Zed Head

The topic has come up several times over the years. Put the words below in to Google search and a bunch will come up. site:classiczcars.com valve seal replacement

I think that you're going to find a shoe retaining part, or a broken/loose spring inside a drum. The parking (not "E) brake "no longer" works, meaning that it did for a while. Something broke or came loose.

Here's a new offering that might be a fun resto-driver money pit garage project. Probably needs a little bit of work on everything. Has an odd rust pattern. No reserve. California. Gas tank cleaned but says it's not been run since 1991. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-297/

The thread has morphed in to a "1975 has a unique u-joint" topic, in part. It has a different bolt pattern at the diff flange and it appears that it uses a different size u-joint. The 430-10 doesn't work for a 1975 propeller shaft, at least this particular one. He started discussing it in Post #71. Lots of stuff in between.

Some sort of mini car show at the tire shop where the guy pulled the filters after he opened the hood? I see a 67(?) Camaro, a Mustang, and a car that suffered an engine fire in the background.

They should put the specs on their web page. Looks like it's only made to match the Honda Ridgeline from 2006 - 2008, but the page might be incomplete, there might be others. Odd that your 75 is either unique in u-joint size or the other folks that have tried the staked joint repair have a different (wrong?) size in theirs. The back flange is unique so maybe everything is a one-off. https://ujointstores.com/product/tus-11a/

What's the part number of the new injectors? Maybe put the original ones back in. The hose on the injector can be replaced easily. One possibility is valve seals. Maybe they finally gave up the ghost. Gasoline smoke would smell terrible. Rich conditions smell like raw gasoline before the smoking gets bad. If you're not smelling gasoline I'd suspect oil. p.s. if you're sure it's gasoline check your fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragms are known to rupture. Pull the vacuum hose, if it's blown the hose will have liquid fuel in it. The extra fuel would have a bigger effect when the engine is hot.

Probably just me, but what the heck is an AB valve? Anti-backifire? Not seen one on an L6. Are you working on a different engine?

It's the other way Mr. Patcon. More R = more fuel. That's why I asked about the actual numbers. Maybe he has some dirty connections on the coolant temp circuit.

I tried all of the years frm 75 to 78 on my 76 and they all started and ran. The 78 is the only one that caused problems, it died after about 15 minutes. I think it was just a bad ECU though, not the model of ECU. Where did you get the reman? I'd be more inclined to look at other things for a rich conditon, than the ECU. Corroded connections on the coolant temperature sensor for example. You said that things tested well but didn't say if you just did continuity checks or measured actual resistance. Are there any other modifications to the car? Ignition system, tachometer, etc. The ECU uses the pulse on Pin 1 from the coil to determine when to open the injectors. I had a problem where the ECU would not work when the tachometer was removed with the stock igntion. That was on two different cars. But it did work with a different igntion setup later. The ECU seemed sensitive to that Pin 1 voltage.

Good luck with the longer slave cylinder rod. Hope it works well. If you consider the contact points on the fork ends you might be getting close to the edges there. Plus there wil be some "unengineered" loads on the fork itself, especailly the spring clips that hold it to the pivot ball, due to the more extreme angle at full disengagement. Just some thoughts to have in mind if thngs feel odd later on. You're outside of the design envelope but might be just fine. Borrowed some pictures from the internet. Just fun stuff to think about. https://maseraticompound.com/collections/datsun-280zx/products/datsun-280zx-clutch-fork-throw-out-bearing-and-clutch-spring-set

It would be pointless for them to show possible stroke so I assume that what they show is the travel achieved when the pedal is pressed to the floor. I'd remove that boot and take a measurement.

The potential problem is the fork bottoming out on the hole before release. Your picture shows quite a bit of distance. Eurodat has posted the slave cylinder throw before, I think it's shown in the Clutch chapter of the FSM. If you don't have that amount of free space behind your fork that could be a problem.

He'd have to have one made. Everything after 1975 is a staked u-joint so that's a hurdle. Might be able to find a flange with the DAT-110-300ZX pattern. I think that they are actual flanges that he used to sell as part of his V8 conversion kits. Not sure though if they are differential flanges or propeller shaft flanges. I never thought about it much when the web site was active. He quit selling Zcar parts now though. Might be worth calling the guy. You can tell by the web pages that he's more old school than new. Pretty sure that brokenkitty and Johnscars are run by the same guy. Phone: (214) 426-4101 Fax: (214) 426-3116 Email: Help@JohnsCars.com Mailing Address 800 Jaguar Lane Dallas, TX 75226

The 300ZX used a different pinion flange bolt pattern, bigger bolt circle. The picture and specs below are from either Johnscars or brokenkitty, can't remember, but saved on Hybridz. Looks like brokenkitty has left the ZCar world. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar.htm Easiest might be to swap a 280ZX or 280Z pinion flange over. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125392-clarification-of-diff-pinion-flange-dimensions/

I was talking about the distance between the two surfaces. The purpose of the colored clips/snap rings from Nissan, to get the proper play in the joint. Nissan didn't need to worry about those surfaces anymore with the staked joints since the staking is done from the outside. The joint could be loose, or it could be tight. But it can't be adjusted if you only have one snap ring thickness.

Here's an old discussion. Interesting topic when you consider the seven different clip thicknesses Nissan used for getting a precision fit. The kit you get will have only one. Anyway, what can you do. It's an old car.

There's quite a bit around the old internet about converting the staked joints to clipped in. I recall mixed results. Since Nissan wasn't using that inner surface for the clip to seat against it's likely that they did not machine it to a tight tolerance. Just a guess. Might have fit or balance problems. Worth a shot. The switch point seems to be November 74. So it's 1975 model year and on. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft/6

Your propeller shaft (Nissan word) has the wrong bolts. They should be "D" head bolts that seat against the inner yoke surface. You can see the flat in the picture. The bolts are still available, it looks like. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft The rod is called a compression rod. It stops the control arm from moving back on braking. Some people call it the TC rod since it is also in tension under reverse braking. Nissan started staking the propeller shaft u-joints in 1974 I think. When the "big body" came around. You can see the stake impressions in your picture. Just some minor details...

I used to have trouble trying to figure out what the various diagrams were saying. Then I summed it all up as - "any contact mark pattern that does not overlap an edge is good". Basically, if you can see all of the contact point on the face of the tooth, it's fine. Doesn't have to be in the middle. Just has to be off of any edge.

It's been a week. Who knows.

Flag the heck out of it.

Probably any of 4 - 7 but you won't know until you install one and see. Make sure that you use tight bushings, sloppy bushings make close quarters worse. A 1970 car is in that range where people cut and reweld their shifters or trim some of the hole or console. Soak those old bushings in very hot water before trying to remove and install if you're going to try to reuse one on a different shifter. They can get brittle and its worse if they're cold and dry.

The check valve might be stuck. Maybe you can poke it free, if so. On your puddle of gasoline - you got really lucky. I hope that is a detached garage. If not, you almost burned your house down, and killed your dog. People should stare at that picture for a while and imagine. It will be incentive to be cautious and think about consequences. You dodged a disaster. Sorry to be critical but sometimes we forget.

Might help to describe the engine. Carbs, igntion, etc. You've probably mentioned it in the past but searching past posts is work. You could also put some stuff in your Signature. Guessing that the filters are off? (You can see white smoke.) Both carbs puff or just one? One second is not much. Neither is two. One one thousand, two one thousand. Are you sure it's not running longer? How can you see several "few revolutions" in one or two seconds? One more nit-pick - if it's puffing out of a carb or carbs, is that "running smoothly? Hard to grasp what you're describing. Might be a sticking intake valve causing the puffing. You might be able to discern between ignition and fuel with starting fluid on the restart problem.