Zed Head

The connector is under the black plastic kick panel left of the driver's feet. Three screws hold the panel. Then the connector actually has a spring clip that is pressed up (I think), allowing the top, cable, end of the connector to swing out (you have to tug on the wires, they'll be okay), far enough to pull the other end of the connector off of it's little pin pivot/hinge. Then it's free. You need to pull the top end out a ways before the bottom will release. This part might require having the door open. Once you get it free you should be able to get to the pins with your meter while inside. Might be cramped though.

AND, just realized that you didn't specify which valve. One is just a straight vacuum controlled shutoff valve, the other is the flow control valve sometimes with the capillary tube.. The shutoff valve is probably the cheaper one. ZSpecialties (aka Oliver) has a selection of parts that you might need when you're under there. 240Z, 260Z, & 280Z #'s 1,2,&3 - 75-78 280 Z=3 - AC, Heating, Dash Venting 3 - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it!

Captain Obvious's solution might be an option. It will take some wrecking yard wandering. I did something similar to his, but with a valve with a 90 degree bend. If I had to redo it though, I'd locate in the engine bay like he did. There's just no room under the dash to fit the parts, let alone do the work. If you decide to try it, try to find a longer control cable along with the valve. The stock cable might not reach to the engine bay. My 76 280Z cable would have been too short. Also, almost all of the Japanese brands around his year range have some variation on the valve. Some close backwards also so you have to do some mental gymnastics about how the stock lever works. Cable retract = open. The valves are easy to get to, they're all on the firewall behind the engine. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/46899-heater-water-****-valve-relocation-project.html

What is the cylinder head water tube? Cut a picture from the internet or take one with a camera, and post it.

Make sure that there is 12 volts on each pin of the injector connectors, removed from the injector, with the key On. It will seem weird from an Electricity 101 perspective, but one side is power and the other side is the transistor circuit. Probably a pull-up circuit of some kind (unresolved in other threads). Both pins in each connector will show voltage if the ECU has power and things are correct. If you have that, then check that Pin 1 has continuity (zero or almost zero resistance) to the coil negative. Make sure that the tachometer is connected. I think that the needle should at least jump when you turn the key On or crank the engine if not show a few RPM. If you can get on the forum while you're there somebody can probably walk you through some steps once you get a few results. Take a lap top, maybe there's free wi-fi nearby.

Found an interesting video on the general topic. Redrilling for a different pressure plate. Shows the grinding process at the end.

A couple more notes to fill out the thread, might as well. The 240mm pressure late was only about 0.25" taller at the diaphragm spring surface than the 225mm. The cover itself is much more robust though. Also, whoever installed the pressure plate on the engine I removed it from only used 6 bolts, although there are 9 threaded holes in the flywheel and 9 holes to use. One way to get confused. Finally, I think that 240mm package, with all of its extra rotating mass, will slow the "reviness" of the engine. Many people have their 225mm flywheels lightened or go to aluminum to make the engine feel happier. And, maybe of most concern to everyone for future projects, these 225mm flywheels seem to be running out. The reman factories typically keep a stock of parts, that they pick up for cheap from various wrecking yards, and exchange cores, but apparently there are none left to grind. Valeo is casting brand new 240mm flywheels but that is probably only because they are used on the trucks, Pathfinders, and 300ZX's also. So in the long run, 240mm might be the only option. If you have a 225mm or come across one cheap it might be a worthwhile investment.

There is a second version of the "Bible" (New Testament?) published for 1980 that has all models covered. It's a little harder to work with because there are so many choices, but it will have specific tests for your 1978 car. XenonS130 - S130 Reference Yes, the EFI system ground wire is that black one that has its own connection to the battery negative terminal. It may be extra but you can't have too many.

You might try a local Mom and Pop auto store. I just stopped by a local Mike's Auto and he had an old dusty 225mm reman flywheel in his warehouse. He also had a brand new Valeo 240mm flywheel. I took one each of the pressure plates and confirmed that they don't drill the new Valeo's for two patterns. Not sure why somebody doesn't though, it would make stock easier to keep. Also confirmed that the 240mm pressure plate is much heavier than the 225mm. And much taller, which explains where those short throwout collars are used.

Seems odd. It's just low viscosity oil. It should just blend right in and lower the gear oil viscosity by a fraction. Side note - isn't it odd that people rub a petroleum distillate on their babies? Oil culture.

This is from the page I linked to in Post 31. Hot fire ignition.

Your 78 won't have the ballast resistor. So the Pin 1 wire will come directly from the coil, it's a blue wire. But if you have spark then the connection at the coil is okay. But here's another thing I remember - the blue wire from the coil also runs to the tachometer, as well as the ignition module. If the tachometer is disconnected, it screws up the signal to the ECU and the ECU won't do its job. So your best path is to check continuity at Pin 1 at the ECU connector and to confirm that the tachometer is connected. There's a resistor in line with the tachometer that needs to be in place. It's bundled in to the wiring so won't come loose unless someone messes around with the wiring by the fuse box.

The injectors are opened by the ECU when the ECU gets a signal from Pin #1, which is connected to the negative side of the coil. So you need spark, and you need the Pin 1 connection.

You are really getting distracted by the coil resistance. If things were getting hot from too much current you would not see the results in the middle of the RPM range, and the results of overheating are usually complete failure or temporary complete failure which fixes itself when things cool down. 1.4 ohms is close enough. 0.1 ohms is not going to make a difference. Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits, Distributors, Ignition Coils for VW, Volkswagen, Porsche, Audi, BMW, Volvo-Penta, Mercedes, Saab, Bosch, Ford, Autolite, Mallory, Prestolite, Delco, GM, Chevrolet, Honda, Nissan, Datsun

That's an odd sticker in the window of your avatar. The position of the thumb suggests a left-handed person flipping the bird to the person inside. Weird. Unless the bird is flipped backward in Sunraysia. Coriolis effect, maybe?

Interesting that the stock wheels have survived. I gave it a prohibited since auctions aren't allowed on CL.

Post #14 in the attached thread has the spring rates. Only one person has purchased Vogtland springs and posted about them (end of thread) and they were for the 280Z so part numbers may be difficult to find. Looks like they do as advertised though. New S30 Shock and Spring Option - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

The bolt clamps down on the metal sleeve of the mount bushing between the mounting ears, creating essentially a solid metal structure. It's not a precision part, so even an SAE or other non-metric thread would work. And 77 would be the same as 78. Your local Nissan dealer might be able to find it in their parts catalog if you want to stay original.

I know that when I was having a problem with my headlight switch (280Z) breaking the solder joint for the running lights I could feel the heat buildup by touching the switch area on top of the steering column. It got hot. It takes quite a bit if heat to melt/warp plastic. You might just leave the lights on for a bit and see how hot things are getting. It might be old damage, it only takes one hot moment to warp the plastic. I ended up installing relays for both the headlights and running lights on my car so the only current running through the switch now is that needed for the relay solenoids. Tiny amps.

Even with a new wire you might still have heat build-up at the connection. It's the resistance at the interface between the two wires, and the interface between the wire and the connector that produces the heat. Might be more effective to add a couple of relays on the two headlight circuits on the output side of the fuse box. That will remove most of that headlight current from the wires supplying the fuse box. I think it's the reason Dave Irwin's headlight relay kit is so popular for the 240Z's. The running/marker lights pull quite a bit of current also.

Han Solo posted about this, and someone mentioned it on zcar.com. It's 240Z number 89, apparently. Watching them talk about how it really needs new plug wires and distributor cap, and various other upgrades will make you cringe, but sill surprising that it's in such good shape. What they showed anyway. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/52869-240z-velocity-channel-friday-9-14@9p-m-et.html The video: Garage Squad: A Parked Datsun 402 : Velocity

Probably the "P" terminal. Not used. It's looking like many of the brands are getting their rebuilt alternators from the same source, and the source is standardizing to reduce stock keeping units (SKU's). Fewer SKU's makes it easier for managers to keep track of what their company is doing. Shades of Dilbert. Anyway, here's a similar thread on the topic - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/52835-alternator-upgrade-please-help.html

Find the part number here - Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual Then put it in the Search window and order it here - Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Me? I ran out of words... Had to reload.

I think that 77 might have still used the N42 head and intake. The N47 change was mid 77 and/or 78. I don't really see a patch in that picture but it might be there. It's possible that Nissan made a variation for later L6's, like the L24E. Who knows. The 76 parts would work to get the CSV back in action. You might try driving up to Mount Rainier for a night though to see if you really need it. Make sure that you use EFI rated hose to connect the rail together.