Zed Head

2904, matching numbers, left hand drive - easy $100,000, coming home to the States! Thank you Google Translate - Description A rare Datsun 240Z Series 1 from 1970 for restoration - With the original L24 engine and a manual gearbox - In the original color Kilimanjaro White (color code 904) in combination with a light blue interior - Very early chassis number produced in April 1970; number 2904 produced - This Datsun is registered 1970, so also extremely suitable for historic rally driving or participation in historic events - The car has all the correct features of an early Series 1 such as the ventilation openings in the tailgate, the correct fuel flap, the early emblems and logos and the correct valve cover – Car was just discovered in a shed in California; very original car that has stood still for decades - Even still has the original Datsun 240Z radio and the original seats - It has never been welded or worked on and 80% of the car still has the first original paint - The car comes from California but has some rust, especially the spare wheel well and the inside of the tailgate; another spare wheel well is included - The floors and suspension points are good and solid - The engine turns by hand and is not fixed; some history is also present – USA import; all EU taxes have been paid and the car is in our showroom in the Netherlands - Viewing by appointment only - Delivery of the car is possible - 50 additional photos of this Datsun and other Datsun Z Series can be seen on the website; www.ZsportscarZ.nl Always several Datsuns 240Z / 260Z and 280Z in stock in the Netherlands. We only sell original and untouched Datsun Z Series! www.ZsportscarZ.nl . . .

You might find something in the FSM. I'd guess that the Canada model runs richer at certain air flow and RPM ranges since the emissions regs were less stringent. The Fed model would be lean for the catalytic converter. Might be described in the Emissions chapter. I see that Rockauto put the AFM's in Exhaust & Emission instead of Fuel & Air. Odd, but might tell something. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209316,exhaust+&+emission,mass+air+flow+(maf)+sensor,5128

These are strange times. The Z432 is at a quarter millon bid with nine days to go. The top bidder has only been in the "game" since Feb 2021. He bumped it 120,000, from 130,000. Kind of scary. https://bringatrailer.com/member/ernestriggen/

Where's the throttle blip?! You were right there, reach out and do it! Looks good. Can't remember what's under that "distributor" cap.

I happen to have the 1986 200SX manual. It shows the older style shifter. And similar ratios. I had wondered if there was a four cylinder out there that might use it. Good luck.

P.s. There are also truck versions out there. They differ in overall length. You might measure yours and put the number out here.

I found an old picture of an 83 280ZX front case next to a 1985 300ZX case. The V6 starter position is actually lower not higher. Not sure what's going on with the FSM pictures above. A picture from the front of the bolt pattern and drain slot might help ID it.

The starter position seems high. I think that might be for a V6, like a 300ZX. Edit - The shifter would be different though. Not sure what you have there. People do swap front cases, 280ZX front case on 300ZX gear set, after some relatively minor modifications. But it will only bolt to an L6 in the wrong, tilted, orientation. Here's an 83 280ZX followed by the 88 300ZX. Notice how smooth the case is also.

Maybe the chain tensioner is loose and it takes a few revolutions to pump up.

Canada? https://parts.nissan.ca/p/Nissan__/Washer-Adjust--Drive-Pinion-Washer-Adjusting-DRVE/89625148/38154-P6034.html

Or repurpose from a similar application. https://justdifferentials.com/shop-by-category/components/shims.html

If you have the Nissan Subaru part number you might look at other applications and hit the wrecking yard.

You might trying to talk to the source. Amazon is not known for accuracy in their product descriptions. They say that they know stuff. https://www.smallpartsinc.com/contact/ https://www.smallpartsinc.com/about-the-company/ “Excellence & Service with Integrity” Being an excellent metal stampings provider isn’t about what equipment we have, it is about what we know, and how we conduct our business. Striving to live up to our organizational values above translates into value for our customers

It's been a long time since I've thought about changing browsers. The Google folks are probably getting complacent. Now I have both open at the same time. Firefox for forum writing stuff, Chrome mainly because the Bookmark import feature sucks across all browsers. If I could import Bookmarks in the same format I have them saved on Chrome I'd probably just switch. I'm in Firefox and just corrected two misspelled words, make that three, that were highlighted. Yay Firefox. Seems to have better inherent ad-blocking too.

Tseting in Firefox. Looks like a Chrome broswer problem. Misspellings are highlighted here.

Anybody out there know why spell check would stop working on the site? Seems to have happened right after a Windows update. It's checked as on in Settings but doesn't work on any forum type web sites. Still works in Outlook email though.

Interesting low number 1970 on BaT. The seller is not really pushing the uniqueness angle. He says $10,000 reserve, but BaT says No Reserve. He might get it anyway, if a collector/restorer gets interested. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-115/

The gasoline does not soak in to the metal. If you fill the tank with water once and empty it it will be purged of all flammable material. Gasoline is partially soluble in water, so any crevices, cracks, or rusty spots will be extracted of their tiny amount residual liquid gasoline. Dry ice would work well too, after all of the liquid gasoline is removed. If there is liquid left in the tank the CO2 will push out the vapors but the liquid will revaporize once the CO2 is gone. One reason that CO2 works well also is becuase it displaces the oxygen. No oxygen, no flame. But CO2 is also dangerous for that reason. Closed spaces and all that, plus the possibility of freeze-burns. Water is cheap, safe, and easy. The hardest part is getting the insides dried out afterward. I'd just use water. CO2 is great for underground tanks because they're big and you'd have to pump out the water if you used it. But a Z tank can be tossed around pretty easy. Why is my spell-check not working anymore... p.s. I've taken some classes where these types of subjects were studied.

More heat? Make sure the heat is focused on the parts that need to expand. The casting that holds the outer race or the bearing inner race. Not the axle shaft. Looking at the drawing, a torch flame on the casting/housing is your best bet. Inner and outer so the bearing races get hot too. If the grease isn't smoking there's room for more heat.

It's a no reserve have fun big bumper last year 280Z driver. Not a 71 collector model restoration worthy investement. Don't get too carried away in the critiques. It's for the guy who wants a drivable hobby car. Or a quick flip. Buy it, get it running, keep another Z on the streets, make a few bucks.

Here's a good basic 280Z for somebody that wants to get in to the Z world and drive one without spending too much. Lots of nickels and dimes waiting to be spent but it should be pretty easy to get back in to good running shape. Might even make a good "will it run and drive XX miles" video. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-158/

Measurement of the inside diameter and pictures of the surfaces will tell the story. There's a limit, it's marked on the drum itself. Borrowed this from an eBay ad. He wants a lot but didn't provide the critical information. A shop won't turn a drum beyond the limit.

I actually did check all of the washer part numbers on the internet. None of them came up as the "D" washer shape. Who knows. Maybe they were only "D" on the assembly line, and normal as a replacement part https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-washer~08915-43610.html

I'm really just here for the puzzle. Can't find them on carpartsmanual but they do seem to be a thing. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-112/

Where would a "D" washer be used on a fender? I didn't even know what one was so I got on the Google. And there are several shapes/types that are apparently called D washers. Maybe add some description? https://www.google.com/search?q=d+washer