Zed Head

More clarity needed. "Before I blew it apart" - what does that mean? "before I took it apart" - is it apart now? You said that you "got a header etc. installed". That implies that someone else installed them. Do you mean that you installed it, blew it apart/took it apart, and when you put it back together these problems appeared? "before I took it apart my electric fan and fuel pump worked fine and now when you turn on the key it does'nt come on at full power". The fan or the pump or both? "It" is singular. If you took it apart and put it back together, describe what you took off to get the header on and any problems you had putting it back together. There might be some clues there. Just trying to help you describe the issue...

Pretty sure y'all are replying to threads that are over 7 years old. Trivia - the rapper Easy-E was a member of N.W.A.

I think that with the Datsunstore you never really know until you call. They're moving to a new location so, who knows, maybe they'll find some old stuff. Worth a call.

The wire in the picture is just the spring for the handle. The end of the rod is a press fit through the plastic piece that is in the hole on the door handle piece. It's L-shaped at the end. I think that I stuck a wide screwdriver between the rod and the door handle piece and popped it out with a twisting motion but it was difficult since I was trying not to break the handle. If I was going to try again I might stick a wider chisel end or scraper in there to twist the rod out, levering off of the inner door handle. When you re-install it, it's just a press fit to pop the rod end through the hole n the plastic piece. Still difficult unless you have strong finger tips. Not much room to squeeze.

Have you changed or even checked the fluid recently? Redline MT90 alone, or a blend of ATF and Swepco 201 transmission fluid (50/50 or 25/75) has "fixed" synchro problems, or bought some time, for me. The fluid can have a big impact on synchro performance. Might be worth a try, for about $30 + labor.

Post #4 here talks a little bit about the light - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36480.html

Here's a maybe - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/7073-240-z1-ac-heating-dash-venting-1

In addition to CSV enrichment,there's also another start enrichment. Probably opens the injectors longer. Maybe the ECU doesn't run the start enrichment if the CSV is not enriching either. There's a diagram in the 76 FSM, Engine Fuel chapter. The description of how the thermotime switch works, with a drawing, is in the Engine Fuel section also, for the 76 model anyway (didn't realize it until just now). The FSMs got less descriptive over the years so the ZX FSM may not have it.

Expensive, but available - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/engine-4-filters-intake-air-cleaners-4 If I was in your boat I would go to Home Depot and look at plumbing adapters and vacuum hoses and cobble something together.

Can you make it over to Index, WA? http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3305270485.html And, I'm not sure if the hose will work, but there's a 77 in Lynnwood - http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=200 You could also post here - http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/

No offense, but you did remove the gland nut, right? Can't be sure, you said you removed the "wheel mount" which is not a common term. Plus, where would you attach opposing pipe wrenches. The shaft will twist inside the strut so that wouldn't work. Not clear what you're torquing on.

The AAR just lets air past the throttle body blade. It has the same effect as cracking the throttle open a little bit (he even says that in his writing). I can't see it affecting HP at all. I read through that page and it's an odd thing to say considering the other information he shares.

Have you confirmed that the u-joints are bad? Your post reads like you could barely tell from just looking at it. Good luck if the eyeball diagnosis works out. You'll have to drain the transmission fluid when you pull the yoke unless you have fast hands. You might replace the output shaft seal if it looks leaky. It just pries out and taps in. And new fluid if it's not recent.

That is my understanding. I think that the mechanism of how the thermotime switch works is similar to the AAR except that instead of a bimetal strip closing a valve it opens an electrical switch. The thermotime switch looks like the ground for the CSV in the wiring diagram. The bimetal strip heater in the switch and the CSV get power from the same source, and the ground for the CSV runs through the contact side of the switch. Heat from the engine can also open the thermotime switch, just like the AAR. Looks like DZR might think (or thought) that the CSV stays open when the engine is cold. You realize that this is a zombie thread from 2007?...

That's two of three that you've swapped. The coil is left. I've heard of cases where the heat of usage will open up a broken wire in a coil. You might check the resistance on the primary (coil + to coil -) and secondary (coil + or - to the center wire) circuits before and after the problem. If it's the coil they would check out okay, then not okay.

Relays most likely won't fix back your low beams, if that's what you're trying to fix. The problem is probably in the ground circuit at the dimmer switch. If it's the same type of switch as the 280Z you can fix it by spraying contact cleaner in to the switch and working it around or by taking the switch apart and cleaning up the contacts.

Did you use a lug wrench to check nut tightness? And the second part of your sentence is unclear. What are these spacers that make things flush against the rotor?

The hose broken in half is not a brake line. Brake lines are small and made of hard metal. The loose cap has a metal ring that turns about halfway to lock the cap down. Brake fluid goes there. Brake lines will be coming out of the bottom of the metal cylinder that the cap and reservoir are attached to. The other cap in the picture covers a brake fluid reservoir also. The loose wire might be a ground wire for your distributor. You can check if it's a ground with an ohm-meter. There are others here who know more about carbs. You are way back at the very beginning of the learning curve for engines. Be careful. Finding a friend who knows about early car engines would help you out a lot.

A couple of years ago a guy tried to swap a 77 harness in to a 78 and had problems. There are differences that are hard to figure out, for example the fuel pump relay setup and the voltage regulation. Compare the wiring diagrams before you decide to start tearing things out. Might be easier to just fix the bad 75 connections and individual wires. The EFI harness is a complete sub-assembly and is identical, I believe, so swapping just that sub-harness and leaving the body harness might be an option. The doors are different between the two models you have. Most internal parts won't swap, but the door handles and trim parts will. The ECUs and/or AFMs might be the same part number, depending on where the car came from. The brake wheel cylinders in the back are different but the suspensions will swap over as complete units, brakes attached. The 78 cylinders are cheaper and of a better design, dual piston versus sliding cylinder. The windshield and hatch will swap. Heater parts may or may not be different. I had a similar situation, a 76 runner, and a 78 parts car.

The purpose of measuring at the ECU connector is to see what the ECU sees. The numbers you measured are not what the ECU is expecting, so now you should measure at the AFM. If the numbers at the AFM are the same as at the ECU connector then the problem is in the AFM. IF the AFM measures differently (hopefully correctly), then the problem is in the wiring and connections from the AFM to the ECU.

I have one. How much are you offering?

???? You might post a picture of the "wrong" one so that no one tries to send you another.

No, I got my thinking screwed up using the engine calculator and putting negative numbers in the head gasket box to simulate the head shave (the calculator reports piston head contact, probably because the equations used are adding the HG thickness to the deck height). You are right, shaving the head should not cause piston-head contact. Sorry for that, I didn't think it through before I posted. I think that numbers reported by the calculator are pretty close though. Of course, a .074" (1.9 mm) HG would get his head back to where it started.

madkaw makes a good point. Actually, it's not clear what the intent is of the work done. I used one of the calculators and get 8.5 CR for the saved head, versus 7.3 for the stock setup. So now it's actually similar to an N42/N42 setup in CR, and with dished pistons. Plus, the calculator says that the pistons will hit the head. So you might need a thicker head gasket to get back to usable. Flat tops come out at 10.1 CR, but pistons still hitting the head. Looks like a 2.0 mm HG might get you back to 8.4 CR with flat tops, 7.3 with dished pistons. Here's the calculator if you want to explore options - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ You can put a negative number in the HG thickness box to simulate the shaved head. Subtract the shave from the HG thickness.

I measured the compressed fire ring of the HG I removed from what looked like a never disturbed, original (numbers matching), engine in my 1976. I got 1.25 mm also.