Zed Head

For what it's worth, Perfection shows a tall collar. Of course, the pictures often don't represent the actual parts. But, it's for the same car, a 79 280ZX. The 06009 is a choice there too. p.s. I had a Perfection for a while but really didn't like it. Stiff pedal and it chattered really bad when it got hot. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=334529&cc=1209293&pt=1993&jsn=393

It's kind of funny how many different ways a person can take a measurement on that sleeve and bearing. Using my eyeball calibrated to my computer monitor, and referring back to Post #140, I have to surmise that you have the shortest possible throwout bearing sleeve/collar. Something still seems odd though. That looks like a tall pressure plate. If you look at my picture in #149 you'll see that no math is necessary. That's a straight piece of wood sitting on an ear (hard to see because the camera is head-on to the ear) and extending out to where I could get a clear measurement to the surface the pressure plate is sitting on. With a cheap caliper that reads in metric, so no math. Direct metric measurement from ear surface to plate surface. Anyway, not sure what's going on there. Looks like you'd gain about 10 mm with the longest sleeve/collar. But your math says that still leaves you short.

This picture has the caliper jaws sitting on the top of the sleeve, not the ears. That might be a short sleeve/collar. Might be a 240mm clutch part. The ears are where the spring wire is sitting. So, that could be the missing distance.

It's a bearing. It can be pressed on two ways. How does it become a rabbit hole? Actually, I can't say for sure that Patcon's is backward just based on the pictures. But, it's 50-50. Either way the measurement should be taken with the stack stacked.

I see. You're only showing the TOB and bearing. You have to add the height of the clutch pressure plate, from the fingers. Set the TOB and bearing on top of the pressure plate and measure down to the surface it's sitting on. You're only showing half of the stack. Edit - maybe that second measuremnet is from the fingers? It's in the ball park of your first picture couldn't tell if you were just showing the smae measurement. But, your bearing is on backwards. I see 1.70" and 1.75 from your measurements. 43 + about 44.5 = 87.5 mm. You might get there with the right bearing orientation, sitting on the finger tips.

Not really sure what's happening here. Looks like three random posts tacked on to the end of an old thread. Apparently Patcon has some new parts that don't match the old parts?

It's not increased tension (the rod is under compression during forward braking on the Z's), it's the side/bending load on the tip of the rod as the suspension moves that fatigues it. The kit is supposed to allow the rod end to move around the pivot plane of the mounting plate area. Looking at the parts in that picture it looks like the designer did not get the shape right on the combination of parts. It's meant to move but the pivot point is extended out by the thickness of the aluminum cup. And/or the hole in the aluminum cup is too small and the rod binds up as the angle changes, you can imagine it just by looking at the picture. Seems like a person could/should just open up that hole and it would work like it was meant to. Somebody messed up. If you ever have the front end apart and want to see what happens, leave the rod disconnected from the control arm and move it through the range of motion it would see while the suspension moves. And Delrin is a polyacetal (polyoxymethylene) not polyethylene. It's known for dimensional stability but apparently not so good under high loads. Could also be poor molding if it was injection molded. It's used often for small gears and things like that. Just some thoughts/observations/opinions. I broke a rod after installing PU bushings. Had a month or two of creaking and groaning over uneven ground to think about it before it popped.

Have you checked the ground from the module mounting point with a meter? Your drawing shows a wire but the area under the dash is not full of good grounding spots. It's often pretty crusty under there too. One of the few things that can cause quick heat buildup is electricity. p.s. heat could be causing the module to fail. Higher PRM passes more current through the module. More current = more heat. Not sure if a bad ground could cause more heat but it might.

If you have a manual transmission just leave it in gear and watch the tachometer. If the tachometer is still showing proper engine speed as the car slows down then the ignition system is still producing spark. If the tach goes to zero but the engine is still turning then it's not. You said that it starts back up. Do you mean that the engine restarts by itself as RPM drop below 2000? Or that you have to pull over, wait, and use the starter?

The ZX manifold is different from the Z manifold. It will fit the engine but I don't know if it will not conflict with something else on the way back. Can't recall anyone using the ZX manifold in a Z or vice-versa. Worth a test fit. kickstand 80, he has a ZX parts car, and a Z driver. Not a lot of crossover in parts. The engine will swap though. The ECU won't unless the wiring harness and AFM come along with it.

I think that the ignition relay will swap in to your car, whatever it is. You never said, I assume it is a 1975 - 1978 280Z. It's behind the glove box in the ZX's. It doesn't have the same part number because Nissan added a dedicated ground terminal. But the relay inside and the connections are the same. On the 280Z's the relay is in the drip zone by the fuse box and can get corroded. Coil, other relays, alternator, AC compressor maybe.

Sorry, I missed your last post for some reason. Looks like you still have a leak. The other area that could confuse things is the injector seals. They can leak also and might look like a manifold leak.

Usually the exhaust system mounting plate is thin and doesn't seal when you use headers. The intake manifold should seal. You didn't really say if the intake was sealed with the new gasket or not. EuroDat mentioned the electronics and running lean. That problem is common. Might be worth trying the fuel tweak on the coolant temperature sensor circuit if there are no obvious intake system leaks. It's easy and it works. Make sure you fix that AFM though. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Looks more like you had a vacuum leak from the beginning. You should return the AFM wheel to its original position immediately. The only reason to move it is to move it back to where it started at the factory. It's not a tunable device. One thing that gets overlooked often is that a leak in the PCV system can let air in to the air intake system. Any air that does not flow through the AFM will lean out the mixture. The hose from the valve cover and the one under the intake manifold are both possible leak points. People sometimes use a smoke test to find vacuum leaks.

Not an expert. But, barely lower is what you'd get if the valve head was bent on the stem. Since everything is back together it might be worthwhile to pull the spark plugs and spin the engine by hand to see what the valve is doing. Does it get stuck or does it move freely. Then, if you're brave, spin it with the starter with the plugs out. Don't forget to disconnect the coil, or use a remote starter with the key off. You could also measure cylinder pressures if it spins freely. If the valve is not closing completely you'll get a zero on that one.

Sounds like it. Or somebody adjusted the lash too loose on that valve. You can compare the height of the valve when it should be closed (on the base circle) to other valves that are closed. It could be just stuck or it could be stuck because it's bent. Rocker arms jumping their lash pads is not uncommon when revving an engine that's been sitting. You can find stories. Many people just put it back together and carry on and never have it happen again.

People here call that the lash pad. That's not good, it would be holding the valve open. Any chance the locknut came loose on the adjustment side? Can you wiggle it by hand? Was it mine, I'd recheck lash from scratch.

If, by pulley, you mean that off-center cam-looking thing in the middle of the chain sprocket, that's the fuel pump eccentric. It is supposed to be off center, it pushes the fuel pump lever each time it passes by. Can't tell how many RPM "revving' is or what ping or knocking actually mean. But I can say that your valve lash seems tight. On a properly adjusted valve train the base circle (the part of the cam lobe with no hump) will not be worn since that is where the lash is, and the anti-rattle springs keep the wear pad off of the base of the lobe. The base circle is usually brown. Yours show wear all the way around. You might want to recheck valve lash. You might shine a light down toward the chain tensioner and see if you can tell how far out is extended. You can also set your damper pulley at zero and check your chain wear marks on the sprocket. The notch and groove. Make sure the tight side, driver's side, is tight.

Looks like overheating and/or lack of oil. Are they all like that? p.s. I wouldn't call that piston "slap". Slap is from loose pistons. That one got too tight.

Might find it in a bearing cross-reference somewhere. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/alternator/12v-60a https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bearing-ball~23120-65004.html This popped up on the Google. Read the description closely. 17 seems right. Has the Nissan number shown. https://smithcoelectric.com/products/5-4700-new-bearing-17mm-x-47mm-x-14mm-17x47x14

Looks like they sold out to the Holley conglomerate. It's the way the industry is going. Once the big guys own them the cost-cutting starts. Some of the smaller names seemed to benefit but I think that in the end everything averages out to mediocre. https://www.linkedin.com/company/aem-performance-electronics/ https://www.holley.com/logos/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holley_Performance_Products in 2018, Lincolnshire Equity IV, L.P. sold Holley to Sentinel Capital Partners who merged the company with its Driven Performance Brands

Actually you have the simplest version of the ignition modules, with just one coil control circuit. You can try the swap in the engine bay, next to the coil, without doing anything to the factory module except unplugging it. Edit - actually disconnecting since you don't have a plug. EuroDat's mod is the slick, looks factory, swap method. But there are clues that you haven't mentioned. You've talked about RPM and the lazy tach needle the next day but haven't described what the needle is doing while it's running poorly. That's a good clue. If the needle is not steady and following engine speed correctly then that's a sign of spark problems. The other common electronics problem is the ECU solder joints. The test for that is to bang on the side of the ECU when things are acting up and see if there's a change.

I don't know how the relay associated with that retrofit works but, if it was set up likes today's EFI engines it would have a 5 second run timer as soon as you turn the key on, to refill the float bowls. Other carb guys know more. Nissans document describes what's happening pretty well. Percolation, they call it. They talk about being too rich but if the boiling continues for long eventually you end up at too lean. Anyway, their descriptions might offer clues. Good luck.

The bearing pressing has been discussed off and on around the internet. The procedure is counter to normal but it's what Nissan says to do. The question would be "how much force is necessary to get the bearing races seated?" The final torque value is only on the inner race and distance piece, not the balls and races. I haven't done one so don't know how hard it is to push the races in during installation.

I didn't really think that you would find anything but it was worth a look. It's not clear how the ignition modules fail, but they do at a pretty regular rate. If it was mine I would take it for a drive and see if the problem repeats. Take extra care to note what happens when it does. You only have this one incident to guess about. Stop immediately when it happens and let things cool down for a few seconds. Restart and see what happens. You need more data.