Zed Head

What brand is that fuse panel? Looks pretty nice. Many newer cars have similar panels mounted next to the battery like that. Those fuses look much more robust than the typical Maxi-fuse. Ford calls theirs a Mega Fuse. Not sure how many sizes there are. https://www.oemfordpart.com/oem-parts/ford-main-fuse-f87z14526ba

My memory is that you could take up the slop with your foot on the pedal in the cabin, without moving the throttle blade. It's not clear what you're actually moving in the 1/2 to 3/4. Or why the pedal would come back up that 1/2 to 3/4. Are you taking your foot completely off of the pedal? Can you describe the actual driving effects? What you feel your foot doing and why you think that there is slop? My linkage was adjusted in a way that put the bellcrank over-center at rest. So it was hard to control at low throttle opening. But as far as all of the parts along the way to the actual throttle body, all slop could be removed with slight pressure on the pedal. Riding the throttle pedal is not the same as riding the brake pedal.

Yes, it's just a simple switch. Somebody had problems fairly recently with a switch that didn't switch. There's a button inside the transmission that rides on the shift rod for reverse and 5th. The rod has a ramped notch cut in to it and the button gets pushed in when the transmission is put in to reverse. It's easy to unscrew and I think it's above the level of the fluid. A meter will tell you if it's good. Or you can just disconnect it, put a meter on it to measure continuity and put the transmission in to reverse. The Nissan draftsmen even drew the notch on to the rod. Part #20.

All of the 280Z and 280ZX halfshafts I had had grease fitting holes, and I collected a bunch. They had the small sealing screws installed in most cases. Maybe Nissan was working their way up to it and the 240Z's didn't get them. Or, maybe it was part of the "budget" sports car program. Left off to save a few cents. Maybe somebody out there has a 280Z or ZX half shaft that they can examine for an arrow. I don't have them anymore.

I was just using the schematics of those relays to show the possibility. The web page has the option of setting your specifications. Just have to put the work in. https://www.boschautoparts.com/g/relays

If you break the Fuel Pump Control Relay in to two separate relays I think that you'll find that you can build the circuit easily with two common relays. The EFI relay is a very simple relay with one actuator controlling two circuits. You could also go to the fuel pump control section of the FSM and build your own circuit based on their pump control chart. Nissan just combined them for convenience. https://www.boschautoparts.com/g/relays =controlling

Can anybody explain the purpose of this ad? It shows up often at the top of the page.

Amperage rating (ampacity is apparently the proper word) is a feature.

Did you verify proper contact of the eccentric on the actuating arm? Here's some good stuff. You can test the pump by hand.

It's been pretty well documented that what is shown as a red link is actually a brown link (they're shown in the FSM) and it is also a lower rating (smaller gauge) than the green link (also in the FSM). I never looked too closely at that chart in the past but now see that it has a yellow and a pink link. You won't find those on a Z. Maybe a ZX but not a Z. (Sorry Blue 246, no offense intended). Some of the Z car aftermarket suppliers like thezstore.com have updated their fusible link pages to show it. Don't forget that fusible links are "slow blow" fuses. Most automotive fuses are meant to fail quickly. Good luck.

Z-Series. A new take on the series designation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/385470127007

Seems like ZCD might not understand thermal conductivity. Strange. DescriptionNew fuel pump insulator spacer for Datsun 240Z and 260Z cars with mechanical fuel pumps. This spacer has two functions, one is to get the correct spacing for the fuel pump arm to the eccentric on the camshaft and the 2nd purpose is to insulate the fuel pump from heat. One gasket is required on each side of the spacer. Choose from phenolic plastic or billet aluminum.

He could make his own out of really really thick cereal box cardboard. 😀

Pretty sure that the spacer is described in that thread I posted. You'll have to work your way through it. If I recall right some pumps didn't have the correct distance from the eccentric or they didn't pump correctly within the range of motion of the arm. Stick it in its spot and see when the arm contacts the eccentric. You'll have to spin the engine a little bit by hand to get on and off the bump. If the arm moves through much of its motion on the base circle that might be a sign that you need the spacer. The spacer might also be part of the heat reduction program. There's a document in the Downloads area about that. carpartsmanual just shows gaskets. Don't know how thick they are. SteveJ has replied. Posting blind!!! https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/fuel-pump-tube/mechanical

Found it and another.

There is a whole long thread about bad new mechanical fuel pumps out there somewhere on the forum. Within the last 5 years I think. Worth finding, it has solutions in it. New does not mean good.

"Crank" is what the starter does to the crankshaft. First the engine cranks, then it starts. Are you saying that you have a crank - no start problem? Or a no crank problem? Edit - couldn't see your signature until I signed in. Carbs. Could be water.

Actually, I think that's the AAR port so even drier...

It's just an air/crankcase gas fitting. It's not in the liquid fuel system so can't clog the injectors. A thin piece of cardboard would work just fine. No reason for it to disintegrate. Your old yellow one is more likely to fall apart. The pieces will get just get sucked in to a cylinder and blown out the exhaust pipe. There's always silicone sealant. Probably the only reason that there is a gasket there is to keep PCV gas liquids from seeping out and making a mess.

This is the most important one. It shouldn't be an also, it should be the first thing. Have you checked for injector activation using the lights? Over here we call them "Noid" lights for some reason.

Still not clear where, exactly, you took your measurements. Maybe you have a bad ECU.

Kind of sounds like the AFM is either disconnected electrically or the vane is stuck or the spring is too tight. The ECU is not getting the signal to open the injectors for longer periods of time. Have you tried putting the other AMF on and do you get the exact same results? Can you see the counterweight move when the engine starts? It should move when the engine is cranking and even more when the engine starts. Have you checked the AFM results at the ECU connector? Do you see the 180 ohms, and the 100?

Does the tachometer needle go to zero while the engine is still running? Not clear if you're saying the tach shuts down or the engine shuts down. " it just shuts down" You might be noticing that some of us are having a hard time figuring out what you're trying to communicate. Could be a bad ignition module. Could be a bad AFM. Could be clogged fuel injectors.

It's not really clear if the engine starts and will continue to run if you keep your foot on the gas pedal. Or if it only starts then dies. If you sit in the driver's seat and hold the gas pedal partly open can you get the engine to start and continue to run?