Zed Head

classiczcars is a great site but this one might fit your project better - HybridZ

Sounds like you just jiggled a bad connection. You're not understanding how the coil works. Without current flow you'll see the same potential (voltage) on both terminals. You didn't force current to flow anywhere.

I saw a list of parts and a statement that new ZX parts were wired in. Not clear that all of the parts are ZX, and grammatically it is undefined! Could be just a ZX alternator and coil, which still gives plural ZX parts. Bonus - The terminals of module are wired to the negative and positive terminals of the coil. The negative and positive terminals of the coil both have battery power when the key is on. Therefore, the terminals of the module will have battery power when the key is on. Logic, gotta love it! Good luck with it.

The 1976 Federal model ignition module has seven terminals.

You never said if you have a ZX distributor or the stock 1976 unit with the ignition module in the cabin. And the voltmeter in the dash is often wrong. Mine (1976) read high until I adjusted it. Your other voltmeter will tell you how close it is. But, to your question, yes, high voltage can damage electrical components.

I think that we may be using different words to describe the same parts. Attached a link below that offers definitions. What is defined as the retainer also acts as a spacer, keeping the balls located in the races, spaced evenly around the races. A piece of metal could probably jam between a ball and a race, causing it to move in the race in relation to its neighbor, popping the retainer out. Once the retainer is out the shaft is no longer centered because the balls can all move to one side, causing more damage. Doesn't help the OP, his transmission still needs work. Bearing Parts – Component Descriptions and Terminology - NMB

The bottom three pieces look like chunks of ball retainer from a bearing assembly. I don't know if they can pop out without a ball pushing them out or not. The top piece looks little like a piece of reverse gear. I've seen a smaller piece from my old 4 speed. The piece of reverse gear is not a huge deal but the bad bearing is. There's probably more in there that didn't come out with the oil. I wouldn't use that transmission any more, it could self-destruct at any moment. Where I'm at, it's not too hard to find a used 5 speed for about $150 at the various wrecking yards. Rebuilding takes some skill, and ingenuity if you don't have the right tools. Gear pullers and presses designed for long shafts. People do get it done though, some from this forum.

They look like odd-shaped blobs of oil. Wipe the oil off and take another picture. Edit - put a dime in the picture for scale also. The piece on the upper left looks a little bit like a piece of retainer from a ball bearing. Not uncommon for these transmissions to destroy their bearings. Probably not directly related to the clutch problem except for the fact that people tend to get angry when their clutch doesn't work and start banging gears.

Soft PVC has plasticizers (softening agents) added that will migrate out and in to or on to anything that they touch. That could be where the fogging came from.

Try the 1976 Body chapter. The 1975 chapter is missing, but 76 should be the same. Index of /FSM/280z

I just plugged the words below into Google and got some interesting results. fake avast virus warnings

Someone on Hybridz just reported the same issue with Avast. I wonder if some other virus is using a fake Avast message to get people to click their links.

This part here is about exactly what my 1976 car did when the module went bad. You can wire in an HEI module without cutting or permanently changing anything to verify the old one is bad, for about $20. The technology is of the same level and it's cheaper in the long run, than buying used modules or expensive new ones. Thinking about it, someone could make some money by wiring GM HEI modules in to old Nissan module boxes and selling them for $100, for a plug-in replacement.

I don't know enough to know if the keyway should be straight up when the timing mark is supposed to be at zero (TDC). But, if I was in your spot I would take the other damper that you have and compare its keyway to the one on the engine. If they're in the same spot, a change won't help. It wasn't clear that you are trying to restart an engine that you just put back together. Is that what's going on? I've never heard of a timing chain on an L6 actually jumping a tooth although it does get proposed often. Putting it together wrong is a possibility of course. Good luck with it.

15 degrees of crankshaft rotation won't drop the piston very much from TDC. Up and down motion of the piston drops dramatically at the top and bottom of the crankshaft rotation. That's why they call it DEAD center, it has to be exactly centered to be at the top. You can't do that with a stick. What you really need to do is actually measure timing with a timing light to know if your timing is off. Why assume when you can measure and know for sure? There could be many other reasons for it to run bad at or above 2500 RPM. p.s. if you set the timing mark to zero where is the woodruff key located?

Lack of objectivity on your part. You've made your point. Go back to shopping.

Your post was banned because you had zero posts and had links to other sites in the post. Looked like Spam. So does this one.

Something to look at. 1970 Datsun 240z Looks like he's over on zcar.com also. No pictures though. http://www.zcar.com/forum/15-cars-sale-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx/326233-1970-datsun-240z.html

I see that I missed the part in the first post about up to the ZX transmission. Thought you had an early 4 or 5 speed. Eurodat covered the gizmo I mentioned, with a picture. Introduced in 1980 I believe. I usually hate the "there's a reason" comments but in this case I think that there is a reason that the engineers added the device shown in Eurodat's picture. It's called the "reverse check sleeve" in the 1982 FSM. The only thing that I could find on the early transmissions that might help to avoid reverse on the way down from 5th (what I meant to say in my other post) is called the "reverse check spring" in the 1978 FSM. So, apparently, it's supposed to help.

The feature of a weak design leading to both things you mentioned. My old 5 speed would drop in to 5th way too easily. The newer 5 speeds (mid-80 and up) have a "reverse avoidance" gizmo added to the tail-shaft housing and a corresponding piece on the shift rod. Helps knock it over to center when dropping down from 5th.

There's little if any pressure on the spring when the big retaining bolt is started. I've had one out a couple of times. If there's room to slide the parts out without hitting the tunnel, it should be pretty easy. I think there's three parts, the bolt, the spring and the "pin". Can't remember if there's an orientation but I don't think so. Eyeball it as you're removing to be sure. Interested to see if a new spring or some preload will change things. I didn't like that feature of the older transmissions, it was aggravating.

I've had this happen when I replaced a transmission. It's possible to get the cable housing, or sheath, attached without actually having the cable end inserted in to the speedo drive gear. Disconnect it at the transmission, draw the cable out an inch or so and insert it in to the drive gear (give it a twist while inserting and you'll feel it drop in), then attach the housing/sheath to the transmission. I usually turn the drive shaft while screwing down the sheath attachment to make sure the cable drops in at the speedo end also.

Sounds a lot like a bad battery terminal connection. They get dirty and/or corroded and will pass just enough current to run everything but the starter. When you take the negative terminal off do you clean it and put it back on tightly, or do you leave it loose so that you can get it off easily the next time the problem happens? They need to be clean and tight. The ECUs on these cars don't reset at all. The only thing on the car that changes when the battery is disconnected is the clock.

If your stock AFM and ECU and engine components are "in tune" and working well together you won't notice any improvement from the potentiometer. It's only a benefit if you have a lean condition that needs fixing.

Good point on the 3.36 diff ratio. This guy is looking for 5th gear. Sell the shifter and speedo gear to Wade, 5th gear below, and keep the bellhousing for someone doing a 240SX trans. conversion (which would actually be good gears for your 3.36) and you'll make some money. tranny gears wanted (1977-1980) - Parts Wanted - HybridZ