Zed Head

I think that the Perfection kit I got might have been on the shelf for a while at the local auto parts store. Bought it in 2009. It was actually Zoom by Perfection if I recall right. Odds are it will work fine. Mine only had problems when it got hot. I got on to Summit and found this. Doesn't say Perfection in the title but does in the video. Who knows. They're probably all made at the same place. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-mu47594-1a/make/nissan/model/280z/year/1976

Or, if everything goes dead when you turn the key, it could be a dirty battery terminal.

Then what I wrote applies pretty well. It will be hard to determine is the solenod has an open circuit when it gets hot or if it's sticking. You might try tapping/beating on it when it happens. You said it has voltage. Is your probe on the male terminal itself or on the female wire end when you measure? The female ends get loose and lose contct. Maybe it just needs a good squeeze. .. . .

If you watch the video in his first post you'll see that it's not a typical throwout bearing. In your picture you can see the gap between the part that spins and the part that doesn't. In his you can't see that gap on the back side, it's solid. But the gap is there on the contact side, with the narrow contact surface. And he shows that the bearing spins correctly on the sleeve. It's just an odd bearing. OR maybe it has fallen apart and the actual contact surface is missing. Just thought of that. Maybe it's a broke bearing, installed correctly. This is my new working theory. More broken stuff, to fit with the missing flywheel pins. Notice that the surface you're showing is rounded while his is not. Deosn't really matter much becuase he already said he's getting all new stuff. Just a puzzle.

The solenoid plunger can get stuck in the cylinder. All that is causing it to move is the magnetic field created by the solenoid coil. Take it off and see if something is misaligned. Could also be an open circuit somewhere. Are you saying that you don't even hear a click when you turn the key? Check the mounting bolts for the solenoid. Grab the solenoid and see if it's loose.

The one-six and the Godzilla are similar but not identical. The Godzilla has two wheels, a 24-1 and a single tooth. The one-six apparently only has the 24-1 wheel. And the one-six is a Hall effect, the GRW is VR. You'd need to know what your engine management system can do and what you want it to do to make the right choice.

Edit - my mistake. The Godzilla guy needs to up his advertising game. Those pictures are bad and not everybody will want Barney on their engine.

Just for context, here's an image of the board. If you're thinking mass production then something easily machinable would be good. For one time, you might dull some tools cutting a glass-reinforced material. Stole it from here...

I haven't thought about the aftermarket stuff for a while but I know that on my 2003 Ford engine, the old distributor shaft remnant is used to indicate compression stroke of #1 to the PCM (computer) for sequential injection. That's all it does, it's not involved in precise timing at all. Ford basically cut the top off of a distributor and replaced it with a half moon trigger and a camshaft position sensor. The engine has a crank shaft trigger wheel for ignition timing. And it uses wasted spark. Wasted spark just sends spark to cylinders that are on either exhaust or compression strokes. Doesn't matter, the cylinder that needs it will get it. The other one won't even know. DIYAutotune has a bunch of tech articles and parts. Worth browsing. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/ https://www.diyautotune.com/?s=nissan Ford stuff below. To think about. You can find a bunch on Hybridz and probably DIYAutotune about Ford's EDIS ignition. That's a common wasted spark system that people swap over to.

Flywheel too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-fw-151/make/nissan/model/280z#overview

Contact with the sleeve is in the center of the bearing. The center contact area will be the same even flipped. Only 240mm flywheels are available. It's been that way for a long time. You'll still be wondering about sleeve/collar height. Might be worthwhile to look around for a complete kit. Rockauto might not have all of the possibilities. Here's a good one. I've noticed that Summit seems to be upping their game. Shows the sleeve as part of the package. Luk is a pretty good brand. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-06-031?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAq4KuBhA6EiwArMAw1A_fRkHgUpSEptzfiK9DwA4Dle70u3LwI0evTrz_vA_Prnej23vdxxoCTYAQAvD_BwE#overview

I'd guess the flywheel is fine. Get the locating dowels (if they're not broken off) and tap them in. They're important. I had a Perfection clutch and it chattered and had high pedal pressure. Did not like it. But it looks like it's the only one that comes with the sleeve, on Rockauto. Looks like your travails might just be starting. You can buy the sleeves separately but without a measurement you don't know which one you need. You could probably just replace the disc with an organic one and might be fine. Or just throw it all together and hope. Choices!

p.s. I only see one locating pin on the flywheel. To locate/center the pressure plate. Am I missing some? There should be three, I believe.

Run your fingernail over the transition from the machining marks to the smooth wear surface. See if there's a ridge. The flywheel has seen some use. You can also put a straightedge on the surface and shine a light fror the other side to see if there's wear. A machine shop could regrind it for less than a new flywheel. Might be worth doing if it's a 225mm. One downside to the 240mm is it's heavier. Makes the engine slow to respond. Some guys like the lightweight flywheels, they make the engine peppier. At least you know more about what you have now. Might have avoided some aggravation. Don't forget to check your pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. Might as well replace it, they're cheap and it's easy to do.

I don't see yours on their site but there are examples of others. https://allclutchsystem.com/shop/ols/categories/nissan?page=1&sortOption=ascend_by_price

That's a performance clutch disc. Puck-style, probably ceramic, not Nissan. Typically they have high pedal pressure and a narrow engagement range. Grabby. The pressure plate has hot spots on it too, not good for smooth engagement either. Also, sometimes a sign that it was grabby. More slippage required to get going. You cam measure the diameter of the friction surface to see if you have an 8 3/4" or 9 1/2" (225mm or 240mm) flywheel. The flywheel has turning marks on it, so it might be fine. Clean it up a little and see hwo it looks. It has rust but that's not a big deal. I think that part number is internal to the clutch company and might not show that it's a 240SX clutch. Best to measure. You're at the gambling stage now. Odds are it will work but might not be fun to drive. Anyway, somebody has definitely been there, with performance plans. Who knows if they got things right. Good luck.

If you get in to Account Settngs you can add some details about your car. Signature.

It's not overkill, just a sign that somebody's been in there. You never know what a PO has done. Could be a 2+2 engine. They came with the 240mm clutches.

I would just pop that pressure plate off and check out the flywheel surface, the disc, and the pilot bearing. If they look new, use them. If theyre worn, replace. Nothing worse than a chattery clutch.

Click on the part number of one of these discs and you'll see all of the vehicles it will fit. That would be the big 2+2 or turbo clutch. 240mm. So, probably not the stock flywheel either. Somebody "went big". Not stock 240Z parts. Is it the stock L24? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1981,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1430312,transmission-manual,clutch+friction+disc,10605

That part number is for the clutch disc, not the pressure plate. Any difference would be in size and spline count. I'd still take those measurements. The fork wear could be from before or it could be a sign of a bad angle. The measurments will tell you if the package of parts will work right with the transmission. The pivot fork on the transmission is the same distance relative to the engine, across all engine sizes and transmissions, except the very early 240Z's, I think (the monkey motion 4 speeds might be different.). Only the pressure plate and sleeve sizes will change across the various models of vehicle. If you have the room and time, nothing wrong with trying things out, if you're fine with dropping the transmission again. I've had a transmission in but back out in a few dyas when I found out it had a leak. Kind of a pain but not terrible.

I would definitely take some measurements before buying new parts. Your throwout bearing sleeve is the short one used for the tall 240Z pressure plates. But your pressure plate is definitely not a stock Nissan pressure plate. If you use a short sleeve on a short pressure plate you'll have problems. If you have to buy a new sleeve it might come with a bearing already installed.

That is different but there are many ways to make a bearing. Kind of looks like the clutch kit maker spec'ed their own bearing. Do you know who made the pressure plate? Any markings? Most do not come in red. Looks "performance". Before you put it back together you should take some measurements. Also, the contact points on your clutch fork look kind of shiny. Are they worn? The topic of measuring before installing comes up often. Here's one thread with a link to more. And here's a Rockauto picture of a bearing that looks kind of like years. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6085047&cc=1209226&pt=1968

The movie didn't do quite as well as Bullitt. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vanilla_Sky

Here's an odd one. I wouldn't have seen if I didn't have BAT notifying me about GTO listings. I was expecting the Pontiac type. It's a 1976 280Z. Unfortunately, it looks like the original parts weren't kept so it could be converted back. Touched by Tom Cruise!!! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/vanilla-sky-ferrari-250-gto-replica/