Zed Head

Do you have the part numbers? For future reference.

You probably want something in the rubber hardness range, like tire hardness. Pretty vague, but I mean not jelloey and not super hard urethane. I think that the way it works is it distributes the movement from the pedal and booster to the master cylinder. As you push the brake pedal some of the movement is absorbed by the rubber disc. That's why when it's gone, you get the on-off feel. If you go too soft and jelloey, you might get a good feel until the rod bottoms out through the disc then you'll be back to off-on. If you go too hard you'll just get a less-pronounced off-on feel. Just a guess. The weird names that Nissan gives parts have some clues in them though.

Are you using the 1976 EFI system or 1979? They have significant differences. Also, 76 or 79 (or other) distributor? Which ignition module? 76 has two timing circuits, for example. And the 79 engine might have a few funky temperature actuated vacuum valves on the intake and thermostat housing. I've actually never seen this problem described, with normal - high idle - normal. I've seen normal - low - normal, but not your scenario.

I rewired the door switch and buzzer to the running light power circuit. A tap from the output side of the light switch through the buzzer and door switch to ground. No more running back to the car to turn the lights off and save the battery. Here in overcast Oregon, with my dull brown paint, I tend to drive with lights on in the daytime. I had to replace the stock buzzer with a Radio Shack unit though. The original was physically damaged for some reason.

Have you checked the fusible link? The green one that's sitting out in the open in your second picture? So close you could stick it with a meter probe. The headlight circuit wires are all red with stripes or white.

When is the last time the engine ran? Puff-puff-puff while cranking might be an intake valve stuck open or an exhaust valve not opening. Or a leak at the manifolds. Are you sure everything is tight?

You most likely don't need them. You could have a big leak and still maintain pressure in the bar. Do you mean rotational play around the sprocket bolt center? That would change cam timing, but +/- 1 or 2 degrees probably wouldn't be a huge deal. The adjustment holes are 4 degree increments, so Nissan expects a 4 degree range over the life of one adjustment cycle. The bolt is supposed to supply the clamping force to stop slippage, not the dowel. The dowel's purpose is probably locating the sprocket and stopping it from moving while tightening the bolt. If you want to get fairly exact on cam timing you can line up the notch and groove, then tighten the sprocket bolt.

There's a procedure in the FSM, using resistance measurements. But an easier way might be to just to fog it up and apply battery voltage to the terminals. It's one grid, positive on one tab, negative to the other. Polarity doesn't matter.

You could also put a little extra twist in the flat rod that connects the cylinder to the electrical portion. Two pairs of pliers will do it. I had the same problem.

Connect a jumper wire to the small connector on the solenoid (the one that can be pulled off by hand, yellow wire) and hold it to the battery positive post. That should actuate the solenoid, causing its plunger to move, which should then actuate the motor relay and drive the starter gear in to the flywheel. It's what the ignition switch does. It sounds like what you're jumping at the solenoids is just bypassing the solenoid's internal relay. Jumping the solenoid directly from the battery will tell you if the starter is good or bad, then you can focus forward or backward from there.

"78 Datsun 280Z 5spd w/ A/C Comes with tarp and bands to cover leaky area. Apologies if this car is a member's. It's a 78. Even the 240Z classics are't getting close to $10,000.

Way back when I remember seeing seeing general guidelines on sizing o-rings based on the gap they were sealing. They're supposed to compress a certain amount but not fill the gap. The circumference is not meant to stretch much at all, the point is to just gap-filling. The proper word for the purpose is "gland", I believe. So really, you should be measuring the metal parts, not the rubber, to size the ring. Found a few references but there's a ton more out there. You could spend some quality fun time just studying the possibilities. eFunda: Introduction to O-Rings Gland Dimensions http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD%205700%20Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf

There are two types of temperature "sensors" on the Z and ZX thermostat housings. One is typically called a sender and has one connector on it usually a bullet style, using the threads in the housing to ground the circuit. It's used for the temperature gauge. The other has two pins in an EV1 style connector (like the injectors use) and is used by the ECU to know the coolant temperature. You might want a temperature switch instead. Or if the Spal fan has its own temperature measuring circuitry then you'll need to use one that is compatible with it. There are different types among the various car manufacturers and they have different curves. Old Nissan sensor might not be on their list.

Edit - This stuff, designing and fabricating, is harder than it looks. And there is no real volume to be tapped to speak of for these specific parts, so price elasticity doesn't really apply. Take the pictures and your car in to a shop and see what they would charge. Who knows.

Someone took the time to figure out the proper dimensions, put them to paper, get them fabricated or did them themselves, and is offering the results of their work. Try it yourself and come back with your price. Maybe you'll make a few dollars.

That seems a little bit vague and general. If you have the 260Z distributor it's set up for carbs, if you have a ZX distributor with the side module it might have a high advance vacuum system designed for emissions engines. If you have one of the 280Z distributors there are essentially two sets of advance curves, high vacuum, low centrifugal for the EGR systems and vice-versa for the earlier non-EGR. Just saying, it seems like there could be more attention there. It's all part of the fun though.

I think that the early 260Z's might have had R180's. Which might use the plug-in half shafts. Those parts in your link are half-shafts for an R200. The shafts are the same length. It's been studied and verified. The distance between diff and hub is different though, probably where the misconception started. You need to get under your car and see what you have. Pictures will tell the story. And the welded diff would not be helping with parts durability. The early Z axles are kind of weak also. Betamotorsports.com used to have some good information on both the weak 240Z axles and the halfshaft length issue. But the site is gone and the Facebook page doesn't seem to have them either. Maybe johnc could bring them back to life. Edit - actually the stories and pictures might be on Facebook somewhere. Facebook is all about getting you to click ads though so it's difficult to organize. Troll through the content and it might be found. https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670

Clutch kit and flywheel. Make a list of the installation steps, in order, and you'll realize what you'll need to replace or upgrade at each step. You might need/want to recurve your distributor also, or at least check that the curves are right. A Rebello motor probably likes different timing than a stock motor.

A look in the FSM's shows that they are different. I have a 280Z so kind of forget about the early 4 speeds, which were used with the 3.36 rear diff ratios, generally. 3.592 1st vs. 3.321. They all have a 1:1 4th gear though, so probably quicker but not faster. Here's the ratios from the FSM's (MT chapter), looks like the 260Z 4 speed would be the one, if 3-4 closeness trumps: 260Z - 3.592, 2.246, 1.415, 1 280Z - 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1

If the 5 speed is pre-1980.5 it will have the same 1-4 ratios as the 4 speed. The 77-80.5 5 speeds were just the old 4 speeds with an extra gear added. If it has two exhaust hangers on the tail-shaft housing it's the pre-1980.5 5 speed.

How does 5th gear do? It shares half the shaft, on the backside of the adapter plate, and a shift fork, with reverse.

Those are wheel axles, and companion flanges, and an odd part. Looks like the companion flanges might be adapters for turbo ZX four-bolt CV half-shafts. I saw your other post and you might want to re-word it. The half-shaft is the drive shaft between the wheel and the differential. One on each side. Typically has u-joints on each end, up until the later ZX's when they went to CV joints.

Even if someone suggests a destination for those wires you should check the integrity with a meter. Just to make sure they really go there and that they're not shorted on the way. Meter lead at choke mechanism, meter lead at wire end, lead at defrost mech, at connector, etc. There are wiring diagrams out there on the web. Not the greatest but might get you closer. Datsun Service Manuals - NICOclub Z Tech Tips Electrical (AtlanticZ.ca)

You'll lose points at the concourse with the ZX nuts. But you'll have an easier time in the future if you ever decide to install an adapter flange for CV axles or 5 lug wheels. ZX nuts give you flexibility. Plus the fact, although unlikely, that your new bearings are damaged and need another replacement. You might need to remove them again. I vote for the ZX nuts just in case the axle needs to come out again.

I meant first appearance in 77. It was there for 78, looks like it's gone again for the ZX models, 79 and on. So two years. Could be that CA's stricter emissions standards made it necessary.