Zed Head

How did it behave when you jacked it up to put it on the stands? Was it flimsy or solid? The rockers, I believe, are the major longitudinal body stiffeners. You know more, of course, but overall stiffness tells a lot about potential. Was that a muffler hanger holding the "roll bars"? And a piece of strap steel for the seat belt? What does "inspection" entail in your area? How much needs to be done to pass? Just curious. It might be possible to get it past inspection but avoiding involvement with a future disaster is reason enough to say no.

Well then, no offense intended, sometimes we overlook the obvious, the simple thing to do would be to compare the parts on the front of both engines. Get out the ruler or tape measure. Or, any chance you got the engine mount brackets on the wrong sides? People do it sometimes but I don't know if it moves the engine forward. It does cause it to tilt the wrong way.

Who wants to message the guy about leaving a deposit?

Did the 240Z have anything in it when you bought it? Looked at your old posts and can't find any details. Could be an engine swap, could be a salvage car that didn't have anything. Details about the L28 might help too.

Where are you seeing two options for 1977? The writeup that you pulled from is specific to 1977. His other comments are his best guesses for other years. I'd follow his first set of instructions. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html The table that you pasted might be from zcarcreations if I remember right (not positive). That scheme will give you problems with your brake light. Follow the atlanticZ instructions and you should be fine. For 1977. p.s. when you copy from other web sites it helps a lot to post the link. Good luck.

I thought that CL had a way to report scams but I guess not. So, what exactly is the scam? Not clear how the scammers make money from fake ads. I do remember the old "selling but not in town" scam where they asked you to wire money. But this one looks local. What's the latest scam technique?

This page might help on the speedo gear. https://www.thezstore.com/category/1005/speedometer-pinion-parts

That's a bummer. Here's a Hybridz thread that might be helpful. Note also the part about the ring gear size. Two different sizes for R180's. Better check. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

Seems possible if you can work in that tight space. It might even be easier to get the pin aligned and the circlip on. Worth a shot. Worst case you just do what you were trying to avoid. Wish I had thought of that. I hated removing my console, Nissan made the wires so short it was really a pain to work with them.

McMaster-Carr has BSPT fittings. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/pipe-fittings/thread-type~bspt/low-pressure-galvanized-iron-and-steel-threaded-pipe-fittings/

Doing is knowing. Use Vise-Grips on the spring. My clevis pin had a round head also. Push it out with a screwdriver.

Remove the return spring from the pedal and it might be easier to get things in a position to come apart. It will also take any pulling force off of the rod. Also, you can loosen the locknut on the clevis and turn the rod with a pair of pliers to unscrew it completely from the clevis. Ths will leave the clevis hanging free on the pedal. Turning the rod while everything is together is the way to adjust it after installing too. Adjust it without the return spring until it is correct, lock it down, then put the return spring on last.

This might help after you take it apart - https://engineering.timken.com/engineering-tool/seal-search/ That's a weep hole. It lets the oil out before it travels down the inside of front cover nose to the pressure plate if the front seal leaks. By the way the steel front cover will fit the ZX transmission if you find problems with the aluminum one.

You showed the axle flange but not the backing plate. Check the backing plate for rub marks. Pretty common to get a slight bend in it. A hammer will fix it.

Sounds like the AAR is closing too soon. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/aar/index.html

The parts manual shows only one propeller shaft for the 280Z's. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft And does show both transmissions. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-assembly

Won't you have more heat with the headers? You'll be cooking that oil pan gasket. I'm sure a lot of work went in to designing and implementing that odd little piece of metal.

Hammer?

You'll want to block the heater core ports not loop them. Looping them allows coolant to flow back to the water pump without passing through the radiator. Carb cleaner will dissolve paint and swell rubber. I've found that WD-40 turns in to a gooey material over time. I hosed my distributor down and it was a mess inside when I took it apart months later. Seems like your dillema is whether or not you want to drive the car while you upgrade the parts.

My 76 original hoses split while driving and were blowing steam by the time I pulled in to my driveway. Don't forget that there are hoses in the cabin also. More to worry about. If you're going to replace them just make a slit lengthwise to loosen up the grip on the nipple. For some odd reason Nissan doesn't seem to have anything about the cabin heating system in the 240Z FSM's. It might be buried in a chapter somehwere but I can never find it.

The purpose of the tank on the early Z's might have something to do with the position of the hoses. The fuel probably sloshes pretty hard on turning, pressuring the vent lines. Without the tank that fuel could get pushed in to the vent line to the canister. The way that the system is illustrated suggests that it has a "drain-back" purpose. Plus they called it a liquid/vapor separator (#3). I'd guess that the vapor hose entry points were repositioned in later tanks. p.s. I'm not sure I was following what you were reporting in your previous post about liquid in the line. I thought it was with the #3 tank in place. . .

You won't know what it needs until you get in to it. The quality of the garage will be important. How you prepared it for storage will affect its rebirth. Did you dran the carb bowls? Add some stabilizer to the fuel? On the fuel tank, a lot will depend on the gas cap seal. I'd take site's advice and just crank it up on new fuel. It's carbs so not much to lose. See how it runs and decide if you have a huge project or just some minor work to do.

Have you seen distillation in action? Vapor moves man! Actually, the hotter the tank is and the colder the line, the faster you'll build up liquid. I'd actually be surprised if condensation was not happening.

Here's an image from the 1991 300ZX FSM, just to look at. No vent tanks, just straight lines. And a check valve.

Good opportunity to do a "will it run" pictorial. Let's see that fuel tank turpentine.