Zed Head

I've had a couple of stock spring sets off and they were black with a colored stripe, about one inch wide. I assume the color had some meaning. Red might be Tokico. It's a bright red. I would test a section of paint with some acetone, MEK, or similar and see if the black is soluble. Don't know for sure but the manufacturers probably use a two-part epoxy or urethane, or a powerdercoat, that wouldn't be soluble. If you're lucky the white ID numbers are two-part also. 5022-F and -R are the 280Z Tokico lowering spring numbers. The stock 77 springs jack the back of the car up pretty high. If your springs were stock you would probably notice.

jfa supplied a link in Post #2. The specs are on Planet Bulb's site. I assumed hours, based on other bulb specs, but it might be minutes! That would be a little over a day though, so unlikely. The model is A 72.

Definitely not Z weather in the Portland OR area. This is coming on top of the foot of slightly melted and refrozen snow - ...FREEZING RAIN ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM 4 AM TO NOON PST MONDAY FOR THE PORTLAND AND VANCOUVER METRO AREA..

If you didn't put a new bend in the spring end for the perch seat then you ended up at the same height with the same number of active coils. You just cut the seat of the spring off. The picture of the cut piece kind of shows that. Easy to miss since "coil" is a fairly generic word.

Could you connect power and give it a test? Or test unpowered to see if is grounded, either directly or through a device (60 ohms is a typical device resistance). If you find power you could remove fuses until it goes away.

Look here at the bottom of the Motorcycle Tank section. There may be other rust removers that can be sprayed also, this is just one description I found. Evapo-Rust rust remover description page Here's the click-through: Evapo-Rust rust remover chassis testimonial I think that you could make a solution of Naval Jelly and paint it on also. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm

Check out the bid history. Starting price was $500. I think that's what they would have taken for it. People are paying for the name. Edit - actually the car doesn't look too bad. Might be worth $6-7000 to the right person. Anyone know what the little mini-console is next to the driver's right knee? i***0 ( 13Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $6,760.00 Feb-06-14 16:40:12 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $6,660.00 Feb-07-14 05:01:02 PST i***0 ( 13Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $5,000.00 Feb-06-14 16:10:07 PST p***d ( 42Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $3,502.00 Feb-06-14 14:06:28 PST f***g ( 950Feedback score is 500 to 999) US $2,777.41 Feb-06-14 15:56:31 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $2,666.00 Feb-06-14 12:41:13 PST e***u ( 50Feedback score is 50 to 99) US $2,300.00 Feb-06-14 12:51:56 PST o***o ( 46Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $2,225.25 Feb-06-14 12:38:36 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,666.00 Feb-06-14 12:41:00 PST l***i ( 100Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,550.50 Feb-06-14 10:52:17 PST 1***a ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,500.00 Feb-06-14 12:37:36 PST y***r ( 401Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $899.00 Feb-06-14 12:32:48 PST e***u ( 160Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $797.77 Feb-06-14 12:30:27 PST e***h ( 308Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $777.77 Feb-06-14 10:42:42 PST p***u ( 591Feedback score is 500 to 999) US $750.00 Feb-06-14 08:36:33 PST 4***e ( 1141Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) US $560.00 Feb-06-14 08:56:43 PST Starting Price US $500.00 Feb-06-14 08:30:00 PST

Maybe you have bad connection on the S wire. The internal regulator uses the S wire to set output, raising output until S is at the set point. You can test it by running a jumper from the S terminal directly to the battery positive or the starter solenoid lug. If voltage drops to normal, then your S wire has a bad connection. I've had a bad connection right at the T connector on the alternator. You might just clean that up and make sure it's tight also.

How about a link? Found it. Search Gas Monkey on eBay. Looks like they've been hauling garbage in it, full white trash bags in the passenger compartment. Even the pros can make a bad For Sale picture. I don't really see the water damage. Only one picture from underneath, can't tell. It has an R180 diff. Offer half, it's the Gas Monkey way. Then split it and you're at $4,500. Still might be high for an old stock 260Z with a four-barrel. Need more info.

I'll plug one in to a spare tachometer that I have along with a factory bulb and compare. Should be able to get a good idea of fit and a picture. They're shipping ground so it will probably be late next week.

18 degrees F, snowing and wind gusts in the 20's, in the Portland OR area. Not too extreme but unusual. Many car accidents.

Just ordered 2 boxes, $14.19 total. Probably should have got three. Shipping was $9.99. The LEDs look tempting, especially considering the power savings at idle and longevity. But inexpensive wins out today. And the Eikos are rated at 4000 hours. They look good. Thanks for the recommendations.

jfa, thanks for the info and the link. FastWoman had referenced that bulb (the Eiko bulb) also in another thread. That's a great price. I assume that the bulb doesn't look like the picture, since they seem to be showing a Sylvania 53 bulb, probably just for shape. How was ordering from Plant Bulb? SteveJ, where did you use the LED bulbs? Gauge illumination? I used a clear LED although I wanted a diffuse style. They were out of those. And which did you use, they have several options? From what I've seen, and when i was first looking for bulbs a few years ago, the BA9S options of the right size bulb come and go. The only ones I could find recently were either 1 or 1.25 watts. Many of the online higher wattage options were out of stock. Also, many bulbs that look correct are just low durability, low hour flashlight bulbs. Hard to find a good option that will give the right light and last long.

Here's a link to JMortensen's diff opus. Says the R160 is a straight bolt-in swap for an R180. Also has a comment about capacity. Differential / CV / LSD / HP / Torque / R160 / R180 / R200 / R230 / Diff Mount - Drivetrain - HybridZ

Since the u-joints are replaceable I wonder if you could combine half-shafts to make a hybrid shaft that would work. Subie stub and flange on one side of the joint and the 240Z shaft, u-joint and flange on the other. It would only work if the u-joint was common or a suitable joint could be sourced.

I was in a hobby shop looking for Lionel train bulbs with the same base as the Z car gauge bulbs (BA9S) when I saw an LED display (display of bulbs). I ended up buying a package and building an LED gauge bulb. Unfortunately, LEDs have a very directional output and the gauges are designed for the all-around glow of an incandescent bulb, so the brightness did not make its way to where it needed to be when installed in a gauge. It was still fun though and I can see why people get hooked on LEDs once they try a few. I couldn't get a good illumination picture in a spare tachometer I have. Too much glare off the face of the gauge. I did find that the LED turned a turn signal indicator blue over the stock green. The turn signals are straight-on so the LEDs could be used there. Next time I have to pull it out. The last picture is a stock Nissan bulb compared to a low brightness LED assembly (brightness depends on the resistor used). Overall, the LEDs seem pretty robust and easy to handle. Lots of potential.

Post #6 here looks fairly non-restrictive, but is not "cold air" - Carbon Fiber Weber/Mikuni Velocity Stacks - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

Has anyone tried the new gauge bulbs from MSA? I see that they have discontinued the old, junky ones that would melt the gauge lens and burn out in months. I just got through a whole ordeal replacing an old MSA speedo bulb only to have it burn out the next day, finally replacing them with Wagner BP53's which are 1 watt and dim. Planning my next move. Here's the link to the new ones from MSA. They got the right size now and the description looks good. But so did the description for the old junk bulbs. Motorsport! Dashboard Bulb Kit (15), High Luminescent, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Old junk from MSA - Motorsport! Dashboard Bulb Kit (15), Higher Watt, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Hot air under the hood is likely when sitting but has anyone actually looked at air flow and temperature while driving? The air through the radiator has some extra heat energy but at speed it seems like most of the air flowing through the engine bay is excess and probably at ambient temperature. Hot air in to the intake probably only happens at stop lights. It may also happen on the dyno unless they have some really good fans. Measuring the temperature would be a little difficult since a probe could pick up radiant heat also. It would have to be in the intake opening to really know. Just thinking. I've always wondered about this when I hear about underhood temperatures and cold air intakes.

Can't edit - cam timing would also explain the loss of power at 4200 RPM. Too advanced, I believe.

Looking for the odd clue, as superlen said, in Post #28 - "kind of falls off at about 4200RPM". That doesn't seem right, especially for an engine running rich. The stock L28's accelerate/rev to 5000 RPM easily. Maybe a restrictive exhaust system? On the subject of rebuilding - have you confirmed correct cam timing via the notch and groove?

Did you try Google for youtube videos? Here's one.

Here you go - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/51416-runs-rich-high-idle-after-restart.html#post449632 The engine runs better when you remove the filler cap because unmetered air (hasn't gone through the AFM) gets sucked in through the PCV system. It just confirms that the engine is running rich when cold. After the engine warms up, the unmetered air leans out the mixture and the engine doesn't run well. The best thing that anyone can do when these engines don't run right is to go through as many of the tests in the FSM Engine Fuel chapter as possible, and write down numbers for each test. Fuel pressure, resistance at the coolant temperature sensor, voltage at the injector plugs, etc. Then, in their thread, give as much detail as possible about the parts on the engine, if they're new or used, and if anything has been removed, like the EGR system, for example. Every component on the engine has a function and can affect the way the engine runs.

You should start your own thread and put a link in it back to this thread. Otherwise you'll just make a mess of this one.

You didn't say if you've ever seen it work right or it's always been this way. But, the cheap way to choose between points and tach is to just re-install the points (there's a whole range of points for sale between $1 and $2 on RockAuto.com). If the problem goes away then you can focus on making the "good" tach work with Pertronix. If the problem stays, the tach is probably bad.