Zed Head

borini63 parts out a lot of cars. He wanders around all of the various Datsun forums. Might be worth a message. He's a member of this forum. Have you swapped the bell housing yet or is it already done?

You know more than I do. I missed the monitoring function. I thought it was like the coolant temperature sensor, just off and on. Didn't know the EFI ECU was that sophisticated. Maybe it just needs a good Italian tune-up.

Thought you had the ECCS since you said "blinking". I don't think that the EFI system is "monitored" periodically like the ECCS appears to do. I think that the EFI lamp only glows when the O2 sensor is hot and the O2 level is above or below the narrow band threshold. That's why the FSM has you ground the sensor connector while watching the lamp. That mimics hot and either lean or rich (can't remember which) condition. If you ground the O2 connector and the light glows, then disconnect it and it goes out, that means the harness and ECU circuit are O.K. The lamp probably doesn't go on during normal usage until the manifold is hot and the lean or rich condition is met. Just a guess, I have a 76 with no O2 sensor. Hopefully I'm not confusing things.

Weird, you must have found it through Google or some other link. If you try just Web Page Under Construction it doesn't work. Pretty basic stuff though, hard to go wrong unless you adjust the spring when it doesn't need it. On the blinking light: Are you not trusting what the FSM says? Page EF&EC 47 > if "N.G." (no blinking light), test the O2 sensor and the harness. Did you do the tests on page 48?

Nothing will work right if you don't have the right fuel pressure. I'm not familiar with any AFM rebuild procedures and the kamikaze link is "under construction". The insulators are there for vibration and heat insulation. The smaller o-rings at the bottom are vacuum seals for the intake manifold. The cracked insulators won't affect the way the engine runs. I would check fuel pressure and flow before going too much further.

Is the gear assembly sticking out sideways or straight up? Maybe the shafts are hanging from the gear set weight and causing misalignment. It's pretty easy to stick the front case back on though and find out what will happen in use. I would do that anyway without sealant just to make sure things are right. I had one on and off several times and wished I hadn't been so confident with the sealant. Had to clean it up and start over. Don't forget to put it in to gear before putting the front case on or you'll probably lock it up when it goes in to two gears at once.

Something off with the shift fork? Apparently they can bend or crack without breaking completely. The roll pins holding the fork on can shear also, maybe yours is halfway there. The fork might be directional also. Have you seen duragg's rebuild opus on Hybridz? Might make you want to spend a little more time on it before you put it back in. High RPM shifting dynamics - Drivetrain - HybridZ

The thread title recalls a scene from a popular old movie -

Don't forget the cannoli...

I figured that a professional running a restoration businesswould be all over having an official factory source for information. It's kind of surprising that you asked. You'll still need the FSM to get the numbers you really need, the thickness of the disc facing material. Unless Dr. Z opens up the FSM again and gets some more for you.

Are you sure it's not electrical? You could check for voltage drop to see if something is grounding the injectors. Or you could disconnect the injector electricals, repressurize the rail and look for pressure drop. If it's mechanical they'll leak down, electrical, they'll hold. The stock filter should reject most of any crud, and a bit of water since the element is paper. It would be odd for new injectors to crap out so soon. I have a set of original 1978 280Z injectors from a car that sat dead for ten years, that flow-tested on my home made tester within a couple percentage points of each other. Ran great on the engine.

It's in the FSM.

The length of the CV shafts for the conversion has been discussed to death (death of the stock CV shafts) on Hybridz.com. One of the guys who determined that the stock Z31 turbo shafts were too long, and made up a bunch of shafts to the correct length, just posted in another thread in this forum. Edit - in short, what I'm saying is that I think that you can find all of the answers on the Hybridz.com site. The adjustable control arms are discussed, the bushings for the different ring gear bolt sizes (10 or 12 mm), and the lengths of the axles. There's also information on avoiding certain CV shafts because they are way too long (I can't remember which ones right now). The shafts that would probably work for you, with the T3 arms adjusted wider, are the 4 bolt Z31 turbo axles. I think that the Z31 VLSD axles are too long, longer than the Z31 4 volt CLSD axles, that might be where your problem is. The information is spread around though so it will take some searching and reading.

Metal fatigue is different than just a straight overload failure. A picture of the broken end would be interesting, to see if there was a crack there before the final failure. Weathered material versus shiny new surface. Maybe we should be Magnafluxing our mustache bars.

Problems like yours are common on Hybridz.com, have you been over there? - Drivetrain - HybridZ You will take some heat though, for swapping a CLSD for a VLSD, if you post a question on Hybridz. You could have run the stock u-joint half-shafts with the CLSD, using 280Z companion flanges in the diff, although there might have been some binding at certain points of the suspension travel. - Beta Motorsports, LLC Bench Racing

Here's a picture. It has numbers but I can't easily figure them out. Different from yours. Apparently scratched in to the sand before pouring, maybe, since it's raised on the part. Or engraved in to the mold for the investment the sand is packed around,. No metal-casting expert, so could be way off, just guessing. Notice the big vent or sprue chunk in the picture though, missing from yours.

I have a 78 5 speed with the two exhaust hangers and the tall shifter ears. I've noticed the shifter ears on mine and wondered. I decided that the shifter ear thing as an identifier was incorrect. The shifter itself is the same as my 76 4 speed shifter and fits fine, no interference. My 76 4 speed has the access plate and the 78 5 speed does not. Both transmissions came in cars I bought and didn't show any signs of being replacements. Measuring the 5th gear ratio is a pretty good way of telling the late from early 5 speeds. .864 for the early and .745 for the late, with a .773 thrown in the middle, late 80 to early 81 I believe.

I had pondered the turbo timer but discounted it since it was typically a delayed off timer for the ignition, and they appeared to be very expensive (over $100 by a Google search). You're right though, it could be activated with a simple push-button momentary switch, or always working with an ignition circuit.. I'm new to EBay. Looks like the $20 EBay units are all from China or Hong Kong. Worth some more research, for sure. Edit - I'm not sure any of them run for 20 minutes either. Can't tell. Most of the ads seem to be selling blue or red LED colors as the main feature. Edit 2 - what kind of timer did you use on the Jag? Was it one of the $20 EBay jobs? They look a little iffy to me.

It's hideous, especially compared to some of the nice engine bays shown on this forum. I must decline. There are only three main parts - the ZX fuel rail cooler blower fan (zip-tied at this point in time to my AC system drier bottle on the passenger fender well), the pre-heat hose (similar to that linked in a previous post) with holes that you can't see underneath, and the flexible piece from the ZX cooling system to connect the hose to the blower (probably not necessary). The rest is a fuse holder, some wire, and the timer zip-tied to the steering column. There is room under the fuel rail that is ready-made to slip the tube in to. The bilge blower I linked to in Post #6, from BGM's suggestion, would probably work as well as the ZX blower. Still a little bulky but probably easier to mount.

Thanks for the tip. I searched that number though and got a 24 hour timer. Like you'd use to set a sprinkler system or lights. The Amazon listing says it's 120 volts also. Intermatic E1220 Timer, 24 HR TIMER W/TOG SW PLT - Amazon.com

I had a pinhole leak on the bottom of my Pathfinder tank (a manufacturing flaw I assume since I bought it new). I used a two part epoxy designed to seal gas tanks. Most auto parts stores carry it. The first patch lasted a couple of years and I just put a new one on. Too tiny to justify removing the tank and too big to ignore (constant raw gas smell). If you find a small leak and decide to try it, take your gas cap off first to make sure there's no pressure pushing gas out of the hole while you're sticking the patch on.

I think he might have meant 15 minutes. I have a one hour timer and just turn the knob about 1/3, so 20 minutes. If it's still running when I come back I just let it blow while I drive. I have a fuel pump cutoff under the dash also that I always flip anyway, not because my car is worth stealing but because I think it's probably easy to steal. Saab apparently had a delayed-off relay on a few of their models to run an electric fan but they started failing closed so they recommended replacing them with regular relays (I think that have a thermal switch in the circuit also). There are solid-state electronic timers out there but I haven't found one that stays closed for over 5 minutes and/or will run on 12 volts.

Good luck. If you have it all figured out, then what is the question? Just tell the muffler shop what to do. Sign a waiver if they need it so that you'll take liability for not having a converter, since they are federally mandated. There's no way to answer your question since you have a car of unknown origin. My impression has been, in Oregon, if the tag on the door says "Catalyst" then the car has to have a catalytic convereter. If you want to take a chance with federal law, go find a tag that says "No Catalyst" and stick it on there. The shop is going to go by the tag, not what you tell them you think is right.

If your door pillar and dash tags aren't correct, then what would be? The VIN usually follows the frame, and the tags match the VIN. I've heard that the VIN might be stamped on another part of the body also. Not sure where. Does any of this matter? Sounds like you're putting an exhaust system on a car that you won't be able to title and register anyway. Could even be arrested for owning.

There should be a metal tag on the driver's side door pillar that says whether or not your car should have a catalytic converter. My 76 has one that says "Non Catalyst", which is a weird way to say it. Probably lost something in the translation. The converter showed up before 79, Nissan has floor temperature warning sensor instructions for 76 in the FSM. Looks like the O2 sensor didn't show up until 1980 (page EF-28).