Zed Head

I think that they're all about the same as far as performance. Changes were most likely made for emissions. What would you do differently if you had the exact specifications? The lift is the same, the valve openings and closings chnage by just a few degrees. Here's 1982.

How about making a special washer with a D-shaped hole? Squared, or slotted, or spanner-holed, whatever depending on the room available, something to grab on to. Or maybe with the spikes underneath to grab the surface, like a lock-washer. Leave it under the nut after tightening, for future removal. Koni or MSA should make them, and include them with the product.

You might have the rod to the master cylinder adjusted too long. Could also be the rod at the pedal to the booster. This can close the fluid return hole to the MC reservoir. The fluid expands and can't escape. The fluid leaking out of the switch is probably coincidence or a result of the constant pressure on a small leak. Anyway, there should be a small amount of play at the rod from the brake pedal. Easy to check first.

Something might be coming loose. Better check the things you touched when you installed the coilovers.

Where, not when. What is touching what?

Where?

If the goal was to answer the title question then the simplest answer is "neither". Nothing left to discuss. It was fun.

I have conjured up the proper term, I believe. Unnatural wood. It is wood, some would call it real wood, but is not as nature produced it. It is unnatural wood. The term acknowledges the woodness of the wheel but recognizes the state of the wood in the wheel. There are alternative words for those who don't like it. https://www.thesaurus.com/browse/unnatural

Here's some interesting discussion about nomenclature. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultured_meat

Forgot to say that this thread is a lot like the premise for Blade Runner. Do you just pretend it's real and enjoy it? Does the truth really matter? Love is love, right?

I offered a path to knowledge for those that want to know what, exactly, the steering wheel is made of. Sorry that I placed it in your philosophical discussion thread about what "real wood" is. Anybody who has actually worked with wood, real wood directly from a tree, would not consider the wheel to be made of real wood. It is made of wood, but the final product is not real wood. Just like in the construction industry, beams made of real wood glued together are not a considered or called a wood beam. They are called laminated wood beams. A fine distinction but informative. It tells you what it is. Real wood has inherent flaws, like susceptibility to swelling or rot from moisture, or shrinkage and warping from losing moisture, like in the hot environment of a car. Your continuous arguing is ironic in that you seem to want to show and protect the superior qualities of the Z car yet you're arguing that the Z's "wood" steering wheel is made of an inferior material. If it was real wood most of the wheels today wood be warped and cracked. Like real real wood wheels. People that know real wood understand its flaws and know what the term means. https://www.timber-technologies.com/wood-products/laminated-beams/

There are several different perspectives someone might have about a project like that. Reverse-engineering, a forensic analysis challenge, a training exercise for the use of characterization instruments, even an example of a "green" technology. Or an early historical example of a wood-polymer composite. If you make it apparent that you're not profiting from the work the resistance to doing it for free will be minimized. It's a cool project related to a cool car. Guaranteed to raise interest. Even better, if a writeup of the work was done, shining some light on the university, everybody wins. I would make it clear that the main question is about the type of binder used. Is the binder a synthetic polymer or is it organically derived from wood itself? One is realer than the other but neither produces 100% "real wood". The issue of whether or not it should be called real wood will be irrelevant.

It's actually a Ringo song. Post-Beatles. By Hoyt Axton. He is a fascinating guy. Many bands covered his songs. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_No_Song A different Axton cover...

A chemist could separate the wood fibers from the binder and analyze the binder. It's not complicated and probably not too expensive. Infrared analysis just needs a tiny sample. Actually might not even need separating. A chemistry student at any research university could probably get it done for free. One path to knowing. Like counting horse teeth.

Well, that's kind of a bummer. The seller paid about $8,000 for 10,000 miles and a few years of fun. Not terrible, but not an investment either. In an ideal world, fun and profit would combine.

Just a nomenclature thing here - "resin" would be considered plastic. It is most likely a petroleum derived material, similar to what surfboards and boats are made from. Ultimately, the goal was to produce a product better than either wood or "plastic" alone. Wood feel, but with the dimensional stability and moisture resistance of synthetic polymers. It is wood AND plastic and better than either alone.

There are some forum members with large collections of used parts. If you have a specific need post on the forum and see what happens. Some of them will ship to Mexico I think. Also, many people would say to avoid California Datsun. Part quality is often poor, and returns or refunds are very difficult.

Cool. You didn't actually say why you were looking, for the record. Maybe you were thinking it. You just said parts were hard to find. Good luck.

Are you looking for more performance or for a replacement? Don't forget that you'll want a whole new set of rocker arms. Plus lash pads to fit the cam. Valve train work can get expensive quickly. Good luck.

As Diseazd points out, those numbers aren't extraordinary. Looks like they extended duration but did not add any lift. Probably can't tell it from stock. Should work fine. https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/84-123-6/10002/-1

I have mentioned in the past a method that I devised. Tie a long piece of thread through the hole in the clevis pin. Tie the other end of the thread to a piece of thin flexible wire. Poke the wire up and through the clevis pin hole in the pedal, pull it through with the thread, then pull the pin up to the hole by the thread as far as you can get it. Then use a screwdriver or your fingers to maneuver the clevis pin through the hole. The thread allows you to apply some pull once you get it aimed. My pedal box was mangled from a PO who had similar problems and must have taken out his frustrations with a hammer and pliers. And I still couldn't get my hands up there easily.

It's not a complex part. It just has to fit the hole and be strong enough to clamp the center tube of the bushing in place. Germany is metric. Looks like zKars gave the dimensions in post #2. Good luck. Merry Christmas.

Might be a flip or somebody just got tired of it. Purchased on BAT 3/7/2019. Now it's back. (p.s. it has 10,000 miles added since the first sale). https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-224/ Previous - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-85/ Sold for $38,250

I'm no expert but I've always done one slow pump with the bleed screw open, close screw before end of pump, release pedal slowly so that the fluid can get in from the reservoir, repeat. Pumping 4 or 5 times doesn't really accomplish anything, I think. It might even force the bubbles in to solution in the fluid, from the pressure, or cause them to break up in to many small bubbles. Ideally, you want one big bubble sitting at the bleed screw opening, waiting to get out. Or, if I don't have a helper, I open the bleed screw, press the pedal down with a broken shovel handle through the driver's window, prop it against the seat at the bottom of the stroke, walk over and close the screw. Still a very slow pump. On the back I installed speed bleeders. They made a big difference. Again though, a very slow pump. Once the air gets out you want the hydraulic lines to refill from the reservoir, not suck back through the bleed screw or the bleed screw threads. Air has much lower viscosity than brake fluid. It moves fast.

Two common bleeding problems are having the bleed screws on the bottom on the front calipers, and having one of those disc brake swaps on the rear, with the bleed screw in a new orientation from the factory design. Air in the system shouldn't be affected by the booster. I mentioned the guy who sucked air in to the rear cylinder. Air will get past a seal much easier than liquid will get out. A description of your bleeding method might have a clue. Are you using a vacuum bleeder?