Zed Head

The bolt clamps down on the metal sleeve of the mount bushing between the mounting ears, creating essentially a solid metal structure. It's not a precision part, so even an SAE or other non-metric thread would work. And 77 would be the same as 78. Your local Nissan dealer might be able to find it in their parts catalog if you want to stay original.

I know that when I was having a problem with my headlight switch (280Z) breaking the solder joint for the running lights I could feel the heat buildup by touching the switch area on top of the steering column. It got hot. It takes quite a bit if heat to melt/warp plastic. You might just leave the lights on for a bit and see how hot things are getting. It might be old damage, it only takes one hot moment to warp the plastic. I ended up installing relays for both the headlights and running lights on my car so the only current running through the switch now is that needed for the relay solenoids. Tiny amps.

Even with a new wire you might still have heat build-up at the connection. It's the resistance at the interface between the two wires, and the interface between the wire and the connector that produces the heat. Might be more effective to add a couple of relays on the two headlight circuits on the output side of the fuse box. That will remove most of that headlight current from the wires supplying the fuse box. I think it's the reason Dave Irwin's headlight relay kit is so popular for the 240Z's. The running/marker lights pull quite a bit of current also.

Han Solo posted about this, and someone mentioned it on zcar.com. It's 240Z number 89, apparently. Watching them talk about how it really needs new plug wires and distributor cap, and various other upgrades will make you cringe, but sill surprising that it's in such good shape. What they showed anyway. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/52869-240z-velocity-channel-friday-9-14@9p-m-et.html The video: Garage Squad: A Parked Datsun 402 : Velocity

Probably the "P" terminal. Not used. It's looking like many of the brands are getting their rebuilt alternators from the same source, and the source is standardizing to reduce stock keeping units (SKU's). Fewer SKU's makes it easier for managers to keep track of what their company is doing. Shades of Dilbert. Anyway, here's a similar thread on the topic - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/52835-alternator-upgrade-please-help.html

Find the part number here - Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual Then put it in the Search window and order it here - Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Me? I ran out of words... Had to reload.

I think that 77 might have still used the N42 head and intake. The N47 change was mid 77 and/or 78. I don't really see a patch in that picture but it might be there. It's possible that Nissan made a variation for later L6's, like the L24E. Who knows. The 76 parts would work to get the CSV back in action. You might try driving up to Mount Rainier for a night though to see if you really need it. Make sure that you use EFI rated hose to connect the rail together.

Might as well be the Debby Downer, but you would expect some damage to happen as it got levered out of the hole. Either to the tensioner parts or to the cylinder it sat in. Unless you're going to try to rig up a way to reinsert it from the top, with magnets and tape and skinny rods you'll be taking the front cover off, so you'll want to inspect the hole carefully. Should be able to poke around in the oil pan more easily then for the tensioner. And I wonder if your timing chain didn't jump a tooth or two. In this case, it's easy to imagine. Might explain why it isn't running quite right. There's a 79 ZX in the Arlington yard that you might be able to scavenge from. Row52 | 1979 Datsun 280Z

So the comments about the needles and the damper oil are about richening the fuel-air mixture, right? On an EFI engine with a potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit you would just turn the knob to add resistance, leading to more fuel, if you had this problem. Of course, that would add fuel everywhere. Anyway, if it sings under WOT and idles and revs fine, it's not likely a spark problem. Timing looks about right too, doesn't it? So, change needles to a set that add fuel at part-throttle? Just trying to learn a little carb stuff.

Thanks for the addition to the thread. The math seems to be leading to the conclusion that the typical Pallnet style aluminum rail (AN -6 size bore), with stock heat shielding, could solve the hot start problem alone. Heat dissipation is the key. Just summarizing, for anyone looking for the simplest, and probably cheapest overall solution. You can get the rails with barbs, and could even get an extra port for the CSV, keeping all of the stock functions and most of the parts. Headers and/or new injectors are probably not necessary to get rid of the problem.

1977 was still using the multi-piece rail with fuel hose to connect the pieces. Solid would be 1978 Z or 79-83 ZX. Your description of the regulator says 78 or ZX also. It's been known for people to braze a patch over the CSV hole after they cut off the tube. It's described in a few posts around the internet. The CSV is probably overkill fuel enrichment for anybody not living in Canada or the northernmost states of the USA. You might need it for a few days in the wintertime in Cashmere but worst-case you'll probably just need a few extra revolutions of the engine before it starts. The piping that you're missing is generally in the way,and the CSV injector is one more place to have a leak, that's why many people remove it. I cut mine off and capped the stub with a 5/16" compression fitting, when I had a stock rail. So now you can have it figured out and still leave it off. Best of both...

The fusible link versus amp rating topic pops up occasionally. Somewhere along the line, either Nissan made a mistake in their manuals or a translation error in color versus rating has occurred, or in what color Nissan was really referring to in their manuals. The cars were supposed to come with brown links, not read. And Brown is the smallest gauge, therefore the smallest rating. So if Green is 40, the Brown must be less than 40. Copied the page from the FSM. Apologies to anyone who's tired of hearing this. My logical brain just can't let it go... Edit - and just to make it more confusing, MSA now has a diagram for the links on their site. But they use a brown color to show where their red links go. They chickened out! http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4336 And just to round things out, the atlanticz site shows the red as 0.69^2, but the FSM's say 0.3^2. So are the MSA links 0.69 or 0.3? Regardless of color, it's a confusion. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/

Both MSA and the eBay seller are re-selling factory Nissan parts. In other words, all three are the same part. MSA's mark-up is much more reasonable, and customer service probably better. Not to take a sale from MSA, but it is a small sale, you could probably get this directly from a Nissan dealer.

Not really sure what this is? Is it described somewhere else? How does the coat hanger differ from what you removed? My locks have the same cold versus hot problem. Cold weather makes everything hard to move.

It has a battery in it so maybe it will turn over. Might be worthwhile to take your own battery and some tools so that you don't get the last minute "darn it the battery's dead" excuse for not checking electrical and engine condition. A locked up engine, or weird noises, are good for negotiating. Good to know in any case. But, on the other hand, sometimes not being able to hear the engine turn over is a better tool for talking price down. Depends on how important an engine is to you on if you want to know or not. The pictures look good but I always wonder when they only show one side. There doesn't seem to be any reason not to show the passenger side also.

I almost never look at the Classifieds. I like the Hybridz.org method also. I use What's New? to see what's happening too.

The Vogtland springs seem like a possibility. Not stock, but only one inch+ lower. Here's a fairly recent thread on them. You'll have to click through some links to other forums and web sites to get a good view of where they're at. Looks like they just worked some bugs out of the ordering process. Edit - here's a more direct link http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117631-new-s30-shock-and-spring-option/page-2#entry1118171

55 is a pretty low profile on your tires. You're probably going to have to choose between looks and ride quality.

So the summary might be that you had one instance of the car not starting at all, and whatever the problem was went away? But since then it's been starting fine. You are essentially all stock, including injectors, except for headers. So, headers might be a simple one component solution to the problem. Possibly due to reduced heat-holding mass by the injector bodies. Thanks for reporting back. Things will get clear, piece-by-piece. At least there will be a few potential solution paths to try for anyone that can't stand it anymore. For the record, my 14mm, o-ring, 1990, high impedance 4 hole valve injectors on a straight-shot aluminum fuel rail haven't had a problem and it's been up in the 90's and high 80's on a regular basis here. Odds are it's just the aluminum rail and its extra fuel volume dissipating heat, as the fuel vaporizes from the injectors and recools in the rail (Fastwoman's heat-pipe theory).

The battery was installed correctly and things worked right before you removed the battery and put a new one in, so odds are you connected the new one backward. I have seen batteries with the positive and negative terminals reversed. If you didn't match the - sign on the battery with the cable that connects to a starter mounting bolt, and the + sign with the cable that connects to the starter solenoid (where the other wires also connect) then you probably just got your poles switched. Find the + and the - on the battery top and make sure that they're connected correctly.

I've never heard of adjustable Tokico's that weren't Illuminas. Have you adjusted them down to the softest setting? That would be the first thing to do. Do you have low profile tires? Tire sidewall is the first line of shock absorption. Old stiff tires could be a factor also. Poly bushings probably would make for a harsher ride, especially if the small ones at the wheel side of the control arm were done. But I have poly on the inside, rubber on the outside, with 205-70-14 tires and my ride is not harsh, but firm. That's a 280Z with cut springs in the front and Tokico springs in the back, with KYB shocks.

From my past, limited, experience with small block chevys (actually V8's in general), I remember that many dual plane manifolds don't completely separate each side I think it might be to moderate the pressure pulses or to make both sides available at high flow rates. Anyway, I don't think the sides of the carburetor are completely isolated. Some of the aftermarket manifold actually have a slot cut at the top of the divider. You can find pictures on the web. Plus, at idle, much of the fuel air mixture is just hanging around waiting for the next intake cycle, so if the sides are connected you would get some blending. Of course, if you have a tunnel ram manifold, I think it's just one big hole under the carburetor. Does he have headers? The chevy exhaust manifolds were pretty bad. When I replaced stock manifolds with headers, the idle smoothed out considerably. I don't know anything about Edelbrock carbs. Actually, not much about any carbs.

This car was running last year right? The 9 years is previous. Isn't this somebody else on Jenny's account? Still Jenny's car though. Kind of confusing on what's going on here. Anyway, on your noise/vibration from the console area - that's about where the propeller shaft u-joint is, along with the slip-yoke to the transmission. You might check the yoke for play when you're under there, grab it and shake, and the u-joint also. You'll need to pry that one around with a screwdriver to see if it's loose. Look for signs of rust and dryness. And when draining the fluid, level puts the drain plug at the bottom I believe. And puts the fill plug at the right spot. No real need to tilt the front or back independently. And the fluid will expand a lot when hot or warm, so don't be surprised if a bunch comes out if you remove the fill plug first. Which is always a good idea, just to be sure that you'll be able to refill it, before you drain the fluid.

Call this place, or send a message (see the About US or Contact Us links at the lower left of the front page). Oliver is the owner, he can find one or tell you where to get one. Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it!