Zed Head

You can remove the transmission without removing the engine. It's commonly done when swapping transmissions and not too difficult. Make sure that you get the car high enough to slide the transmission out from underneath before you start. It's really a pain to try to raise the car a little more when you have the back of the engine supported with blocks or a jack. I've found that the car's scissor jack is excellent for supporting the back of the engine, it allows you adjust it up or down as needed to get the proper angle. 92 mm is approximately the distance that you want from the surface that the clutch fork rides on the throwout collar to the surface of the fly wheel. Might be difficult to measure from under the car. Might be worth your time to install a new clutch set while you're there.

Not sure where intelligence comes in to play for not getting something put back together. Maybe he just found something better to do. You spent $2000 and have a car that that doesn't run! What did you spend the two grand on and what's your goal with the "project"?

The Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM (Factory Service Manual) has an excellent description of how the parts work together. The Emissions chapter describes the parts that some people like to remove. The EFI (not sure what you mean by PFI) system needs all of the pieces working correctly for the whole system to run the engine well. A typical problem that people have with the EFI system is a vacuum leak. All fresh air (as opposed to EGR gas) must pass through the Air Flow Meter (AFM) for the ECU to meter the right amount of fuel by controlling injector time. The PCV system is connected to the intake system so even a missing dipstick will affect performance. It's all in the FSM, it's a good read. XenonS30 (in SteveJ's sig also) If you come back with some specifics, someone will probably have an idea.

These could all apply to America's current business and political practices. As for the first one, I went to school with an American machinist back in the 80's and he was making injection molds on the side, of a copy of an American product, for an Asian company so that they could make rip-offs in Asia to sell to the world. He used to complain about the work going "off-shore" until the opportunity came to make money from an "off-shore" company. People, around the world, just do what makes money. Calling it a "Chinese" problem isn't keeping up with how things really work. There are probably just as many Americans, or non-Chinese, leading the effort to bring these product in to the States and other countries. The Asian workers probably have no idea where the things they make are going. They just work for contractors who produce to the specs. they're given. I agree that we all should be aware of the counterfeiting problem but labeling it as Chinese only is misleading. Thanks for the links.

What kind of struts did you install? Illuminas set on 5, HP's, KYB's? The shocks themselves can affect the harshness of the ride. And, as others have pointed out before, tire sidewall stiffness has a big effect. If you've got low profile tires, you might get a harsh ride. I have KYB's all aorund and I get very little bounce when I jump up and down on the bumpers (1976 so there's a good ledge to stand on). They just don't move very much at all. But the ride is still good, stiff but not harsh.

Weird that one side tightens up and the other doesn't. Implies that the second strut tube is longer. Or the insert/shock/strut is shorter. Or the gland nut is thinner at the load-bearing surface. Does the gland nut fit tight around the top of the shock? It should. Maybe the beat up nut you're using is the wrong one anyway. There are several varieties of gland nut out there, designed to match the shock.

If he gets power to the injectors he has power to the dropping resistors. And, the transistors used to "ground" the injectors still show 12 volts to the side of the connector that they're grounding. It's one of those confusing things with the solid state EFI system. Low current, high current. I'm no electronics whiz but I did get caught for a while on the weird injector connector measurements in the past.

I would just check power at the injector connectors and continuity to Pin 1 at the ECU. If you don't have power to the injectors, then check the circuit that supplies power through the dropping resistors. Maybe someone unplugged them for some reason. All of the other stuff seems okay. Moving the AFM flapper will power the fuel pump which could cause the FPR to make a noise. Once the fuel rail gets pressure the engine should run for at least a few seconds until pressure drops. Yours sounds like it's only running on the starter fluid fumes. But even that indicates that ignition is okay, it's fuel to the cylinders that's missing.

You might have a thin collar on a thin pressure plate. Some have just built a new longer rod and used that although that could create other problems. What kind of car and engine?

Seems like your injectors might not be firing. Have you measured voltage at the injector connectors? You need 12 volts on each pin (seems weird but it's right that way). Does the tachometer needle move when it starts on starter fluid? The blue wire from the negative terminal of the coil feeds the ignition module, the tachometer and the ECU. If you really want to confirm things are right, take the ECU connector off and measure continuity from Pin 1 to the negative side of the coil.

You might have to save for another four years. It's expensive and not easy. Here is a link to one route - Welcome to Modern Motorsports Ltd! + the cost of custom CV shafts + adapters for the CV shafts

You want to test the other side, female, on the harness side. You have your clip on the alternator side.

Your local auto parts store might have a loaner pressure tester. If you measure pressure then you'll know. Fuel pressure is key to proper EFI operation. Many have guessed their way around actually measuring and spent lots of unnecessary money. I think the full tank thing is if the pump runs completely dry, with a factory pump (maybe). I've run a 78 out of gas with an aftermarket pump and had no problems with just adding another gallon.

The fact that you can generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine by letting the pump run suggests that it might actually be a flow problem. A clogged inlet screen/sock in the tank seems like a possibility. You could check flow by removing the fuel line from before the filter and putting it in a bottle. Then move the AFM vane and see how much flow you get. You should get a pretty good stream of fuel out of the hose. The fuel pumps go bad pretty quickly though if they get rusty inside. Either way, a flow check will give a clue.

I thought this was an idea worth following-up on. Squeeze the tube slightly in the vise and thread the nut in. If it goes in better then you'll know you're on the right track. You should be able to give it enough light squeezes and test fits to get it right then.

The pump should run when the key is at Start or when the key is On and the AFM vane moves, like you showed with your test. It sounds like your pump is operating correctly. Can you keep the engine running by giving it throttle? Or by using starter fluid? You should give more details. You might be trying to start a car that has sat for five years and has a gas tank full of old rusty gasoline.

I think that he meant the L wire at the T plug, not the white charging wire. L is the exciter wire, you should see close to battery voltage there with the key On, engine not running, at the connector, disconnected. Actually you should see close to battery voltage at both pins in the T connector. Edit - I'm guessing the reply was to madkaw Steve.

Everything that you described is normal except for the dying part. The fuel pump should run continuously after it starts and they do hiss as fuel passes through. Since you've shown that the switch in the AFM works, it might just need adjustment by bending the rod that actuates it (take off the black side cover and you'll see) or you might have a vacuum leak allowing air in past the AFM or you might just need a higher idle speed. Normally the AAR would give a high idle speed for a little while after starting. That could be your problem. Try turning the idle speed screw out to keep it running.

You never mentioned the replacement head. Another N47? That's a key fact also about two screwdrivers. Most accounts that I've seen only mentioned one.

The injectors should only click and spray when engine is turning and the coil is sparking. Or only when the coil is sparking and engine not turning for those who know how to cause that. The ECU fires all of them at every three sparks. Either way, with no spark to send a pulse to the ECU, there shouldn't be any injector firing. Maybe you're leaving out the part about the engine turning over? Or hearing a relay, not the injectors. The red ground wires have screwed up many people. It's a Datsun thing. Since the engine will run under the right conditions you probably don't want to mess with too many odd things. Good fuel pressure to the rail should keep the engine running. You probably are losing power to the pump or have a bad one or have a clog somewhere. I would focus on fuel supply.

I would wonder why there were blown fuses in the first place. And recheck the ones you replaced. Maybe they blew again. Starts for a few seconds then dies is typical of a dirty fuel pump contact switch. There's no reason for the injectors to click when you push the AFM flap. That's not right and just weird. I would put the fusible link back, even if it's corroded. If you burn the wiring you'll be even farther up the creek, in a leaky boat. I would test the fuel pump contact switch like SteveJ said first, moving the AFM flap, while the key is On. That will show you if the fuel pump contact switch is allowing the pump to get power when you let go of the key while Start'ing.

I had a coolant leak from between the cylinder head and block at the very back of the cylinder head, right over the starter. Coolant would run down the back of the engine above the starter. It was self-sealing when the engine got warmed up. Only leaked during warm-up and cool-down.

Worth a shot. Your initial wiring mistake with the extra ground might have damaged it. I damaged one when I forgot to put the one and two plug wires back on and started the engine. I turned the engine off immediately but afterward, the engine would only start with starting fluid, even when hot. I think that the module was damaged enough by stray spark or something I don't understand, to where it wouldn't generate a strong spark with the voltage available during starting. It would run just fine, it just wouldn't start. A new module and I was back to normal. Anyway, I almost mentioned it before but your symptoms were different. Who knows.

Still not clear what happens between the engine starting and how it gets to 4000 RPM. Sounds like you turn the key with no throttle applied, it starts, then will die unless you give it full throttle. I know that just a small amount of throttle with no load will get 4000 RPM easily. You're saying that you have the throttle to the floor and all you get is 4000 RPM? Do you have an air filter attached? Something's weird with the facts of the problem. If you want to measure voltage, maybe you can set the meter on the cowl where you can see it through the windshield. Clamp the probes on to the battery posts and start the engine. Above 12.6 means the alternator is charging.

Do you have to have it floored to get it to start or just floor it after it kicks over? Does it sound right at 4000 RPM or does it run rough? Backfiring is often from a lean mixture (as suggested re vacuum leaks). I'm not familiar with SK/OER carbs, but if there's some way to increase the "choke" it might offer a clue. Maybe your mixture is just off at low air flow. You could also have someone standing over the carb with starter fluid or carb cleaner (the petro-based stuff not the new "green" stuff) or a small cup of gasoline to feed in while you start it. If it's mixture based they should be able to keep it running by dribbling or spraying in more fuel. Of course, a backfire on to a cup of gasoline wouldn't be good. Just pour a little in, back away and see if it stays running longer. Brainstorming. How about a bad or disconnected brake booster?