Zed Head

The Project Farm guy just put out a video about fuel stabilizers. Very interesting. (Let's see if it attracts any bots.) TLDW - Sta-bil was the best.

Gasoline doesn't crystallize. I'd drain some fuel in to a clear container and get a better look at it. Not "clear" what you mean by fouling.

Looks like it still has an engine. Says it's a turbo. Row521982 Datsun 280ZX at PICK-n-PULL Portland South JN1CZ04S1CX623964

So is this false advertising? Implies that the original color is red. I think that you meant 93

I would also measure charging voltage with the engine running. Maybe you are over-charging. At higher than idle RPM, where max output would be high. "Possible causes are: Faulty charging system (stuck or shorted regulator/alternator)"

Never mind. Just my poor memory. They're out there. Blue on blue seems uncommon though.

Could you do the voltage measurement test while everything is cold and working correctly? Too much current will be shown by a voltage drop, and possibly overheating. If voltage shows high current then you can focus on solving that problem. Or at least confirm that you have another bad module. Ideally Mallory would have provided more tests to confirm that the system as a whole is correct for module longevity.

1970 SERIES 1 !!! 🥴 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-139/

A new BaT offering...

Here you go. Back on track. Interesting back story. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-299/

Use the Ignore button DC. You won't see that person's posts unless somebody quotes them. This discussion is relevant. There's a new group of people buying up Z cars from around the world and restoring them. Without feedback from the community, us, they might be missing opportunities. BaT auctions are only up for seven days. Without advertising their car could easily go RNM. If you see people at a party arguing over in the corner, don't go over to that corner. I've Ignored a few members in the past. The only downside is that you have to be signed in for it to work. But, on the other hand, S30.World could start a separate thread. Or you could start one for them. I wouldn't call it the pissing thread though. 😄 Hover your cursor over a person's avatar and the screen will pop up.

??? Your message is not clear. You've offered a link to "entertainment" but seem offended by the suggestion that your endeavor is entertaining. Anything on the internet can be viewed as "entertainment". The discussion about what S30.World is attempting is entertaining. Some feedback that I could offer after browsing your web site is to put the announcement of the BaT auction on the main page. It is hidden on the Masterpieces page now and will only be seen by accident or by people who open and read each page. And, as far as I can tell, there is no link to the Masterpieces page directly from the main S30.World page. A person has to discover that the three bars at the upper right produce a set of sub-menus. Even then the Masterpieces page is a sub-menu under a sub-menu. Quite a number of clicks to get there. Looking forward to seeing which car is chosen for the auction on 10/23. Good luck.

I think that the 720 71B's might be shorter than the ones frm the Z's. Something to check. Here's a very long thread from a guy who delved deep deep deep in to the 71B transmissions. HybridZHigh RPM shifting dynamicsTrying to understand the dynamics of high RPM shifting. Specifically why does my 1983 FS5W71B tend to grind slightly when shifting from 1st to 2nd at 7300rpm. When I rebuilt this tranny, i carefully l

#15652 has moved to Icon status. Seems odd that it could be unrestored. My comments are for entertainment. It is interesting to see what these guys are doing with their cars, and their web site. The whole business venture is fascinating, it is quite a large endeavor.

Could also be the not uncommon shifting of manufacturing to the cheapest supplier overseas. Might just be that Mallory is just a brand name now, quality has degraded. I think that you could wire in a GM HEI module, even though it's not a VR system. People use them on the ZX ECCS ignition system that uses zero and five volts to trigger the module and they seem to work just fine even though the trigger signal never goes negative. That would allow you to get rid of the ballast resistor also. OR - it might not be the module. It might be the hall effect sensor photo sensor. Isn't there a visible light where you're putting the credit card? Make sure the light is there. Never mind, I see that they integrated the sensor with the module. None of the above will work. Although a missing light might mean something. Who knows what though. Fun problem. Wish I had some broken stuff to fix.

The voltage that it dropped to after it cooled might be a clue. If you're passing too much current through the module it wil be less than the low limit of one volt. They don't describe intermittent problems, you're on your own here. "2) If battery voltage is present, place a credit card, drivers license, business card or similar and block the photo optics of the module. The voltage should drop to 2 volts or less (1 to 2 volts). If this test is positive, then the module is working. 3) If the test results are as follows: a) Voltage does not drop, module is open and must be replaced. This may have been caused by a power surge, high resistance in the plugs or plug wires, or improper ground. Possible charging system load dump. b) Voltage always stays below 2. 0 volts. The module has been spiked by high voltage or amperage, lack of ballast resistor, or improperly wired. c) Voltage only drops to 3-4 volts could produce a weak spark."

Is it failing closed or open? Some voltage or no voltage? The ballast resistor has a coil of wire that adds the resistance. Might be failing open somewhere. Probably at a connection. Details of the test procedure might give some clues.

And the ballast resistor might have a short. It's part of the total resistance on the primary circuit, that passes through the module to ground.

Have you measured resistance through the coil? Too much current through the module might be overheating it. Might have a bad coil.

Maybe it needs a better module ground. And/or heat sink. The module looks like the typical GM module that grounds through the mounting points, and sinks heat through the contact of the bottom with the mounting surface.

Don't assume that new aftermarket u-joints will be better/tighter than used Nissan joints. Nissan's specification is very precise. Each joint came with clips of varying thickness so that play could be adjusted and set correctly. New aftermarket joints come with one clip thickness for all. I replaced a set on my car and they didn't seem any better. I actually removed them all and returned them. They were Precision from O'Reilly's. The Nissan joints are greaseable and are often just fine after a shot of new grease.

What would be the reason for avoiding the coil power supply if a relay is used? If you're using an internally regulated alternator and it's wired correctly the L(amp) wire might work if you connect between the diode and the alternator. Or, since you've rewired for the ZX alternator there might be a leftover wire that was used for the regulator. You probably used L but did you use IG? Might just be sitting there waiting for you.

The good shops can find the specs or just take measurements. And there are aftermarket propeller shafts out there. Nissan calls the center longitudinal shaft propeller and the two "half-shafts" drive. You need to be aware of one big problem with 1975 though - Nissan used a unique flange bolt pattern on the differental. 76, 77, and 78 won't work on a 75. Motorsport Auto (TheZStore) knows, on their Replacement page. But not on their Performance page. Oops. https://www.thezstore.com/category/935/replacement-driveshafts Don't buy a Performance shaft from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/category/827/performance-driveshafts

It looks about right. If you pull on the lever that the cable attaches to you'll see how it works. Each time you pull the parking brake lever that arm over the notched/toothed wheel moves over the teeth. As the brake shoes wear eventually the end of the arm catches one of the teeth and rotates the tightening mechanism, making it longer. When it's assembled correctly the end of the arm sits right on the teeth. An illustration of your picture is in the Brakes chapter.

Your links are broken. Maybe create a Google Drive photo album and provide a link. Or just copy and paste them in to your post. You can do that on CZCC. And, if you can't get a picture up, a list of the accessories might help. All the way to the AFM, or back to just a water pump? Exhaust manifolds? Alternator? Good luck. Somebody will buy it.