Zed Head

You didn't give enough detail to give a good answer. Can't tell if the coupe is the L28, or the turbo, or if you have two cars, or just one car and two engines...etc. The flywheels will all bolt up, but the pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing collar all need to match in order to work properly.

You have at least one bad fusible link, maybe more. But, the only links I see in your pictures are what might be the EFI harness links (two green ones), which would power the injectors and the ECU. They fail internally, so squeezing and taping them won't work, they have to be replaced. I don't even see the other four links. Did someone replace them with fuses? I don't see year of car either so I just copied a picture from 1978.

Article, not a survey... Manufacturing moving from China to US: survey

I've never done any of these. But here's a few comments for discussion. 1. remove the head and check it and the pistons/rings - removing the head and checking its parts for wear should be pretty easy. You can check the cylinder bores for wear, at least the ones that have the pistons down, but you can't tell much about the rings and pistons with just the head off. This is assuming that you plan to do only the head and have locked the tensioner in place, so can't spin the crankshaft. 2. re-ring the pistons - requires removing the oil pan and rod end caps to get the pistons out. But, ideally, the cylinders would be honed, which, ideally, means the crankshaft is out also to make room and keep things clean. People do replace just rings, but it's a halfway job. 3. rebuild the head - depends on how worn things are. Valve seats, valve guides, valve seals. 4. refresh timing components - easy, it's all bolt-on stuff. 5. full rebuild - what patcon said, but from what I've seen on the various forums, it's hard to find a shop that really knows what they're doing. Many seem to make mistakes on shaving the head, installing the cam and rockers, keeping parts in order, etc. Plus the fact that aftermaket parts don't seem to last very long. Just some thoughts, open to criticism. I keep seeing threads from people who seem to know what's needed but can't find a shop to get the work done right. "New" engines or assemblies destroying themselves in relatively few miles.

"Vapor lock", maybe better described as the "hot start" problem, happens when things get really hot. Five minutes is barely warm. The "waited 10 minutes" part means something. Is it really 10 minutes or does one just seem like ten? One could be a fuel feed problem, ten is more likely something cooling down. Someone posted on this recently, maybe you're just reposting (?). But one possibility on the dual pickup cars, is a bad advance control circuit in the ignition module. You could test by shorting the water temperature pins so the the engine always seemed cold to the ignition module, and always used the advanced pickup. I think that I posted a different solution last time, I'm not 100% clear on what happens inside the module. Shorting the switch should work though if that's the problem, locking in the advanced pickup control. Edit - remembered the reason for the PO's solution on my car. On mine, one of the pickups was bad. So the PO wired them together so the module always used the same pickup, no matter what circuit the module was using. So, it could be the "late" pickup or the circuit in the module. If you only have one pickup, this is irrelevant.

I would pull the glove box first and get a good light in on the hoses. If it's just hoses then you can pull the heater fan and its motor and do that work instead of messing with the heater core. MY 76 still had the original hoses and they were almost porous. No actual big leaks, they just seeped coolant through the pores that had opened up.

If you have a DC hertz (DC Hz) setting you can get some numbers and do math. Your coil will fire 3 times per crankshaft revolution, and the meter should pick it up from the coil negative to ground. I've used my Fluke 115 that way to determine that my tach was off by 200 RPM. The tachometer function on a higher grade meter probably uses the same measurement but does the math for you.

This is from Hybridz, but people here might be more interested - L24 Motor and Tranny $100 - Parts for Sale - HybridZ

You should start your own thread and put a little more work in to describing the problem. Can't tell what the question is. The caps and exclamation points don't really add anything.

1973 240z

Found another Vizard article where he shows actual dyno results with a module change (stock coil though, apparently). Above 5000 RPM (V8 engine, = 6,667 L6 RPM), he shows a dramatic change. But he's still promoting MSD and Performance Distributor products. Just odd that there's not more out there on this. Chart #9: Twelve Engine Output Tips - Dandy Dyno Dozen - Stock Car Racing Magazine All Pages

Re Post #10 - there's apparently more to the intent of the thread than just a rant about product quality. It explains my cognitive dissonance though. It can lead to whole separate discussions easily, you can get in to Imperialism, and Isolationism and all kinds of other isms. It can get messy. To the quality issue - it would be nice to keep track of what's good and what's bad. I have an Airtex E8312 fuel pump on my car that's worked fine for probably 50,000 miles. With no prefilter. Just saying, there is some good coming from there. (Pretty sure it was made there but not positive).

I've always wondered where the 4500 RPM limit "rumor" about GM's HEI module came from and finally found the source, in a book David Vizard authored called "How to Build Max-Performance Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget". The relevant pages are actually available on the internet - [h=1][/h] How to Build Max-Performance Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget - David Vizard - Google Books I was a little disappointed after reading all of the the various things that Vizard has written. In the end it seems like he's using the old technique of selling aftermarket products by pointing out "flaws" in existing product. I think that he started by selling MSD product, then went to DUI distributors. He even plugged Pertronix in one article. In some of his latest stuff he's lowered the "weakness" limit to 3300 RPM. Ignition Systems Cheat Sheet for the Chevy Small Block Small-Block Engine Build - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine Page 3 Looks like he's "currently" selling Blue Pheonix Plasma stuff - He's selling oil additives here - Oil Extreme Just filling in some gaps before I lose all of the links. If you read some of his original writing, it reads like good science but is short on actual measurements. The weak spark limit seems to be a supposition based on "module voltage output". He never actually measured if there was a misfire, just said that there should be. For the record...

Check the T plug, specifically the S wire. Maybe it has lost contact at the alternator. While you're there, make sure it reads battery voltage with the engine off. Use your meter.

Now that you're done kicking the dog, do you think the problem was solely because of the pump quality or was there rust running through it? Why did you install the filter? In other words, do you think a Made in America (or Canada) electric fuel pump would have lasted longer? The next level of constructivity would be to suggest a better electric pump. for those that don't have a supply of old mechanical pumps. Just trying to end with more information that people can use. Mr. Gasket = bad, what = good?

See what you can reach with it just sitting on the ground. You might be surprised.

Fluke Corporation is an interesting example of how the off-shore manufacturing model could work. I bought mine about seven years ago, a lower-end 115 model. I just looked to see if it had any "Made in..." markings but all it says is "Designed in USA". Not Made. It's of very high quality. But it was more expensive than most other options.

Constructive - give us the brand name so that we can avoid the product. Nonconstructive - vague generalization about country of origin.

I got sucked in to this conversation, so would like to end with something more constructive, along the lines of the car-based advice we all tend to give to new members. There is no simple solution. You just have to put the work in to get the results. Complaining doesn't get anyone anywhere, and just makes everybody involved feel crappy.

Doesn't matter how you word things if you want people to join you in simplistic thinking. I'll bet that G2 filter he threw on there was made in China. Rationalize that.

I had a double post here, but why waste a good reply. Here's something funny to think about. The people complaining here are the same type that will complain about how expensive and hard-to-get things are when trade with China is tariff'ed down to nothing. That's how business works. The reason we can all run down to the one of three or four auto parts stores , open 'til 8 every night, and pick up a new part for a few dollars is China. That's fun to think about. Future thread - RIPOFF Parts stores. "I went down to the only parts store in town, which is only open 10 -2, and had to pay $10 for my part that used to cost $2. What a rip! Stupid American union workers!!! I'm going to start importing black market parts from China. We need to do something about these overpaid ripoff American companies!"

The throwout bearing collar, which is what i think you mean by clutch sleeve, matches the pressure plate (aka clutch cover). It really has nothing to do with anything else. The reason is that different pressure plates can have the contact surfaces for the spring levers different distances from the flywheel surface. The collar height ensures that that the clutch fork will will sit at the right angle for the slave cylinder's range of motion. That's probably why many kits come with new collars even though they don't really get much wear. Forgot to say that the various liquid volumes needed is in either the Owners' Manual, the GI chapter, or the Tuneup chapter (maybe). Pretty sure it's in GI. You'll probably need a little less, because not all of it will drain out.

Leave the wheel on the ground, or on roll-on lifts when you do the work. Suspension loaded. The holes will all align without much work. The control arm will move back and forth pretty easily with the TC rod unattached. If you try to do the work with the wheel hanging that's when you'll run in to problems with load on the TC rod and hole alignment. The two sleeves are clamped between the washers, and the rubber sits between. The rubber is not really clamped like the other suspension rubber, so no need to install passengers and/or load the suspension before final torquing. Remove the old parts, stick a washer, the sleeve and some rubber on the end of the rod, slide it in to its hole, fiddle around with the two bolts at the link to get them to drop in, tighten the two bolts, then stick the rubber, the washer, the small washer, and the nut on the end of the rod. Torque it down and you're done. If your car is not lowered much you can do it all in the driveway.

This guy did some really nice work with an S52. I have no idea what the BMW variations are, or mean. rt260, BMW M Powered - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ

Did you inhale some air through it?