Zed Head

You can wire up the HEI module directly from the distributor wires and the coil power supply right next to the coil. Forget about the ballast resistor entirely, at least for a quick test. Or just use it as a terminal block. The HEI module is current limiting. The stock module is about 4.5 amps, I think, and the high performance ones about 7. But that's just at the beginning of the coil charging cycle. Should be fine. It's all about heat and you can touch the parts to see how they're doing.

Doesn't look like you tried. You said you were on the edge and passed on the next run-through. Therefore.... Keep an open mind. The 280Z EFI system is an excellent learning tool. Good luck.

The "proper" way to adjust the fuel-air mixture at idle is with the screw on the side of the AFM, not the spring inside. It's described in the FSM. Edit - actually, it's described that the bypass screw is not to be adjusted. But it is the most direct way to lean out or richen the idle mixture.

A carb'ed engine would have a low volume low pressure pump. No reason for it to be loud.

Have you had a timing light on it? Not clear why it would hunt at 2000 RPM but not at idle. 2000 is in the range of the centrifugal advance slope. Have you been inside the distributor? Engine RPM = twice distributor RPM.

I haven't experienced it, only read about it. Most people see it with a timing light. The mark is erratic. You could switch them and see what happens. The voltage and current is the same.

Are you sure that you need that for your vehicle? I only had to do the idle test. I lived in unincorporated Washington County though. plus, they will test your car for free, multiple times, as long as you're making progress on meeting the standard.

Actually, I might have my ammeter signs backward. Could be S is going open, as SteveJ suggested. Anyway, my point was about the possibility of funky wiring.

Rolling back to the original alternator wiring thread - seems like the L wire going open circuit might cause the ammeter issue. Might be two separate issues here, a dying starter and problematic wiring. How about some current pictures of the alternator and its wiring today? Especially the L circuit wire. Might be illuminating.

If I understood your first alternator wiring thread you have swapped in an internally regulated alternator. Linked below. But, there's no guarantee that it has not failed. Might be worthwhile to take it in to a parts store and have it tested. https://zcardepot.com/collections/charging-starting/products/alternator-high-amp-80-240z-260z-280z?variant=19280584015985 This alternator is rated at 70 amps and bolts up in the same location as the original. Internally regulated.

I saw that too. I wondered if the starter motor was getting stuck on.

There was a whole long thread a couple of years ago about this car. A swap to an internally regulated alternator, with a jumpered plug. I got confused just re-reading my own comments in the thread. Not sure I was helping. It ended with "new battery". Not so sure now...

How about this? Should be in your memory. The other wires look normal.

How about a failing voltage regulator? Why did you install the new parts last fall?

Looks like Herko uses different part numbers than Standard. The 4052 is the same as the PR 1 3 4. No offense intended to anyone but people seem to be responding without actually opening the first Rockauto link. It's making the conversation a bit confusing. The part numbers are there for both Beck Arnley and Standard. And the original question was about 78-83 FPR's, even though tool_man has a 77. I assume that he swapped rails for a later model. It's an interesting topic but we seem to be repeating ourselves. No offense!!!! https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,1978,super+beetle,1.6l+h4,1423178,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+regulator,6124 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=482565&cc=1423178&pt=6124 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=46974&cc=1423178&pt=6124&jsn=11

These reviewers on Amazon use the Standard PR134 on BMW motorcycles. Up to 1990. Who knew. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-PR134-Regulator/dp/B000C7YAJ8#customerReviews

The VW part has two flared nipples, for rubber hose and clamps. The male threads are for fastening to a mounting bracket. The adjustable Bosch FPR that I had used the same design. I think that I modified an old broken Nissan FPR and used its bracket to mount the Bosch. The 37 psi shown as the spec. is almost certainly a typo. The Beck Arnley piece is in the same list of VW FPR's. Circling back... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,1978,super+beetle,1.6l+h4,1423178,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+regulator,6124

Here's a 76, for the three piece rail, just to round things out. A person could insert a T fitting and hang the FPR off of it in a pinch.

Here's 78. The barbs are different but the orientation is about right. The ZX looks about the same I think the mounting bracket might be slightly different. I found an eBay FPR that is slightly different. Says it's for the ZX's. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304857213677?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-EOJC1W2RHK&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bBzFtXzvTQO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 1980

Their shopping site doesn't show it. Seems likely the main site is out of date. If you blend 10W-30 with 20W-50 do you get 15W-40? Hmmm.... https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/collections/vr1-racing-motor-oil

@HusseinHolland had some posts about the same problem. In the past I had modified an adjustable regulator to be vacuum modulated. Made me get on to Rockauto and look around. VW's Super Beetles had 2.5 bar EFI in the seventies. The FPR's are cheaper than the Nissan versions. Should be able to make it work. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,1978,super+beetle,1.6l+h4,1423178,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+regulator,6124

The dimmer should also cause a change if it's an instrument light.

What's happen when you pull the parking brake lever with the key on? If a socket is swapped an instrument bulb should light up instead, and the warning light should stay off. Might need to try it in the dark.

The same assembly method was used on the ignition switch. I had one that was so loose it would lose contact completely. I restaked it with a punch and it came back to life. For that amount of heat, to melt the plastic, I'd bet that it's so loose that you can see it move. Some silver conductive paste would probably help. But if they can be removed and soldered that would probably be the best you could get.

I just linked this in the Smoke thread. I haven't looked at it so don't know if it drops amperage through the fuse. It might. https://www.thezstore.com/product/5031/parking-light-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z Beside that, have you looked at the back of the panel? Behind that fuse? Poor contact there could cause heat. Looks like only one side is getting hot.