Zed Head

Tried it. No go...

Edit - I searched "240Z" on the Mecum site and it brought up a bunch. But the site has reset somehow and now just brings up other stuff. Put 240Z in the search box. https://www.mecum.com/auctions/monterey-2023/lots/?wp_posts_lot_feature_sort_asc[configure][filters]=&wp_posts_lot_feature_sort_asc[refinementList][taxonomies.auction_tax.name][0]=Monterey 2023|1692230400|1692403200&wp_posts_lot_feature_sort_asc[query]=240z&wp_posts_lot_feature_sort_asc[sortBy]=wp_posts_lot_sort_order_asc

Can you see bids on OfferUp? It might actually have some value. That green crud grows pretty quick out here, no telling how bad the rest of it is. Fresh water isn't like salt water.

Just stumbled across 229, apparently, on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134685619600

Today? Can you paste an image of the error message? I just opened yours and it works fine. I do still get the endless spinning wheel though. when I try to go directly to a recent post. I have to use trickery to get it to open.

It's only at $2,300 now

One of these? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1979,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209293,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968

Looks like an estate sale business, they don't really know how to sell a vehicle. Don't know what people want to see. Weird that the "View Sale" link takes you to a worse page. The best pictures (unexpandable thumbnails) are on Carl's link. Might be worth a look. Plenty of time. Seems to be a roller. Ararity Presents A Rare Datsun 240z 2/1971 Classic Car. A True Treasure! 4-Speed Manual Transmission, AC Equipped, and 920 Gold Paint. Minimal Rust for the Year! Garage Found. Nissan Motor Co LTD. Located in VA DC MD Metro Area. Car is available for viewing. Sale is live bid now! BID NOW! Sale Closing September 7th 7:00 PM EST.

Mike hasn't visited the site since July 16. You can choose "search for his content" through the Member list to get to his content page which also has other info. I reported the issue on Site Support on July 23. Looks like he is either letting the site run on autopilot or is on vacation. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?type=core_members&joinedDate=any https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/2-mike/content/

It's down there in that sketchy part of the country for Z's. I'd want to see the firewall stamping. Shipping: See item description for shipping details Located in: La Puente, California, United States

For what it's worth, Perfection shows a tall collar. Of course, the pictures often don't represent the actual parts. But, it's for the same car, a 79 280ZX. The 06009 is a choice there too. p.s. I had a Perfection for a while but really didn't like it. Stiff pedal and it chattered really bad when it got hot. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=334529&cc=1209293&pt=1993&jsn=393

It's kind of funny how many different ways a person can take a measurement on that sleeve and bearing. Using my eyeball calibrated to my computer monitor, and referring back to Post #140, I have to surmise that you have the shortest possible throwout bearing sleeve/collar. Something still seems odd though. That looks like a tall pressure plate. If you look at my picture in #149 you'll see that no math is necessary. That's a straight piece of wood sitting on an ear (hard to see because the camera is head-on to the ear) and extending out to where I could get a clear measurement to the surface the pressure plate is sitting on. With a cheap caliper that reads in metric, so no math. Direct metric measurement from ear surface to plate surface. Anyway, not sure what's going on there. Looks like you'd gain about 10 mm with the longest sleeve/collar. But your math says that still leaves you short.

This picture has the caliper jaws sitting on the top of the sleeve, not the ears. That might be a short sleeve/collar. Might be a 240mm clutch part. The ears are where the spring wire is sitting. So, that could be the missing distance.

It's a bearing. It can be pressed on two ways. How does it become a rabbit hole? Actually, I can't say for sure that Patcon's is backward just based on the pictures. But, it's 50-50. Either way the measurement should be taken with the stack stacked.

I see. You're only showing the TOB and bearing. You have to add the height of the clutch pressure plate, from the fingers. Set the TOB and bearing on top of the pressure plate and measure down to the surface it's sitting on. You're only showing half of the stack. Edit - maybe that second measuremnet is from the fingers? It's in the ball park of your first picture couldn't tell if you were just showing the smae measurement. But, your bearing is on backwards. I see 1.70" and 1.75 from your measurements. 43 + about 44.5 = 87.5 mm. You might get there with the right bearing orientation, sitting on the finger tips.

Not really sure what's happening here. Looks like three random posts tacked on to the end of an old thread. Apparently Patcon has some new parts that don't match the old parts?

It's not increased tension (the rod is under compression during forward braking on the Z's), it's the side/bending load on the tip of the rod as the suspension moves that fatigues it. The kit is supposed to allow the rod end to move around the pivot plane of the mounting plate area. Looking at the parts in that picture it looks like the designer did not get the shape right on the combination of parts. It's meant to move but the pivot point is extended out by the thickness of the aluminum cup. And/or the hole in the aluminum cup is too small and the rod binds up as the angle changes, you can imagine it just by looking at the picture. Seems like a person could/should just open up that hole and it would work like it was meant to. Somebody messed up. If you ever have the front end apart and want to see what happens, leave the rod disconnected from the control arm and move it through the range of motion it would see while the suspension moves. And Delrin is a polyacetal (polyoxymethylene) not polyethylene. It's known for dimensional stability but apparently not so good under high loads. Could also be poor molding if it was injection molded. It's used often for small gears and things like that. Just some thoughts/observations/opinions. I broke a rod after installing PU bushings. Had a month or two of creaking and groaning over uneven ground to think about it before it popped.

Have you checked the ground from the module mounting point with a meter? Your drawing shows a wire but the area under the dash is not full of good grounding spots. It's often pretty crusty under there too. One of the few things that can cause quick heat buildup is electricity. p.s. heat could be causing the module to fail. Higher PRM passes more current through the module. More current = more heat. Not sure if a bad ground could cause more heat but it might.

If you have a manual transmission just leave it in gear and watch the tachometer. If the tachometer is still showing proper engine speed as the car slows down then the ignition system is still producing spark. If the tach goes to zero but the engine is still turning then it's not. You said that it starts back up. Do you mean that the engine restarts by itself as RPM drop below 2000? Or that you have to pull over, wait, and use the starter?

The ZX manifold is different from the Z manifold. It will fit the engine but I don't know if it will not conflict with something else on the way back. Can't recall anyone using the ZX manifold in a Z or vice-versa. Worth a test fit. kickstand 80, he has a ZX parts car, and a Z driver. Not a lot of crossover in parts. The engine will swap though. The ECU won't unless the wiring harness and AFM come along with it.

I think that the ignition relay will swap in to your car, whatever it is. You never said, I assume it is a 1975 - 1978 280Z. It's behind the glove box in the ZX's. It doesn't have the same part number because Nissan added a dedicated ground terminal. But the relay inside and the connections are the same. On the 280Z's the relay is in the drip zone by the fuse box and can get corroded. Coil, other relays, alternator, AC compressor maybe.

Sorry, I missed your last post for some reason. Looks like you still have a leak. The other area that could confuse things is the injector seals. They can leak also and might look like a manifold leak.

Usually the exhaust system mounting plate is thin and doesn't seal when you use headers. The intake manifold should seal. You didn't really say if the intake was sealed with the new gasket or not. EuroDat mentioned the electronics and running lean. That problem is common. Might be worth trying the fuel tweak on the coolant temperature sensor circuit if there are no obvious intake system leaks. It's easy and it works. Make sure you fix that AFM though. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Looks more like you had a vacuum leak from the beginning. You should return the AFM wheel to its original position immediately. The only reason to move it is to move it back to where it started at the factory. It's not a tunable device. One thing that gets overlooked often is that a leak in the PCV system can let air in to the air intake system. Any air that does not flow through the AFM will lean out the mixture. The hose from the valve cover and the one under the intake manifold are both possible leak points. People sometimes use a smoke test to find vacuum leaks.

Not an expert. But, barely lower is what you'd get if the valve head was bent on the stem. Since everything is back together it might be worthwhile to pull the spark plugs and spin the engine by hand to see what the valve is doing. Does it get stuck or does it move freely. Then, if you're brave, spin it with the starter with the plugs out. Don't forget to disconnect the coil, or use a remote starter with the key off. You could also measure cylinder pressures if it spins freely. If the valve is not closing completely you'll get a zero on that one.