Zed Head

Yes, the resistor mod. It's easy, pretty quick and effective for richening the mixture across the whole air flow curve. I've read several accounts of people finding resistors in the EFI harness that looked like they were put there professionally. Installed and wrapped for a permanent fix. It seems like the system was designed on the lean side and people have been fixing it for many years by adding a resistor to the CTS circuit. I don't know if the ECU's are going lean, or the AFM's, or the ethanol in gasoline is putting things over the edge. If the ECU swap doesn't work, I would try the resistor next.

The intake backfiring is also a sign of a "bad" AFM. But I've "fixed" two AFMs that were lean by using the potentiometer in the coolant temperature circuit (just installed another spare AFM last week, and the potentiometer saved it. It was stumbling and on the edge of backfiring). You might try that. You could also measure resistance on the 6, 8, and 9 pins. If you don't get 180 and 100, the AFM might be going bad. It may be a higher ethanol content in gasoline making a slightly lean situation worse. Ethanol effectively dilutes the mixture, making it lean. For example, E85 engines use huge injectors and sometimes double up to get enough E85 in to the engine. Modern engines compensate through the O2 sensor, old systems are stuck with the factory algorithm. Pontificating... I've used a 78 ECU in my 76. The part number were the same. They performed identically. And 30 psi at idle is good. It should jump to ~36 if you remove the vacuum hose to the FPR.

I started at the end and stopped when you said you were going to sell the car. You should put an ad in the Classifieds section. If you're not selling the car, you should restate your problem for this forum. I did glance at the first post though, and it looks like you own either a stolen or illegally modified car, with the mis-matched VIN tags and body. If I were you I would report it to the police and get my money back from the guy that sold it to you. That might solve all of your problems and avoid future ones.

A super simple test that would at least tell you something would be to start the engine, turn it off without touching the brake pedal, then remove the vacuum line to the check valve on the booster side. If the booster has had engine vacuum properly applied you'll get a big hiss as the booster refills with outside air. This will tell you that the check valve is working correctly and that the booster chamber holds vacuum. If you don't get a hiss you might have the check valve in backward or the booster is leaking. It's a simpler way to do the tests described in the FSM, Brake chapter, without a vacuum gauge. Basically, instead of measuring vacuum with a gauge you measure it with your hear.

Why did you even ask?

There might be parts of the harness that are in good condition and easier to keep and use intact, than to try and rewire. If you don't live in a studio apartment you might as well keep it for reference, at least. Unless you're a wiring wizard who can figure out a wiring scheme from the FSM diagrams, assuming that they're complete and correct, and your own electrical knowledge.

It was worth a shot. Can't blame you. Thanks for the 1.25" number anyway.

I might have confused things by calling the shank of the bolt a "shoulder". A 10 mm shoulder bolt would have a distinct shoulder machined to 10 mm, I believe. The bolt in question is not a shoulder bolt.

Would that be to the top of the tube (no shock), the top of the shock (where the nut bottoms out, no insulator) or the top of the insulator (complete assembly)? With all of the numbers, one could mix and match on paper, and do math on cutting for adjustable spring heights. If you have the numbers... Thanks.

Sorry, your first post reads like it's still coming off. Not very clear what the problem is. How can you hear noise from the valve with the valve cover on? Are you spinning or running the engine with it off? OR are you hearing noise as you turn it over by hand with the cover off. You might just be hearing noise from the crankcase through the timing chain area as some cylinder pressure leaks past the rings. It's common to hear hissing noises if you're just turning the engine over by hand. They all do it.

The things that you're checking won't have anything to do with the lash pad coming off. Here's something that might cause your problem - a lack of lubrication. Make sure that you have oil coming from the holes in the camshaft or the spray bars. Maybe someone left the plug out of the end of the camshaft or blocked the oil passages in the cam towers, or you have a bent or clogged spray bar.

The Body chapter of the FSMs has some dimensions. They show 853 mm for the 1972 240Z and 836.4 mm for the 1976 280Z, between the centerlines of the tops of the towers. They also show the 240Z tower height as 640 mm, and the 280Z as 682 mm. 42 mm difference, ~ 1 5/8". I'm glad this came up because I've wondered about the strut height difference before. Now I have the body numbers but don't have the strut measurements. Some of the difference is taken up by the strut top insulators, 240Z being shorter than 280Z.

I have a few spares in the garage that I started collecting after I broke one. The shoulder on the bolt is 9 mm, and the hole it fits is 10 mm. Once you try to get the bolts in to holes you'll see that if it was a tight tolerance 10mm bolt in a 10 mm hole you'd probably never get it assembled. Even with the play you'll have to wiggle things around to get both bolts in. I think 9 mm shoulder in a 10 mm hole is the factory setup.

Darrel's right, they tend to become part of the insulator, and don't fall out when the strut's apart. You have to dig them out. But you said that "they're in", but the rear end still seems low. Do you mean that they arrived in the mail, but aren't installed? Not clear. The FSM you linked doesn't show a blow-up of the strut so you can't really tell. Here's an informative link - Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Rear Suspension (Strut, Shock Absorber & Transverse Link)

This part sounds like you did everything right and the u-joint is just too wide for the yoke. Maybe you got a + tolerance joint and - tolerance yoke. Nissan factory u-joints come with a set of clips of various thickness, and a procedure to use to get the right clearance for the cap. Maybe the old clip will give the right clearance or you could mix and match the new clips. I replaced all four of my half shaft u-joints once, drove the car, realized the new ones were looser than the old ones, and took them all back for a refund. They were Precision brand. Now I have a collection of old half-shafts with factory u-joints that I wlll use as replacements. I like old factory quality better than new auto parts store quality. By the way, some, maybe all, of the factory joints come with a small cap, slotted for a flat blade screwdriver, for the zerk fitting hole. The idea is to install the fitting, grease them, then remove the fitting and put the cap in the hole. There are also short zerk fittings available that won't bind. Edit - I think that I should have said + and + on the tolerances. Of course it all depends on what part is being measured. Fun.

I have a 76 Z, and I haven't even been able to get the two leads off so that I can short them. It seems to be the most difficult component to work on in my car. Can't see any windings, it's all covered, can't reach any mounting screws, can't reach the wires. Might be easier on a 240 without the relays and bracketry in the way.

Isn't the critical dimension across the u-joint itself, from the inner edges of the clip grooves? That's the machined dimension in the yoke that it has to fit. Add the clip widths, both, to get the machined yoke dimension. Cup/cap height can vary.

Did you re-use the valves? Sounds like one is sticking open, either bent or galled in the guide area.

In the FSM. Engine Mechanical chapter, I believe. XenonS30

My point was that the claims about saving fuel are crap. I've read the accounts about stopping hot spots and high performance applications. I think this a case where the company is trying to grow sales by adding BS to their sales pitch. Diminishing the reputation of the company and product in the process. Not uncommon in the business world. It's sad to see. Edit - and I think that propylene glycol antifreeze will probably do the same for less money. Just one of those situations where if you don't have patent protection, people can find ways to get the benefits of your work for cheap. Too bad for Evans Cooling.

Pretty sure it's propylene glycol. You can buy it as such in any auto parts store. Without water the heat transfer properties drop and it doesn't cool as effectively as the typical water blend. Leno's either a dummy or getting paid to BS people. Probably the latter. Leno's a shill. Here's some text from the Evans web page,which, to me, confirms it's a bunch of crap. Reciting theory over reality. They probably sell molecular modifiers for gasoline for better mileage also. That would be a pretty noisy, power-sucking fan that reduced mileage by 10%. "Increasing the Operating temperature means the fan does not have to run as much, increasing fuel economy by up to 10%" Home » Engine Cooling Systems

The OP is talking about fumes from the tail pipe getting in to the cabin, I believe. It's a big problem with the S30's, maybe not so much with the S130's. It is possible to find all of the various leaks in the back of the car and fix them to keep the fumes out. It take some work though. A big leak area, for my car anyway, seemed to be the vinyl covered access board that covers the bottom of the inside of the hatch. There are small weep holes in the hatch, plus the big holes covered with rubber plugs, that can let fumes in to the internal structure of the hatch, and then through the access cover on the inside to the cabin. I took extra care to seal that with weatherstripping, and also to make sure the hatch itself seals tightly to the body. Other things to look at are the foam seals around the tail-light assembly, the access hole grommets for the various tubes and wires and any rusted out areas, like the bottom of the spare tire well. With the windows open or even just air passing over any holes on the sides of the car, the pressure inside the cabin gets lowered and the fumes that collect behind the car get pushed in through any tiny holes. I don't even smell fumes any more, unless I am stopped and get a whiff through the fresh air vents. The fumes while driving smell is gone. To Wade's point though, a cat with out an O2 sensor will probably not last long.

On the control arm bushings - take two thin scrapers or putty knives or similar, grease them up and use them to guide the bushing into place. If they're urethane, they'll compress. If you're using the metal/rubber originals, you might have a little more trouble and have to find thinner steel, but the concept might still work. On your T/C rods, it's much easier to install the T/C rods and bushings with the suspension compressed. You can actually get it all done with the car on the ground, just reaching your arm in from the front and side. The two bolts will drop in with a little wiggling and the car can be pushed around a little to get the rod nut and bushings on. With the wheel hanging it's almost impossible to get it done without torquing and compressing all kinds of things. I did it once that way before I learned.

The closer you get the IR gun the tighter the spot measured will be. Many have a diagram of the beam spread in the instructions or on the tool itself. If you're too far away you'll get an average of the hot exhaust and cool intake and other parts.

I don't know...it's got a half dash cover.