. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6085047&cc=1209226&pt=1968

The movie didn't do quite as well as Bullitt. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vanilla_Sky

Here's an odd one. I wouldn't have seen if I didn't have BAT notifying me about GTO listings. I was expecting the Pontiac type. It's a 1976 280Z. Unfortunately, it looks like the original parts weren't kept so it could be converted back. Touched by Tom Cruise!!! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/vanilla-sky-ferrari-250-gto-replica/

I have a friend who had that a few months ago. Middle of the night, lives alone, had to call 911. Scared her. Same scenario as yours but they didn't have to shock her. They waited it out. She had been on a cocktail of pharmas beforehand. Eventually they reduced the dosage of one of them and say she's okay now. But thay can't really say what caused it. They did all of the heart rate monitoring and everything and found nothing. I thnk it was the pharmas. p.s. I just coined the word "pharmas" because I'm lazy. Maybe it's already out there...

No telling. If it runs well, what would you change/fix? There's nothing to fix now. p.s. next time it acts up watch the tachometer needle. It's a good way to see if it's a spark problem or a fuel problem. . .

How about bad fuel? Or water in the tank? It happens. https://ktla.com/news/california/were-californians-filling-up-on-bad-gas-for-years/

Arrhythmia or heart attack? You are right about USA healthcare. Medical professionals don't get paid to keep people healthy. They get paid to do "stuff". Healthy people are actually bad for business. How bad were your previous habits and how unhealthy were you? I often wonder where I'm at on the heart-health scale. You can't really tell until something happens. I have a blend of good habits and bad habits. I like to think they even out.

Is it running well now? Intermittent problems are hard to diagnose. You have to catch them in the act. An ECU going bad or maybe an ignition module might cause rough-running. How does it drive now? If it's running right but the gauge numbers are off maybe it's just an AFR gauge problem. Turbo engines can get damaged by running lean but an NA engine won't be hurt. It will just run like crap. I'd focus on how the engine runs and ignore the gauge.

Do you know what fuel pressure was? Could be something simple like a clogged fuel pickup tube in the tank.

The hot start issue is very common. But it usually clears up within a minute and the engine runs normally. Your plugs are too new to tell much.

Looks like it does. Looks like a ZX alternator. The P terminal is a sign, plus the missing plastic vents on the back. ZX - internal https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37579&cc=1209293&pt=2412&jsn=389 1976 280Z - external https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37404&cc=1209226&pt=2412&jsn=448

Sorry, I wasn't pointing at SimplePart. I don't know how the information gets put in, I thought it would be Courtesy Nissan doing it. Just showing some not-quite-right stuff. The idea is great. It works. Click, click, click, there's what I was looking for. Good luck. Carry on.

Cool! The platform looks great but I assume that it can only show things according to how the people using it put in the data. It needs some work. They're showing AT parts on the MT page. I doubt that they fit... (I had a 95 Pathfinder).