Zed Head

The hub rides on the bearings. So the bearing race seats and the seal seats are what matter on the inside. I think that the lip is protection to keep dust and dirt away from the seal. When you put it back together look down at the gap and you'll probably see its purpose.

Do they look the same on the wheel side?

Have you checked the edge of the short one for damage? I had a 78 hub that had that lip worn off due to a pebble getting trapped in the gap and grinding away. It didn't matter much because the seal seat was intact. Wipe the grease off and see if it's a machined surface or jagged.

The two switches just complete the path to ground for the light. The wire that goes to the warning light switch is probably shorted to ground somewhere. You'll have to find it. It's not a distribution block, it's just a switch.

Seems like you have your priorities right. Good luck. Don't press too hard. Slow and steady on the big jobs.

These seem to fit together, but with some years in between.

All of the ratings are shown. If you pick 4 and 5 as "good" and 3 or lower as "bad", you get a 70% good rate. Who wants that? Ford has produced millions of them. Not really seeing anything to argue about. Are you still going to use it? Imagine hitting a bump while driving and having the engine die. The safety device actually causes an unsafe condition. Sorry it had to be you. It's not personal...

I'm just saying, Ford parts probably don't get these kinds of reviews. Amazon is full of cheap parts. I have a set of headphones that broke after a year and Amazon just "disappeared" them and the company that sold them from their web site. From the United States DGC 1.0 out of 5 stars It stopped working Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on July 15, 2022 Verified Purchase This was the cheapest option and I should have spent more money. It doesnt necessarily feel bad initially. I tested it a few times and it worked like I wanted. I went to install this and of course it wouldnt reset anymore. Look elsewhere for a product Helpful Report david chappell 1.0 out of 5 stars Cheap quality Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on October 26, 2022 Verified Purchase Broke immediately after install Helpful Report Joy V Pawless 1.0 out of 5 stars connector will not secure Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on August 10, 2022 Verified Purchase The connector that plugs into the switch doesn't secure or lock in. I just trashed it. Helpful Report bobsled 46 1.0 out of 5 stars Very trigger happy Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on July 17, 2022 Verified Purchase Mine tripped when I closed the car door. And I tried 2 of them. Buy something else

Most Ford vehicles have inertia switches. If you want a high volume auto factory made piece. No offense to the Amazon parts but I'd rather have a used (by time only) Ford part than an untested part. Typically behind the kick panel on the passenger side. The red button is visible so that it can be reset. Salvage yards would have hundreds.

The manufacturers are running out of names. "Hmknana"

Your 77 should already have one in the AFM. When air flow stops the fuel pump power is cut off. Your fuel pump should not be running when you turn the key on. Only at Start and when the engine is running. That first picture shows a modified engine, with individual coils. It must have aftermarket engine management. But, on the topic, if you haven't already done it - the 1978 and 280ZX fuel rails are safer than the three piece 75-77 rails. The hose connecting the three pieces can leak. That first picture shows what's probably a 78 rail. One piece metal.

The poly in front will stop the control arm from moving backward on braking. It gives more precision to the steering. That's its only real purpose. It started as a racing thing, people saw a market, and started making poly parts for anything that was rubber. If you put poly in the back it puts side force on the tip of the rod as the suspension moves. The rod actually changes its angle through that mount as the suspension moves. You can move it by hand and see what happens. Since yours is apart you could assemble the rod and mimic it. Eventually the metal will fatigue and it will break off. It will also creak and moan when you go over bumps. It happened on my 76. That was with old rubber in the control arm bushings. Some people have said that they put poly everywhere and did not have any problems. So it might be that the mix of poly and old rubber creates a problem. And, finally, some people have drilled holes in the poly to reduce its overall stiffness. But, of course, that just makes it more like rubber.

I had a Pontiac GTO in my early days and knew several guys with Firebirds. I'd heard of the Pontiac Sprint 6 but never knew much about it. Found this article today. It's an OHC but the cam is in the valve cover. Pretty crazy. It was a big engine too. 250 CI versus 146 for an L24. Straight six with a Quadrajet. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/inside-the-sprint-six

Oil expands quite a bit with temperature. Could be a factor. If the PO raised the back end that would also allow a little more in.

Me too! Thanks Mike. Got this when I clicked on site's post.

My general internet policy is to never click on anything that I did not ask to see. So far none of my internet accounts have ever been hacked. Why take a chance? If I click on a link to see a post and a big ad pops up instead, no offense intended to anyone, it's just my opinion - but it seems very dumb to click on anything in the unasked for "thing". I did a quick Google and I find agreement. https://www.fortinet.com/resources/cyberglossary/computer-virus How To Prevent Your Computer From Viruses There are several ways to protect your computer from viruses, including: ... Avoid Clicking Pop-up Advertisements Unwanted pop-up advertisements are more than likely to be linked to computer viruses and malware. Never click on pop-up advertisements because this can lead to inadvertently downloading viruses onto a computer.

I refuse to submit!

Here's where I saw Mark Maras's comment. There are identical threads for some reason.

The site seems to be contaminated with this new ad. I've seen it on other primitive sites, where your first click opens up the ad. If you back up and try again you get through to the page you were supposed to get to.

They've been around a long time. Amazon.

I see a shiny spot. ??? I thought I had seen a post from Mark MAras about whether or not the box was magnetic, but the post seems to be gone now. Is the box magnetic? How did it stay attached? How did it get removed for the picture?

I just did and I'm on. I had already sent you an email. I guess you didn't get it. You just did the very ironic internet thing of telling me to use the web site functions to tell you that the web site functions don't work. "If your phone doesn't work just give us a phone call and we'll look in to it!" 😀 I only got lucky in that I was still signed on on my phone. Usually I sign out.

I've been unable to view posts or sign in from my computer for the last few days. All other web sites work fine. I sent Mike an email about it but got no reply. I'm still signed in on my phone though and everything works correctly here. So if you've been expecting replies or wondering why there's little activity that might be why. @Mike

I don't think that you're seeing what his web page is saying. "Brands vary". It's a crap shoot. You got lucky. Many people don't. Al has a long history of poor quality, since his business was called Datsun Parts LLC. He is a member of the site. Screen name URGELIS. Datsun Nissan Z 240Z 260Z 280Z 280 ZX Engine (Motor) Master Rebuilding Kit. Includes: Brands Vary- AC, ACL, Safety, Gates, Acer, Topline, ITM, Felpro

Hopefully the wear was on the rings and not the bores. I'd guess he'll give it a hone though. Good luck.