Zed Head

Did you grind off the peened area of the nut? Fuel pump? A least you're not trying to hold to the "rational changes to fit the tires" model anymore. Have fun.

You really should measure voltage, before going too far. No power, no spark. And the voltage measured will depend more on whether or not the ignition module is passing current, than the ballast resistor. There is a troubleshooting guide out there about Pertronix modules. It's not very good though. There's actually better troubleshooting info in the installation instructions. You'll need the model number of your module. Troubleshooting Tips (Ignitor) PerTronix Instruction Sheets

The Bar's material stays in gooey blob form. It just travels around, occasionally getting sucked in to a leak area, hopefully sealing it. Leak solutions are messy looking, just like the leaks. Most of them also contain lubricants for the water pump seals also. Not meant to be observed, just sealed in and left to work.

Yes, the screws are removed, replaced with Zerk fttings, grease applied, then screws re-inserted. Take some time to find a socket that will fit the Zerk fittings, you might have to grind one down to fit in the tight area. Even the screws will be difficult to remove, make sure you use a good-fitting screwdriver and don't strip the slot. They can be very tight. You'll probably use the same Zerk fitting so just buying a range of small, fine-thread Zerk fittings will probably get you there. Sometimes you'll actually find a short one that is left in place. Also, you might have to grind the sides of your grease gun tip to get it to fit in the tiny space of the u-joint. Or find a thin wall tip. Or, just take the screw out and use a rubber tipped nozzle to insert the grease. Then you won't need a Zerk fitting.

Are these solid state regulators or the old mechanical type? Maybe your alternator is frying the solid state regulators with voltage spikes from bad internals. Is your alternator case grounded well?

Now you're changing your story. Or you didn't read the link you posted, person. From the Wiki link (bold italics mine) - "It occurs when the liquid fuel changes state from liquid to gas while still in the fuel delivery system. This disrupts the operation of the fuel pump, causing loss of feed pressure to the carburetor or fuel injection system," On a progressive (as in making progress) note, I'm 80% of the way to trying out some 1990 era injectors, of the four hole, high impedance type. Just to see if any design improvements happened along the way. I notice that the high impedance injector pop open with less voltage, even though resistance is higher. More windings, I think (another area I don't know well though, like transistors). If it's a mechanical binding problem, or solenoid resistance increasing due to heat, maybe more opening force will help. Hopes aren't high but I think it's worth a shot. I'm bypassing the resistor pack so there's a lot of new happening.

There's very little rational reason to own these old cars, no matter how you look at it. I just accept the fact that I'm spending time and money on something I don't need, because I enjoy it. Here's another option for adjustable coilovers. Don't know the timing, sometimes these things never end up actually happening. ***** BC Racing coilovers for S30 ( Whats the interest? ) ***** - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ

I get involved in some threads just for the logic challenge. Like solving a puzzle. You did ask for advice, and I tend to be very literal. The rationale for the GC kit, supposedly, is to get the 225 width tires under the fenders. That's a lot of time and money spent just to fit a wide tire. You might be able to have the fender lips rolled for a few dollars, get some spacers or a different offset rim, and keep everything stock. If that was a possibility, would you do it, or would there be some other reason to get the GC kit? I'm betting that you'll find another reason to get the GC kit. Matching expenditures on various car areas makes no sense at all. I spent a lot on the engine so I must spend a lot on the suspension? Not logical. If you're just having fun modifying the car, then you'll get a lot more love and advice over on Hybridz. There's nothing wrong with doing it, just come out and say that's what you want to do. I'll bow out now. It's your money and your car.

Do you have AC? Pretty common for the bearing in the tensioning idler pulley to go bad. It's easily replaced, and the bearing is a common one, readily available. You can run the engine for a short while with no belts. The battery will power the EFI, and it won't overheat for the few seconds necessary to listen for noises, with no coolant pushed from the water pump.

Just want to make sure you didn't overlook this comment. You seem to be doing it for the bling, not to make a better car. Not to be negative, but you did start the thread seeking opinions.

It looks like you really want to go with the adjustable coilovers and camber. But if you decide to wait a while, or realize that your budget isn't quite ready, here's another, less expensive option - New S30 Shock and Spring Option - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

You are right. I should have done this three or four years ago. Although it has been interesting battling the old XP to keep things working. Kind of like working on an old fuel injection system.

It doesn't look there's any benefit as far as choice of shock. All you'll be getting is the adjustable height from a lower starting point and adjustable camber. From the GC site - "This kit fits 70-74 Datsun 240 and 260 Z WELD with stock, Sachs, Boge, Tokico Premium Performance, Tokico Illumina, Koni, or KYB shocks (please specify shock type before ordering)." Those are all typical Z car shocks, from low budget Rockauto type to the type that aren't available anymore (Tokico). And you have to supply your own. So you'll still be looking for shocks, just shorter ones, when you get the parts back. It's a problem.

Please give more definition of "vapor lock". I don't understand what you mean by the term. What, in detail, is happening?

Re "coilovers" - it's everybody's right to follow the herd if they want to. You didn't really say that you were going with the camber plates. I think that you can do adjustables without the camber plates. There are also bolt-on styles out there. Still not clear on if you're saying that there are more shock options with the GC units or just the same choices. You might get on to Hybridz and check out the Stance system that someone just worked worked up. He's a member here also but probably doesn't think of classiczcars as a good market for the product. Has the bolt-on camber plates also. Sakura Garage Stance USA Coilover Kit - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

Nice work, from a phone. The struts are not number-matched, so could probably be fairly easily sourced in the future if someone decided to restore your car. The bigger question for restoration is "what happened to the original engine?". By the way, all of these cars have "coilovers". What you're having done is adding adjustable spring perches, and shortening the strut tube so the damper (aka shock) will have acceptable travel when the spring perch is lowered. It's funny that everyone keeps calling them "coilovers". It's kind of a nonsensical word. Are there more damper varieties available with the shorter tube? Is the top mount different with the GC kit? I don't know myself, but it would be a consideration. Tokico is gone entirely.

Sorry, but I can't remember exactly which I used. It only worked for a while then extruded itself out of the leak area, leaving a small mound of stop-leak at the spot. I should have mentioned that before. Have you been on the web site? They have a guide, based on leak type. Click on Cooling under Not sure .... Good luck, I see that yours has been dribbling for a while, based on the stain pattern. Bar's Leaks & Rislone - Premium Automotive Chemicals

Too funny. I've seen that post often over here. When parts replaced in July 2012 are NEW, you know the post has been around for a while.

This guy from Atlanta posted on the Portland Craigslist. 1978 Datsun 280z, 28,534 miles

Without a machine you either have to do some detective work on the parts and part numbers, or test advance while it's on the engine, with a timing light. The weights for the centrifugal advance have numbers stamped on them which indicate full advance level. But the springs determine rate of advance. The vacuum can is hard to to identify. The parts place distributors have mild curves I believe, so that no engine damage will occur from too much advance. but if you get a factory distributor from about an 81-83 distributor you might get some pretty high advance numbers. It's one of those dilemmas. One small advantage of the HEI module swap, in that you keep your stock curves. Some of the members have recently installed programmable electronic distributors from a new supplier, 123ignition. You're in that zone of time, money, and complexity decisions.

That would be the stronger Borg Warner T-5 transmission, FS5R90A. You can see it in the FSM, MT chapter. It's not a direct swap in to a 240Z, like the Nissan 5 speed is. It will need some transmission mount work and a shortened driveshaft, I believe.

Thanks for all the feedback. I went with Windows 7 Home Premium (Amzon ~$99), a newer version of Microsoft Office (Craigslist from a local IT guy who gets paid in software occasionally, $40) and ~$21 worth of newer faster memory from an Amazon source (2GB total). Windows 7 is about like an improved version of XP if you turn off the Aero stuff. The increased, faster memory made a big difference. Good for another 5 1/2 years, for about $160. Barring old component failure (my CPU cooling fan is attached with a long zip tie).

I think that sscanf is right, the technology of the system was improved by 1979. The ballast resistor is gone, for example, so more current through the coil for a better spark. Plus, the cost of just the old technology module is more than the newer module and distributor combined. Same topic though - you could keep your old distributor and wire in a GM HEI module and GM HEI coil for less money (~$25 total) than either for probably equivalent technology. But if you need a distributor, you might as well go with the ZX system. The ZX way is easier to wire in also. Don't forget to check the advance curves on a new distributor.

It worked for me on a bigger leak at the back of the head. Mine actually dripped down the back of the engine while warming up. If you just have seepage, the odds are good. Bar's seems to be the popular one.

Just to be clear, you might need to seal the bottom tube also, to be sure. There are two passages in the manifold itself, the valve on top controls the flow between them. The plate will seal the passage but if the wall between has holes, it won't matter. You'll see how it works when you take the valve off the top. Look inside and you might see some damage. Just an improbable possibility.