Zed Head

In addition to CSV enrichment,there's also another start enrichment. Probably opens the injectors longer. Maybe the ECU doesn't run the start enrichment if the CSV is not enriching either. There's a diagram in the 76 FSM, Engine Fuel chapter. The description of how the thermotime switch works, with a drawing, is in the Engine Fuel section also, for the 76 model anyway (didn't realize it until just now). The FSMs got less descriptive over the years so the ZX FSM may not have it.

Expensive, but available - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/engine-4-filters-intake-air-cleaners-4 If I was in your boat I would go to Home Depot and look at plumbing adapters and vacuum hoses and cobble something together.

Can you make it over to Index, WA? http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3305270485.html And, I'm not sure if the hose will work, but there's a 77 in Lynnwood - http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=200 You could also post here - http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/

No offense, but you did remove the gland nut, right? Can't be sure, you said you removed the "wheel mount" which is not a common term. Plus, where would you attach opposing pipe wrenches. The shaft will twist inside the strut so that wouldn't work. Not clear what you're torquing on.

The AAR just lets air past the throttle body blade. It has the same effect as cracking the throttle open a little bit (he even says that in his writing). I can't see it affecting HP at all. I read through that page and it's an odd thing to say considering the other information he shares.

Have you confirmed that the u-joints are bad? Your post reads like you could barely tell from just looking at it. Good luck if the eyeball diagnosis works out. You'll have to drain the transmission fluid when you pull the yoke unless you have fast hands. You might replace the output shaft seal if it looks leaky. It just pries out and taps in. And new fluid if it's not recent.

That is my understanding. I think that the mechanism of how the thermotime switch works is similar to the AAR except that instead of a bimetal strip closing a valve it opens an electrical switch. The thermotime switch looks like the ground for the CSV in the wiring diagram. The bimetal strip heater in the switch and the CSV get power from the same source, and the ground for the CSV runs through the contact side of the switch. Heat from the engine can also open the thermotime switch, just like the AAR. Looks like DZR might think (or thought) that the CSV stays open when the engine is cold. You realize that this is a zombie thread from 2007?...

That's two of three that you've swapped. The coil is left. I've heard of cases where the heat of usage will open up a broken wire in a coil. You might check the resistance on the primary (coil + to coil -) and secondary (coil + or - to the center wire) circuits before and after the problem. If it's the coil they would check out okay, then not okay.

Relays most likely won't fix back your low beams, if that's what you're trying to fix. The problem is probably in the ground circuit at the dimmer switch. If it's the same type of switch as the 280Z you can fix it by spraying contact cleaner in to the switch and working it around or by taking the switch apart and cleaning up the contacts.

Did you use a lug wrench to check nut tightness? And the second part of your sentence is unclear. What are these spacers that make things flush against the rotor?

The hose broken in half is not a brake line. Brake lines are small and made of hard metal. The loose cap has a metal ring that turns about halfway to lock the cap down. Brake fluid goes there. Brake lines will be coming out of the bottom of the metal cylinder that the cap and reservoir are attached to. The other cap in the picture covers a brake fluid reservoir also. The loose wire might be a ground wire for your distributor. You can check if it's a ground with an ohm-meter. There are others here who know more about carbs. You are way back at the very beginning of the learning curve for engines. Be careful. Finding a friend who knows about early car engines would help you out a lot.

A couple of years ago a guy tried to swap a 77 harness in to a 78 and had problems. There are differences that are hard to figure out, for example the fuel pump relay setup and the voltage regulation. Compare the wiring diagrams before you decide to start tearing things out. Might be easier to just fix the bad 75 connections and individual wires. The EFI harness is a complete sub-assembly and is identical, I believe, so swapping just that sub-harness and leaving the body harness might be an option. The doors are different between the two models you have. Most internal parts won't swap, but the door handles and trim parts will. The ECUs and/or AFMs might be the same part number, depending on where the car came from. The brake wheel cylinders in the back are different but the suspensions will swap over as complete units, brakes attached. The 78 cylinders are cheaper and of a better design, dual piston versus sliding cylinder. The windshield and hatch will swap. Heater parts may or may not be different. I had a similar situation, a 76 runner, and a 78 parts car.

The purpose of measuring at the ECU connector is to see what the ECU sees. The numbers you measured are not what the ECU is expecting, so now you should measure at the AFM. If the numbers at the AFM are the same as at the ECU connector then the problem is in the AFM. IF the AFM measures differently (hopefully correctly), then the problem is in the wiring and connections from the AFM to the ECU.

I have one. How much are you offering?

???? You might post a picture of the "wrong" one so that no one tries to send you another.

No, I got my thinking screwed up using the engine calculator and putting negative numbers in the head gasket box to simulate the head shave (the calculator reports piston head contact, probably because the equations used are adding the HG thickness to the deck height). You are right, shaving the head should not cause piston-head contact. Sorry for that, I didn't think it through before I posted. I think that numbers reported by the calculator are pretty close though. Of course, a .074" (1.9 mm) HG would get his head back to where it started.

madkaw makes a good point. Actually, it's not clear what the intent is of the work done. I used one of the calculators and get 8.5 CR for the saved head, versus 7.3 for the stock setup. So now it's actually similar to an N42/N42 setup in CR, and with dished pistons. Plus, the calculator says that the pistons will hit the head. So you might need a thicker head gasket to get back to usable. Flat tops come out at 10.1 CR, but pistons still hitting the head. Looks like a 2.0 mm HG might get you back to 8.4 CR with flat tops, 7.3 with dished pistons. Here's the calculator if you want to explore options - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ You can put a negative number in the HG thickness box to simulate the shaved head. Subtract the shave from the HG thickness.

I measured the compressed fire ring of the HG I removed from what looked like a never disturbed, original (numbers matching), engine in my 1976. I got 1.25 mm also.

Seems like there's been some effort put in to building a nice turbo long-block. You could probably sell it for good money and pick up a complete NA F54/P79 engine, refresh it and come out money ahead. The NA engine will already have the flat-top pistons and the correct cam for NA. Or you could swap the head for an N42 or N47, keep the pistons and new rings, get the CR you want with the smaller N42/N47 combustion chamber, probably along with the right cam, and sell the rebuilt turbo head or keep it as an option for later use.

I linked to this thread in another one but didn't reply. bgm is right, that if you have the 81 distributor with the "matchbox", the matchbox is the what produces the spark. They're very expensive to replace. Why did you swap the ZX distributor for the stock 76 electronic setup? There are actually three main things that "produce" the spark - the pickup coil and iron rotor in the distributor, the ignition module, and the coil. They can all go bad, but the module is the most sensitive. You could wire in a GM HEI module. It's popular because it's cheap and does the same thing the original ignition module does. It takes some wiring modification though.

78 still has the ignition module in the cabin. E12-80s came in 79. But, of course, the symptoms still fit a bad module. A GM HEI module could be wired in if it keeps happening. Edit - another "of course", as soon as I point out that 78 doesn't have an E12-80, someone else shows that it might have a transplanted one. Funny... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47563.html I had a similar thing happen on my 76 though when I was testing out a spare ECU. Plugged it in, took off for a test, and about a mile away it coughed once, then died completely. It restarted, let me turn around and get about half-way back then died again. One more restart got me within jogging distance of the good ECU in the garage. The engine smelled of gas while I was trying to restart it the last time.

You can't see anything unless you have a Facebook account and log-in. This excludes people who haven't bought in to the modern "always connected to the rest of the world" mentality. You should open the page up to anyone who is interested.

Looks in good shape. Don't know if the seller is a member here or not. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3335428641.html

I've worked a little bit with Teflon and learned a few things. "Teflon" is actually a Dupont trademark for a wide variety of PTFE-based materials. So "Teflon" can have a wide range of properties. But, in general, PTFE doesn't actually melt, it is just formable at a certain high temperature. The PTFE plumbing tape you're talking about is probably fine on the fuel rail at engine temperatures. I've used it there and had no problems and it was intact when I took the piece off later. The biggest problem that people report with using PTFE tape on fuel fittings is the little threads and pieces that tend to break off as it's used. They get in to the fuel system, don't dissolve or break down, and can clog things up, or jam things open. But if you're careful it shouldn't be a problem.

Yeah, sorry about that. I actually had an e-mail exchange with one of the technical guys down there to confirm that it was normal and followed up by suggesting that they add some text to the web page or the instructions about it, to save people time trying to diagnose a "problem" that's actually caused by their product. He said they had some stuff in the works but it never happened. That was about a year and a half ago. I assume the marketing department (or marketing person, who knows how big they are) realized that they were better off to leave it unsaid. Caveat emptor...