Zed Head

Nothing wrong with wanting a more modern 6 speed transmission. If there was an easy swap, there would be a bunch of 6 speed Z cars out there. But there is no easy swap, not even an adapter you can buy. I think that I've seen some adapters that people have built for themselves, but they're not available for purchase.

Going to the most basic of basics, you should have been able to choke off the air supply to control idle speed. The engine will only spin as fast as it can pull in air to burn. The fact that you couldn't get the idle speed down suggests that you had extra air coming in from somewhere. The only air supply the distributor might supply would be from the vacuum advance canister, leaking. Just a thought.

Check the hose from the solenoid to the actuator. Small vacuum leaks will cause an increase in idle speed.

Are you using the factory 1976 distributor or ZX or aftermarket? Could be a factor. Does your tang look like Picture #3 in Post #4 when the timing mark is at TDC on the compression stroke?

Check AC-38. There's a diagram. "L" means blue wire color. You should have a 4 speed switch. Looks like power is passed through a set of resistors to control speed. The two wires to the blower should be easy to find and hot wire since you're almost there in your picture.

Actually, you'd have to remove the oil pump and shift it over a tooth. The distributor only fits one way on to the quill. One thing to do before going too far would be to verify that the timing mark is at zero at TDC. Your damper might be bad. Why would anything have changed? Have you had the oil pump out? Rebuilt recently? Some background on what's been done recently might give some ideas. By the way, the line to the charcoal canister is ported vacuum, only applied when the throttle is off idle. It's the right place for it. And the thing on the intake manifold is probably the top gear solenoid. Doesn't help your problem, just adding.

Got my cutting pasting screwed up in Post #21. Here's the link to the modification - My cheap Z32/RB26 Tranny shifter Bracket. - Nissan RB Forum - HybridZ

It's for an RB swap but the concept should work. You'll have to measure for your project. - Z32 Transmission Shifter Relocaters - Group Buys - HybridZ and the 240hoke part mentioned, for an L6 - Z32 Transmission Shifter Relocaters - Group Buys - HybridZ Use Google and search "site:hybridz.org z32 shifter" and you'll find a bunch of reading.

My S30 lessons have stalled recently also. I need something to break. Found a good reference on exhaust concepts, linked below. If you're tuning the exhaust system to generate pressure waves (think two-stroke engine pipes) at specific RPM ranges then a constriction can be useful. But just adding a random constriction to maintain velocity will just give random results. Why not go down to 2" or 1.5? Exhaust System Technology: Science and Implementation of High Performance Exhaust Systems On the shifter - there's a guy on Hybridz who came up with a very simple modification for the shifter bracket and rod on the Z32 transmission. A few cuts and welds and the lever is where it needs to be. The part is called a "support bracket" in the attached drawing.

I think that LeonV might be just disagreeing with your premise that restricting flow "should actually give the motor a little bit of a performance". That's been shown to be an urban legend, wive's tale, myth, etc. when referring to primary size for headers. You might be confusing your turbo principles with NA principles. You want hot gases in to the turbo so that they can do work on the turbine. With NA you want cool gases so that they take up less space and get out faster. Your vocabulary seems to be outpacing your knowledge. Actually doing something is the best way to learn.

I think that Eurodat was just pointing out the possibility of a whine. No guarantees that a simple flange swap will be easy and fix the problem without creating a new one. It seems to be that some people work on their diffs and end up with a whiner and others don't. But no guaranteed way to fix the whine if you get it. Nobody has asked how the flange could possibly get bent? It's pretty stout and would be surprising to have enough force to bend it without damaging something else. Are you sure it's bent, or could you just have internal damage or a bad bearing causing a pinion shaft wobble? You might be just wasting time with a flange swap.

classiczcars is a great site but this one might fit your project better - HybridZ

Sounds like you just jiggled a bad connection. You're not understanding how the coil works. Without current flow you'll see the same potential (voltage) on both terminals. You didn't force current to flow anywhere.

I saw a list of parts and a statement that new ZX parts were wired in. Not clear that all of the parts are ZX, and grammatically it is undefined! Could be just a ZX alternator and coil, which still gives plural ZX parts. Bonus - The terminals of module are wired to the negative and positive terminals of the coil. The negative and positive terminals of the coil both have battery power when the key is on. Therefore, the terminals of the module will have battery power when the key is on. Logic, gotta love it! Good luck with it.

The 1976 Federal model ignition module has seven terminals.

You never said if you have a ZX distributor or the stock 1976 unit with the ignition module in the cabin. And the voltmeter in the dash is often wrong. Mine (1976) read high until I adjusted it. Your other voltmeter will tell you how close it is. But, to your question, yes, high voltage can damage electrical components.

I think that we may be using different words to describe the same parts. Attached a link below that offers definitions. What is defined as the retainer also acts as a spacer, keeping the balls located in the races, spaced evenly around the races. A piece of metal could probably jam between a ball and a race, causing it to move in the race in relation to its neighbor, popping the retainer out. Once the retainer is out the shaft is no longer centered because the balls can all move to one side, causing more damage. Doesn't help the OP, his transmission still needs work. Bearing Parts – Component Descriptions and Terminology - NMB

The bottom three pieces look like chunks of ball retainer from a bearing assembly. I don't know if they can pop out without a ball pushing them out or not. The top piece looks little like a piece of reverse gear. I've seen a smaller piece from my old 4 speed. The piece of reverse gear is not a huge deal but the bad bearing is. There's probably more in there that didn't come out with the oil. I wouldn't use that transmission any more, it could self-destruct at any moment. Where I'm at, it's not too hard to find a used 5 speed for about $150 at the various wrecking yards. Rebuilding takes some skill, and ingenuity if you don't have the right tools. Gear pullers and presses designed for long shafts. People do get it done though, some from this forum.

They look like odd-shaped blobs of oil. Wipe the oil off and take another picture. Edit - put a dime in the picture for scale also. The piece on the upper left looks a little bit like a piece of retainer from a ball bearing. Not uncommon for these transmissions to destroy their bearings. Probably not directly related to the clutch problem except for the fact that people tend to get angry when their clutch doesn't work and start banging gears.

Soft PVC has plasticizers (softening agents) added that will migrate out and in to or on to anything that they touch. That could be where the fogging came from.

Try the 1976 Body chapter. The 1975 chapter is missing, but 76 should be the same. Index of /FSM/280z

I just plugged the words below into Google and got some interesting results. fake avast virus warnings

Someone on Hybridz just reported the same issue with Avast. I wonder if some other virus is using a fake Avast message to get people to click their links.

This part here is about exactly what my 1976 car did when the module went bad. You can wire in an HEI module without cutting or permanently changing anything to verify the old one is bad, for about $20. The technology is of the same level and it's cheaper in the long run, than buying used modules or expensive new ones. Thinking about it, someone could make some money by wiring GM HEI modules in to old Nissan module boxes and selling them for $100, for a plug-in replacement.

I don't know enough to know if the keyway should be straight up when the timing mark is supposed to be at zero (TDC). But, if I was in your spot I would take the other damper that you have and compare its keyway to the one on the engine. If they're in the same spot, a change won't help. It wasn't clear that you are trying to restart an engine that you just put back together. Is that what's going on? I've never heard of a timing chain on an L6 actually jumping a tooth although it does get proposed often. Putting it together wrong is a possibility of course. Good luck with it.