Zed Head

I think that this was mentioned on Hybridz but oil pressure is really a measurement of resistance to flow. The whole lubrication is designed such that the ~40-60 psi average reading is an indication of proper flow. It's a secondary indicator and can be misleading. It doesn't guarantee flow, it assumes it. Ideally, we'd have flowmeters in the dash showing that oil was actually going where it should. If you have a stock pump, correctly adjusted, and you get high pressure all the time, then that might mean there's a restriction of flow somewhere. For example, if you installed your crank bearings backwards (I think it's possible for a few) the oil flow passage would be blocked, and pressure would increase. Or if your port to the head was blocked, the same thing. And the rear seal is open to the crankcase. So really shouldn't be affected by oil pressure.

These engines are pretty durable when well-maintained. Here's one in your area. Wouldn't be surprised if it was fine inside if it was stored correctly. Some oil, a battery and a starter might tell something. Datsun 240Z Engine Complete An L28 would accept the L24 parts but you'd probably have to retune the carbs. 17% more displacement will add some power though. The EFI system is pretty easy to swap over also if you wanted make the switch. DATSUN STRONG RUNNING COMPLETE L28 MOTOR

That thing pops up every year or two. The extra cost to get all of the parts to make it work get you way up in dollars just to hear it run. If you don't the extra cash it's just expensive garage art. Search "Goerz Paeco head" on the web and you'll find threads here and there about it. The price seems to be dropping - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/ebay-craigslist/51132-guy-asks-14-5-k-24-valve-goerz-paeco-dohc-head.html

Your diagram makes it all clear. Thanks. Should have spent some thought on it before. I've been lazy all these years. It seems so Obvious now. Virto, if the key was On when you tested the injector plugs then you really want to go directly to the EFI fusible links, the two green ones, right off the battery positive. Look at the 1978 diagram I posted above. They feed the EFI relay and the power to the dropping resistors, which CO has shown supply both sides of the injector connectors. If you have enough juice for the buzzer, there should be enough to register on your meter at the injector connectors.

I can't say myself, because I generally describe the 12 volts on each side as "transistor weirdness". Not an authority. Sounds reasonable though, I think that you're saying the 12 volts is "backfeeding" through the transistor that controls those injectors. So it should be groups of three then. Added a diagram just for ambience. Of course, it doesn't show the transistor circuits but it does show how all injectors are powered and feed back the ECU. Added another diagram. I had a 78 that had the combined EFI/Fuel Pump relay, like 1976. Just for reference. Virto will probably not need to go that deep.

CO is right, the links could be a factor. No power to the ECU. On your 78 car, there are two green fusible links in line in a small power wire directly from the positive post of the battery. If they haven't been messed with they'll be attached to the metal framework that holds all of the relays in the engine bay. Right in front of the battery. It's possible also that the links just came unplugged, they're held in place by plastic connectors that get old and break. So, overall, you have 6 fusible links. Even if the links look good, the power checks at the ECU connector will tell you if they're working. The EFI relay is also a possibility although they really don't go bad often. It's described in the Guidebook also.

I don't know if I picked the right pipe, but your dealer might have better microfiche. You can't tell if it's really available until you place an order though. I picked #56 - Datsun 280Z Cylinder Head, Rocker Cover & Thermostat L28E PIPE WATER :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

That is a great site, thanks for sharing. I thought I knew where all of the good stuff on the internet was. I just went and pulled a 225mm flywheel from a 77 280Z in the Portland area. Couldn't pass it up, they're having a 1/2 price sale. I only went to take a look since I figured it would be more work than I wanted to do, but somebody else had already pulled the transmission (for the bellhousing apparently, the tail was still there), and the engine was tilted back with everything waiting for me. The pressure plate looked so good I got it too, it looked Nissan issue, both for $26 total. Neither needs resurfacing. Simple pleasures, collecting stuff (junk?) I don't need, easing my fear of not having a part..

The connector is under the black plastic kick panel left of the driver's feet. Three screws hold the panel. Then the connector actually has a spring clip that is pressed up (I think), allowing the top, cable, end of the connector to swing out (you have to tug on the wires, they'll be okay), far enough to pull the other end of the connector off of it's little pin pivot/hinge. Then it's free. You need to pull the top end out a ways before the bottom will release. This part might require having the door open. Once you get it free you should be able to get to the pins with your meter while inside. Might be cramped though.

AND, just realized that you didn't specify which valve. One is just a straight vacuum controlled shutoff valve, the other is the flow control valve sometimes with the capillary tube.. The shutoff valve is probably the cheaper one. ZSpecialties (aka Oliver) has a selection of parts that you might need when you're under there. 240Z, 260Z, & 280Z #'s 1,2,&3 - 75-78 280 Z=3 - AC, Heating, Dash Venting 3 - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it!

Captain Obvious's solution might be an option. It will take some wrecking yard wandering. I did something similar to his, but with a valve with a 90 degree bend. If I had to redo it though, I'd locate in the engine bay like he did. There's just no room under the dash to fit the parts, let alone do the work. If you decide to try it, try to find a longer control cable along with the valve. The stock cable might not reach to the engine bay. My 76 280Z cable would have been too short. Also, almost all of the Japanese brands around his year range have some variation on the valve. Some close backwards also so you have to do some mental gymnastics about how the stock lever works. Cable retract = open. The valves are easy to get to, they're all on the firewall behind the engine. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/46899-heater-water-****-valve-relocation-project.html

What is the cylinder head water tube? Cut a picture from the internet or take one with a camera, and post it.

Make sure that there is 12 volts on each pin of the injector connectors, removed from the injector, with the key On. It will seem weird from an Electricity 101 perspective, but one side is power and the other side is the transistor circuit. Probably a pull-up circuit of some kind (unresolved in other threads). Both pins in each connector will show voltage if the ECU has power and things are correct. If you have that, then check that Pin 1 has continuity (zero or almost zero resistance) to the coil negative. Make sure that the tachometer is connected. I think that the needle should at least jump when you turn the key On or crank the engine if not show a few RPM. If you can get on the forum while you're there somebody can probably walk you through some steps once you get a few results. Take a lap top, maybe there's free wi-fi nearby.

Found an interesting video on the general topic. Redrilling for a different pressure plate. Shows the grinding process at the end.

A couple more notes to fill out the thread, might as well. The 240mm pressure late was only about 0.25" taller at the diaphragm spring surface than the 225mm. The cover itself is much more robust though. Also, whoever installed the pressure plate on the engine I removed it from only used 6 bolts, although there are 9 threaded holes in the flywheel and 9 holes to use. One way to get confused. Finally, I think that 240mm package, with all of its extra rotating mass, will slow the "reviness" of the engine. Many people have their 225mm flywheels lightened or go to aluminum to make the engine feel happier. And, maybe of most concern to everyone for future projects, these 225mm flywheels seem to be running out. The reman factories typically keep a stock of parts, that they pick up for cheap from various wrecking yards, and exchange cores, but apparently there are none left to grind. Valeo is casting brand new 240mm flywheels but that is probably only because they are used on the trucks, Pathfinders, and 300ZX's also. So in the long run, 240mm might be the only option. If you have a 225mm or come across one cheap it might be a worthwhile investment.

There is a second version of the "Bible" (New Testament?) published for 1980 that has all models covered. It's a little harder to work with because there are so many choices, but it will have specific tests for your 1978 car. XenonS130 - S130 Reference Yes, the EFI system ground wire is that black one that has its own connection to the battery negative terminal. It may be extra but you can't have too many.

You might try a local Mom and Pop auto store. I just stopped by a local Mike's Auto and he had an old dusty 225mm reman flywheel in his warehouse. He also had a brand new Valeo 240mm flywheel. I took one each of the pressure plates and confirmed that they don't drill the new Valeo's for two patterns. Not sure why somebody doesn't though, it would make stock easier to keep. Also confirmed that the 240mm pressure plate is much heavier than the 225mm. And much taller, which explains where those short throwout collars are used.

Seems odd. It's just low viscosity oil. It should just blend right in and lower the gear oil viscosity by a fraction. Side note - isn't it odd that people rub a petroleum distillate on their babies? Oil culture.

This is from the page I linked to in Post 31. Hot fire ignition.

Your 78 won't have the ballast resistor. So the Pin 1 wire will come directly from the coil, it's a blue wire. But if you have spark then the connection at the coil is okay. But here's another thing I remember - the blue wire from the coil also runs to the tachometer, as well as the ignition module. If the tachometer is disconnected, it screws up the signal to the ECU and the ECU won't do its job. So your best path is to check continuity at Pin 1 at the ECU connector and to confirm that the tachometer is connected. There's a resistor in line with the tachometer that needs to be in place. It's bundled in to the wiring so won't come loose unless someone messes around with the wiring by the fuse box.

The injectors are opened by the ECU when the ECU gets a signal from Pin #1, which is connected to the negative side of the coil. So you need spark, and you need the Pin 1 connection.

You are really getting distracted by the coil resistance. If things were getting hot from too much current you would not see the results in the middle of the RPM range, and the results of overheating are usually complete failure or temporary complete failure which fixes itself when things cool down. 1.4 ohms is close enough. 0.1 ohms is not going to make a difference. Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits, Distributors, Ignition Coils for VW, Volkswagen, Porsche, Audi, BMW, Volvo-Penta, Mercedes, Saab, Bosch, Ford, Autolite, Mallory, Prestolite, Delco, GM, Chevrolet, Honda, Nissan, Datsun

That's an odd sticker in the window of your avatar. The position of the thumb suggests a left-handed person flipping the bird to the person inside. Weird. Unless the bird is flipped backward in Sunraysia. Coriolis effect, maybe?

Interesting that the stock wheels have survived. I gave it a prohibited since auctions aren't allowed on CL.

Post #14 in the attached thread has the spring rates. Only one person has purchased Vogtland springs and posted about them (end of thread) and they were for the 280Z so part numbers may be difficult to find. Looks like they do as advertised though. New S30 Shock and Spring Option - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ