Zed Head

And don't forget to run the clutch disc up and down the main shaft to be sure it moves freely.

Might as well pile on with more stuff. How does the nose look, where the throwout bearing rides? They do wear, but you have the cast iron cover so it's probably fine.

If you have a new shaft seal installed then just clean surfaces and a new gasket should do it. Here's an odd thing I ran across once though - the clutch fork pivot pin threads leaked fluid. It took me a while to figure out the fluid ran down the fork and off the end of it to the ground. A weird leak. If you had that out, or even if you didn't, I would use some thread sealer on the threads. The lock washer is not a sealing washer. Also, don't forget the countershaft bearing shim.

I was just properly defining the words. You can't have a good debate if people use the wrong words.

Thanks for the follow-up. These weird problems need examples. Good luck with the project, you're at the right Z forum.

I discovered this exact problem on a completely stock 1978 parts car. It would not actuate the injectors if the tachometer was disconnected. Apparently, some 280Z's will and some won't. I confirmed it a few different times on the 78 and my 1976 car. You'll find people that say theirs starts just fine without the tach and others like me who say it won't. After I switched to a different ignition system it didn't matter if the tach was connected or not it always started. So it seems like the ECU is very sensitive to what's happening on Pin 1. Short answer - you're probably right and it will probably start right up if you connect the tachometer. It's probably not the ECU. You did all of the right testing too. Good luck. . . .

Yes. As stated.

If the goal is to just get a few seconds of power to the pump when the key is turned on you could tap in to the pump power wire anywhere. It runs down the outside of the floor under the carpet on the passenger side on the 76's. You could even backprobe the plug, there's a connection there. That's what I did to power the brake warning check lamp relay.

Here's some expensive examples. Is the goal cheap, effective, or both? https://www.delcity.net/productsearch?search=time+delay+relay&x=0&y=0&it=

I was showing that the 280Z instructions are different. I didn't look at the ZX instructions. Looks a lot more complex.

I was incorrect. Apparently Nissan says the molding is removable separately. I must have seen comments from the internet instead. I'm sure it's much easier with newer still flexible rubber. Here's 1978. "Be careful not to deform the molding". They knew.

I don't know much about it, but I do remember painfully prying out my metal trim to try to get under the edge of the rubber seal to seal a leak (it didn't work). Then realizing later, after reading various accounts, that you're supposed to cut the old seal out and the trim comes with it. In other words, the metal trim is only meant to be installed with new rubber. The system is not designed for non-destructive disassembly.

It should. Most do. The old original FPR's are known to leak down. It just takes a little bit of rust at the seat surfaces.

If the AAR closes to the same spot consistently, but idle speed varies, then the problem is not in the AAR. My AAR worked correctly, and idle speed was consistent after warm-up. In the end, I was lucky enough to experience an engine with everything working correctly. But I also went through the phase of looking for alternative solutions. The factory parts will give consistent cold start and warm-up to a properly idling and performing engine, if they are working as they were meant to work.

An AAR that works correctly is pretty satisfying. It just works. Your varying idle speed might be due to one of your other problems, not the AAR. If you apply 12 volts to the AAR pins and it doesn't close completely, it's broke.

A ball valve with a cable would work. It would be, in essence, an idle speed control. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4-in-Brass-Insert-Poly-Ball-Valve-POLYV34/300850934

Check the shipping on that eBay item. $20.

I've not seen that brand name before. Interesting. https://www.ftonline.co/product-category/electrical-parts/voltage-regulators/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/234598216098?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MOJzyVjhShe&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bBzFtXzvTQO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

What brand was the bad one?

The page you linked says the rotor only works with the Stage 4 kit. The Stage 4 kit page says that the calipers are huge. Can't tell what brand they are but that looks like the cause of your problem. Description - Stage 4 drilled, slotted and vented rotor. This rotor is zinc plated to prevent rusting. 10.8 inches in diameter. 22mm thickness. Only work with stage 4 front brake kit. https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/stage-4-front-big-brake-upgrade-kit-240z-260z-280z This brake kit comes with the following parts: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons)

The half-shaft rebuild would involve the ball bearings and their races. I found an older thread about. It should be in the Knowledge Base section. @Mike

You can find the same discussions on Hybridz.org. You're in that theory versus practice conundrum zone. The theory can be correct, but not matter in practice.

Not clear what you're saying, you showed a hole and an o-ring, and implied that hole was meant to be an ORB design. The Protrunerz site doesn't clearly say say it's an ORB hole. You're assuming it's an ORB hole. That's the part that needs defining. Looking at the ORB-8 at the end of the rail it's hard to imagine they'd forget to perform that operation on that hole. But, who knows, maybe that's what happened. I'm just here for the words... I did find some other images though that imply it's supposed to be ORB. But even they look a bit off. Seems like the fitting is not seated. Anyway, there are many ways. Carry on.

My first instinct when I saw the hole was maybe it's a tapered pipe thread. Following up on that, you could easily make it one. They seal just fine with a bit of thread sealant.

Edit - actually I can't tell what the Protunerz site is saying. It's not clear. "6AN orb Fuel gauge port"? See below. Which is it? I don't have much experience with AN threads fittings but the internet says it's a tapered thread flared fitting. The Proturnerz site says that's a 6AN hole, if it's the hole you're using. They mixed ORB with AN. Easy to see a mix-up. Full disclosure - I didn't even know what ORB was until just now. Thank you internet... https://protunerz.com/collections/fuel-rails/products/datsun-l-series-fuel-rail https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread https://hosebox.com/insights/orb-fittings-explained-selection-setup/ CNC Anodized BILLET Fuel Rail with outer ORB-8 Thread, 6AN orb Fuel gauge port /cold start/pressure sensor.