Zed Head

Thanks for the kudos clouds. Good that you found a mechanic that can trace a circuit and figure things out. Plus take things apart and fix them. A rare find, from what I've read on these forums.

Note the comment about "details may differ" - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html If you have the 260Z electronic ignition with VR distributor, you could use the GM HEI module in place of the stock module. Cheaper, and just as effective. Check the advance mechanism on both distributors. If either doesn't move, take some time to break the rust on the ball bearings loose before forcing it. You might be able to get it moving again without breaking the plastic bearing cage.

Actually, I think it will allow you to send more shock load to the differential. Less mass to damp engine engagement through the clutch. Probably won't matter unless you're drag-racing, although I could see a higher modulus material transmitting higher frequency noise. Might be noisier, but I haven't seen any accounts. I have read stories about the aluminum shafts not liking harsh treatment through the clutch. Apparently the u-joint yokes can get damaged. You can buy a slip yoke and have a new steel shaft made for ~$250 bucks easy I would guess. I have found a local guy, up the Gorge (Portland talk...) who would shorten one for $90, which turned out to be essentially building it over again after cutting it. A good shop could probably source the yoke too. Just take your old one in and say "make me a copy of this, please". You might be spending more money than necessary for a relatively simple part.

The alternative to the full harness would be one of FricFrac's repair kits. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104419-s30-and-s130-wiring-harness-repair-kits-you-need-this-if-you-have-an-l28e-or-l28et/#entry1020367 You said that you were gauging interest so it seems like a good thing to know before you get too far in to it. He is a member here and posts occasionally.

I would look in the service manual and compare the vacuum and centrifugal timing curves first. The later year 280ZX distributors had some pretty aggressive vacuum advance curves, for emissions and fuel mileage purposes. The wiring diagrams are in the manuals also and will show you the differences between the two types.

The purpose of the FPR is to maintain a constant pressure differential between the fuel in the injector and the environment at the tip. So that the ECU can control fuel supply accurately with injector open time. So if pressure goes down in the manifold (vacuum reading goes up) then fuel pressure in the rail will go down also. If pressure goes up n the manifold (boost) then pressure goes up in the fuel rail. The FPR in your link in Post #3 should work fine as long as you want to go richer than stock in your tuning, which it looks like you do. Actually, it looks about like what FastWoman was describing, a stock regulator that's been modified to allow spring pressure adjustment. 45 psi is actually a pretty big increase over stock and should supply about 12% more fuel than 36 psi. The unanswered question about the Summit FPR is whether or not it will leak down like the Aeromotive and your EBay FPR.

They just had a thing on the local TV news about that same EBay ad - using "sex" to sell cars, is it right? The owner, Ridley himself, said everybody does it, and gave the Carls's Junior ad for BBQ as an example. Weird.

Fastwoman was talking about inches of vacuum here, in Post #47, but in the previous post, #46, it looks like you're reporting RPM. Have you measured intake vacuum yet?

The proxy thing sounds interesting as a clue, but I wonder if it wasn't just coincidence. I'm still locked out as of 6:15. It seems to go off and on. There must be a trigger somewhere.

Thanks John, I sent him a couple of screenshots from Firefox and Chrome. Still locked out as of now - 1:28

12:31 and I'm blocked again, from all Hybridz pages. I don't think individual "shout-outs" are going to help. A description of your "proxy work around" to view the site might help SuperDan figure out what's going on though. Why don't describe what it is?

Yes, FW, there seem to be several ways to go wrong in front of n.n. Eurodat mentioned removing the injectors (maybe he meant something else?) in Post 51 in order to adjust valve lash. And I think that the nylon rope trick is for holding the valves up for changing valve seals. Both way more work than necessary. In the Engine Tuneup chapter of the FSM, the valve lash adjustment procedure is pretty well-written. It is the first tuneup procedure described. You don't need the fancy tools though. There are several internet procedures out there for adjusting them while hot, but just do it cold first, then check hot if you're worried. The hardest part will be getting the lock nut loose without busting up your knuckles or bending your spray bar. Use a heavy mallet to tap on a wrench instead of trying to muscle it loose.

It's been over the last couple of days. I just replied over there to SuperDan's (the admin) query about whether the problem still existed, that I had had the problem again this morning, then immediately got blocked again. Still blocked. Maybe it's a firewall or old OS problem. I'm using Windows XP. Tried Chrome and Firefox and they both block. Edit - and now I'm back in...

It's not you. They're having issues. The "banning" is sporadic and just started. I'm sure it's being worked on, somebody even started a thread about it on the site.

If you connect the light, start the engine, and rev it up, the pointer will move away from the zero mark, crossing the other marks as it moves. I'm not familiar with the 240Z marks, so can't say if the marks start at zero though. On the 280Z, there is a negative five degree mark.

You said that it runs great. Are you just trying to fix the gassy smell from the exhaust now? Where is the timing set, and what is your idle speed when you're measuring intake vacuum. Also, measuring the resistance at Pin 13 of the ECU connector is the best way to see if your coolant temperature circuit is clean. Resistance on this circuit will make things richer. Compare the resistance measured to the temperature vs resistance chart in the FSM, Engine Fuel chapter. Make sure your valves are adjusted, check the coolant temp sensor circuit, verify fuel pressure including the function of the vacuum hose attached to the regulator (~30 psi fuel pressure at idle. 36 w/o the hose connected), drive it around for a tank or two to loosen things up, then decide if you want to mess with the AFM. You need to get all of the very basic stuff right first.

I just looked through the FatCat site, thanks for suggesting it. The Technical Data link under Bump Stop Kits is worth a click. My post would have been shorter if I had looked at it first. $100 to do all four corners doesn't seem too bad. I tried to get some Jinba Ittai but the link was broken. Bummer.

Seems like there should be some serious engineering work in to the bump stops if they play such an important part in the suspension performance. Maybe there is for the stock Nissan stops. Their damping characteristics should, ideally, be matched to the shock and spring that they're used with. The common name may be misleading. Edit - actually, I don't even see a "bump stop" on the Nissan stock suspension setup. Maybe they only come with the aftermarket shocks. It's kind of odd that a shock maker would require an extra ring of elastic material around the shaft of the shock to alter its performance or save it from damage, bit not supply it with the shock. Just saying that the whole "bump stop" thing is kind of confusing. Maybe the bump stops are an after-after-market fix. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx Edit - I did find the "#3 - Bound Bumper Rubber" in the 1978 FSM Front Axle chapter. I've never seen one in person even though my front and rear suspensions appeared to be all original and still full of whatever fish-based oil they put in there. Seems weird that they could disappear without a trace. Still wondering...

This thread might be informative - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47896.html

I have a set of the 5020's for my 280Z. That's the car they're sold for. The rears are installed, the fronts are cut stock springs (haven't installed the Tokicos up front yet). I have KYBs and no bump stops (didn't think about them until it was too late for the one day job). I've not bottomed and the ride is great. The FSMs show a pretty big difference in spring qualities, 1972 (all I can find) vs. 1978, Rear Axle - 280Z 15.43 inches long, 8.5 active coils, 128 lb/in spring constant 240Z 14.5 inches long, 10.65 coils, 104 lb/in constant Hard to compare mounted qualities without knowing the preload (space between the spring perches on the struts) of the 240Z strut compared to the 280Z strut. But it doesn't look like those springs are designed for the 240Z. It's a lighter car for sure. Just found this link also. It doesn't give the 5020 number but John Coffey in Post #3 does describe different springs for the 240 vs. the 280. Looks like you have the stiff 280 springs on your 240. Might be the problem. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36261.html Edit - Post #9 describes a 240Z with 5020's as like a gokart, very stiff but handled great, couldn't handle a pothole though. Kind of like what you're describing. It's the springs...

You know, I just opened that link in your other post. I had overlooked it before I posted mine. A guy from France already had the magic number back in 2006! 92 looks solid. Three people could be wrong but it's unlikely. Thanks for the link and the confirmation measurements. Now if I can just find a way to remember it.

Actually I mentioned it in a previous thread and actually gave a height. Tried to find it but the Search function of the site seems to be one of those fuzzy ones that doesn't allow an exact search. The more search words you put in the more results you get instead of the opposite. I'll keep looking. Found them. I took them but never posted. Ignore my previous postings, since deleted. Pictures attached. 91.36 mm, 3.6", 3 19/32" from base of pressure plate to wear the clutch fork rides on the collar. Note that when the disc is inserted the measurement will get a little smaller as the pressure plate fingers move down. Probably not a big deal. Also note that the picture and the eyeball of the caliper were done separately. The picture of the caliper beside the stack is for demonstration.

Good point on general wear. More wear puts more load on the bearings as things get out of alignment. Here's a thread on the 71C bell housing swap, just to round out the discussion. You can see the one sealed bearing in the picture on the second page. Probably not really a factor in noise. http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Transmission2.htm

Oops. Nomenclature fail on my part, clearance, not tolerance. Thanks for clearing it up, I can't tolerate mistakes on my part (pun :sick:). I think that the "roughness" of the noise suggests the ball bearings instead of the needle bearings. At least for the noise I've noticed. It has a grindy bad bearing sound to it. If I recall correctly, there are only seven balls, of relatively large diameter compared to the needle bearings, in each bearing assembly. There are a lot of needle bearings in each cage. In Post #4 above when I said "same bearing noise" I meant within the group of four transmissions. I couldn't hear anything in the video either. Anyway, might as well drive it and see if it gets worse.

Looks like you've read up on how to make power. Why hope when you don't have to (this could be a campaign slogan!)? You listed all of the stuff that you should work on, so it also looks like you already know it's not going to work. The injectors and size of the throttle body really only serve one purpose - to supply the fuel and air demands of the engine. Without increasing the demand, with a different cam, or intake/exhaust port work, or exhaust system work, for example, the bigger injectors and throttle body will be wasted. You'll probably feel a difference in throttle response because the same amount of throttle blade movement will let more air in with the bigger body, just like pushing the throttle pedal farther. Basically, you'll have less throttle control that gives a feeling of more power, that's not real. Just one opinion. I can't recall a single thread or post in which someone said they got more power with bigger injectors and/or throttle body alone. I have read some accounts of people removing the big throttle body because it just made the engine hard to control, but no more powerful. The SDS will probably allow you to reduce injection duration so that it performs like a small injector, so you'll probably get away with that modification without noticing any ill effects.