Zed Head

They look like odd-shaped blobs of oil. Wipe the oil off and take another picture. Edit - put a dime in the picture for scale also. The piece on the upper left looks a little bit like a piece of retainer from a ball bearing. Not uncommon for these transmissions to destroy their bearings. Probably not directly related to the clutch problem except for the fact that people tend to get angry when their clutch doesn't work and start banging gears.

Soft PVC has plasticizers (softening agents) added that will migrate out and in to or on to anything that they touch. That could be where the fogging came from.

Try the 1976 Body chapter. The 1975 chapter is missing, but 76 should be the same. Index of /FSM/280z

I just plugged the words below into Google and got some interesting results. fake avast virus warnings

Someone on Hybridz just reported the same issue with Avast. I wonder if some other virus is using a fake Avast message to get people to click their links.

This part here is about exactly what my 1976 car did when the module went bad. You can wire in an HEI module without cutting or permanently changing anything to verify the old one is bad, for about $20. The technology is of the same level and it's cheaper in the long run, than buying used modules or expensive new ones. Thinking about it, someone could make some money by wiring GM HEI modules in to old Nissan module boxes and selling them for $100, for a plug-in replacement.

I don't know enough to know if the keyway should be straight up when the timing mark is supposed to be at zero (TDC). But, if I was in your spot I would take the other damper that you have and compare its keyway to the one on the engine. If they're in the same spot, a change won't help. It wasn't clear that you are trying to restart an engine that you just put back together. Is that what's going on? I've never heard of a timing chain on an L6 actually jumping a tooth although it does get proposed often. Putting it together wrong is a possibility of course. Good luck with it.

15 degrees of crankshaft rotation won't drop the piston very much from TDC. Up and down motion of the piston drops dramatically at the top and bottom of the crankshaft rotation. That's why they call it DEAD center, it has to be exactly centered to be at the top. You can't do that with a stick. What you really need to do is actually measure timing with a timing light to know if your timing is off. Why assume when you can measure and know for sure? There could be many other reasons for it to run bad at or above 2500 RPM. p.s. if you set the timing mark to zero where is the woodruff key located?

Lack of objectivity on your part. You've made your point. Go back to shopping.

Your post was banned because you had zero posts and had links to other sites in the post. Looked like Spam. So does this one.

Something to look at. 1970 Datsun 240z Looks like he's over on zcar.com also. No pictures though. http://www.zcar.com/forum/15-cars-sale-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx/326233-1970-datsun-240z.html

I see that I missed the part in the first post about up to the ZX transmission. Thought you had an early 4 or 5 speed. Eurodat covered the gizmo I mentioned, with a picture. Introduced in 1980 I believe. I usually hate the "there's a reason" comments but in this case I think that there is a reason that the engineers added the device shown in Eurodat's picture. It's called the "reverse check sleeve" in the 1982 FSM. The only thing that I could find on the early transmissions that might help to avoid reverse on the way down from 5th (what I meant to say in my other post) is called the "reverse check spring" in the 1978 FSM. So, apparently, it's supposed to help.

The feature of a weak design leading to both things you mentioned. My old 5 speed would drop in to 5th way too easily. The newer 5 speeds (mid-80 and up) have a "reverse avoidance" gizmo added to the tail-shaft housing and a corresponding piece on the shift rod. Helps knock it over to center when dropping down from 5th.

There's little if any pressure on the spring when the big retaining bolt is started. I've had one out a couple of times. If there's room to slide the parts out without hitting the tunnel, it should be pretty easy. I think there's three parts, the bolt, the spring and the "pin". Can't remember if there's an orientation but I don't think so. Eyeball it as you're removing to be sure. Interested to see if a new spring or some preload will change things. I didn't like that feature of the older transmissions, it was aggravating.

I've had this happen when I replaced a transmission. It's possible to get the cable housing, or sheath, attached without actually having the cable end inserted in to the speedo drive gear. Disconnect it at the transmission, draw the cable out an inch or so and insert it in to the drive gear (give it a twist while inserting and you'll feel it drop in), then attach the housing/sheath to the transmission. I usually turn the drive shaft while screwing down the sheath attachment to make sure the cable drops in at the speedo end also.

Sounds a lot like a bad battery terminal connection. They get dirty and/or corroded and will pass just enough current to run everything but the starter. When you take the negative terminal off do you clean it and put it back on tightly, or do you leave it loose so that you can get it off easily the next time the problem happens? They need to be clean and tight. The ECUs on these cars don't reset at all. The only thing on the car that changes when the battery is disconnected is the clock.

If your stock AFM and ECU and engine components are "in tune" and working well together you won't notice any improvement from the potentiometer. It's only a benefit if you have a lean condition that needs fixing.

Good point on the 3.36 diff ratio. This guy is looking for 5th gear. Sell the shifter and speedo gear to Wade, 5th gear below, and keep the bellhousing for someone doing a 240SX trans. conversion (which would actually be good gears for your 3.36) and you'll make some money. tranny gears wanted (1977-1980) - Parts Wanted - HybridZ

For the cost of a rebuild kit and your time plus the $100, you could probably find a decent used 5 speed somewhere else. Rebuilding isn't easy and the results aren't guaranteed to be good. Plus the fact that it's an early 5 speed (speedo screw and hanger ears), with the large jump from 2 to 3. If you could find a cheap tail shaft housing and just swap it out without rebuilding, it might be worth the effort. Otherwise it seems like lots of effort for not much return.

That RX-7 valve does look nice. I Googled fuel line check valves and found a similar one - Fuel line check valves. Right direction?? - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums Here's one that even has the barb size, although they're the one way type. http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Way-Fuel-Valve-5-16-8mm-SVO-WVO-Biodiesel-Diesel-Fuel-Line-Check-Valve-/181080394722 Can't stop - http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/ES292046/ And if you could find this one in the right size-metric, you'd be golden - http://greatlakesskipper.com/en_us/standard-1-2-inch-boat-brass-fuel-hose-fitting-w-check-valve Finally, from boats to tractors - http://www.koopvanderwalparts.com/check-valve-fuel-line-john-deere.html

Thanks for the part number. I might try one if I ever put my Aeromotive FPR back on. Napaonline doesn't want to tell me which store has it available and doesn't sell it online so I searched a little more and found that CV8000 is the key part number and it's available at a lot of different places, like Autozone, Summit and Amazon. It's Airtex brand, the guys who make fuel pumps.

That part number in your other thread still comes up as a relay, not a check valve. Which NAPA and Echlin part numbers did you have confused?

You didn't say why you replaced those parts. The "other odds and ends" might be important. What do you mean by "new ignition"? How well did it run when it was parked five years ago? If I was working on a car that sat for five years the first thing I would check is fuel quality. Actually, I wouldn't even check it until it was out of the tank, I would drain the tank first and disconnect the starter wire to run the pump and drain the fuel rail too. Then refill with fresh gas and run the fuel pump again to get fresh gas in the rail. Anyway, when you say "no gas" do you mean no fire from the cylinders, or are you sure the pump doesn't come on? Some of the ZX's had a 5 second prime, but the pump won't run until the key is at Start or the engine runs. You won't hear it when the key is On.

You can pinch or fold over the hoses to stop gas flow. If they're old they might crack though, but if they crack they need replacing anyway. The supply line to the pump will do more than drip when disconnected. I ran a 280Z tank out of fuel and didn't have any problems restarting after I put a couple of gallons in. It had an aftermarket pump though, not OEM style. You might consider using a check valve from an old pump since most of them fail from rust or corrosion from sitting. They stop pumping but the check valves might be fine. Or your check valve might be I've had several old FPR's that leaked down. Have you pinched the return line shut to make sure the leaking isn't from the FPR?

If the surfaces are cleaned up well, the stock gasket should do the job alone.