Zed Head

As Virto says, -5 is hotter than the -6 standard. The heat range will only affect how clean the electrode and insulator are, not the air-fuel ratio. Usually hotter is chosen for engines that might have lots of short trips where the engine doesn't warm up completely. The orange deposit, from what I've read, is just residue from additives in the gasoline. You can adjust your idle air-fuel ratio by opening up (CCW) the idle air screw on the side of the AFM. It will let more air past the AFM vane and lean out the mixture.

I got a couple from Courtesy Parts along with some other parts (Courtesy is cheaper than my local Nissan dealer) but your local dealer can probably get them. Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Transmission Control Index

The very short, very specific answer is no. Nissan used those plugs in some of the Z engines, but not all. They added the plug numbers to the Engine Tuneup chapter in the mid-70's if you have a certain engine in mind.

Must have been my mis-spelling. I wrote "Amy" instead of "Any". CG240Z's re-animation of the thread though, Post #20, was about experience with the rear tower brace. Same company Mike W mentioned in Post #18, TEP, but different end of the car.

I think that Borg Warner used the "T-5" designation to describe many of their transmissions but there is, apparently, a lot of variation in design. Here's a web page from a guy that seems to be well-respected around the Z-related web. The 280ZX Turbo's used the FS5R90A transmission (I checked the FSM to be sure). Note that it's focused on the Z31 (300ZX with V6) so a bellhousing swap is necessary to bolt up to an L6. ZBUM's Z31 Transmission Information Page

The 240SX "71C" (or 71H depending on where you look) type transmissions can be made to work with a bellhousing swap. Apparently the later models, like mid 90s, have wider gears, plus reverse synchro, and they all have bigger countershaft bearings than the 71B's.

Amy thoughts on what exactly was moving, and how, that the triangulated STB stopped? Were the towers flexing inward or back toward the firewall? Or both? Is the straight bar across the towers (no connection to firewall) 50% as effective as the triangulated or 10% or 80%? Just using the opportunity to learn a little more. If the details are out there somewhere else, I can look.

Pretty sure it's supposed to be that way. It's the same for the stock rubber bushing also. With the stock bushing, the rubber flexes but nothing rotates independently. That's why you have to load the suspension before tightening the big bolts, to get the inner sleeve rotated to where it won't put the rubber under constant tension. If you still have the old rubber bushing you'll see the teeth marks from the locking washer on the inner tube. With urethane the bushing rotates on the inner sleeve. That's where some of the grease needs to be, on the outside of the sleeve and inside of the bushing. The outer part of the bushing needs grease just for general loading and unloading friction on the caps and frame work. The original rubber bushing is pretty well-designed for its purpose. I bought an MSA urethane bushing kit on sale a few years ago. Black urethane, and the control arm bushings were two piece. By the way, I think that the idea that the black ones are graphite-loaded might just be a myth. Black color alone does not mean graphite has been added for lubricity.

This probably happens for the same reason that my car runs smoother and faster, and handles better, after I wash it. The engine and car are just happier and show their appreciation by putting out more effort. In your case, it's a rattle of joy, joy at having fresh lubricating and cooling fluid.

Make sure you check the parts as soon as they come in. My HP's might be older and they could be welding the extensions on now. But I doubt it. The tight press-fit works fine. Weird that Amazon even has any available since everybody is looking for them. Here's a thread from Hybridz where one of the race guys says he has 3038's on the corners. My HP's are labeled 3038, as I said above. BZ3038 is the Illumina. Post #25. The Strut thread - Koni / Illumina / Tokico / Carrera / Bilstein / Ground Control - Page 2 - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ

Make sure you check the parts as soon as they come in. My HP's might be older and they could be welding the extensions on now. But I doubt it. The tight press-fit works fine. Here's a thread from Hybridz where one of the race guys says he has 3038's on the corners. My HP's are labeled 3038, as I said above. BZ3038 is the Illumina. The Strut thread - Koni / Illumina / Tokico / Carrera / Bilstein / Ground Control - Page 2 - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ

You realize that I said the rears have the extension? If you ordered four fronts, you'll have two short shocks and two that fit right. You've been mixing front and rear in your posts (you said you could get fronts for the rear in #27), so maybe just another typo. Anyway, good luck.

For the HP's (maybe the Illumina's) the rear 3013 shock is the same as the 3012 front except with a pressed on extension tube. You can knock the extension off of a 3013 rear and have a 3012 front. And they might both be 3038's, although I'm not 100% positive. It might be the 3012 and 3013 gland nuts that are different. The part numbers seem to be for the package of shock and gland nut since the gland nut is car specific. If anyone has 3012 or 3013 Tokico's they'll probably notice a sticker over the 3038 base number painted on to the shock. Or I might just have a weird set of modified 3012's and 3013's. Pretty sure that I've seen John Coffey comment on this before, but confirm info before using.

Is the engine complete except for carbs and plugs, or is it a long-block and a head, or was it running before someone took the carbs? Why do you think 9.4 - 10.5 CR? Just wondering. There's not really much informative in your description. Street cam, other head work, steel guides (probably meant steel seats). Did you talk to the builder? Or buy it from the builder? E88 head on an L28 block is a little bit restrictive unless the builder installed bigger valves. Get a specific list from the engine builder if you can.

Here's one fairly spendy solution - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it! Maxima 90 amp alternators will bolt in but require a pulley change, re-wiring of the plug and possibly some grinding of the housing for pulley clearance. The CS130D seems to be a popular GM alt. swap also but takes some mounting bracket work, and wiring. But you can also gain an amp or two at idle by cleaning all of your connections and grounds, and putting a few things on relays, like headlights and running lights. Any old, resistive connection will waste some amperage creating heat. Edit - Forgot to say that your wiring will be damaged by the load that's on the other end, combined with the current that's available. Your battery has much more amperage available than any alternator you'll ever install. A dead short on battery alone will fry any wire in the car, even with no alternator installed.

If you go a parts store and ask for a 280ZXT alternator you'll get a 60 amp NA alternator. They're stocked under the same part number. You only get the higher amperage at higher RPM anyway so if you don't have a problem at idle a higher rating won't change anything. There are many other options out there, some expensive, some cheap but requiring some extra work. How much do you want to spend, time and/or money? By the way, you said the amp died. Did you mean alternator?

I just fixed some very light seepage around my thermostat by re-tightening the bolts. I replaced my thermostat a few months ago and I guess the new gaskets compressed after some heat-cycling, or I was just afraid to over-tighten the soft aluminum in the first place. Same scenario, it only leaked when hot, closed up when cold. Might be worth a try. I have EFI and can reach all of the bolt heads without removing anything, with some long extensions and contortions (for the ones in to the head). Mine was a tiny leak though, only identified by smell and wetness, no actual dripping.

Just a few things to think about. Find out how long it's been sitting first. Some parts, like the clutch and brake hydraulics, are almost certain to go bad after sitting a long time. Other parts, like injectors, can last a long time if the FPR and pump keep the system sealed.

Never mind, I see that you replaced both flashers. Did you check the troubleshooting chart on BE-28?

Just saw this over on Hybridz. Don't know if it's free or not. Eastern Washington is dry country. 2/70 240Z found in field - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ Here's the text, Phantom is the guy. VIN on this car ends in 1749 and data plate says mfg in 2/70. Has a valve cover that says "Datsun 2400 OHC" and an intact pointy top radio antenna. Some rust in rear fenders and along bottom of hatch opening. Doors good. Interior a mess but mostly there. Minor body dings. Bumpers are straight. This car is going to a crusher unless someone wants. PM me if interested.

Yes, that's the one. Virto's picture might be of an earlier link, the white piece is actually just a plastic support piece, the wire itself has green insulation. They went to two wires in 77 or 78. It's shown on page BE-6 of the FSM, although the picture's not great.

They're available from most of the usual Z car parts places. Educated guesses around the internet put them at about 40 amps. Here's one possibility. Z Specialties

The links melt from excess heat. The extra heat conducted down the wire was probably enough to push it over. No reason for excess current to flow through the ECU though so you should be okay. If blown links is the problem. zKars is right about the location, although the tabs tend to break off and they end up hanging.

There should be a thick white wire attached directly to the positive post, with a white connector to two green fusible links. Just look at all of the wires connected to the positive post. The wire supplies power to the ECU and the injectors, so if those two links go you'll get no injection.

Take a good look at the ring gear on the flywheel. It might be worn or have moved. A small mirror through the starter hole might be needed to get a good look.