Zed Head

So, back to the OP's question then, as long as the right rotor is paired with the right hub, no discernible change in performance. 280 rotor with 280 hub or 240 with 240. And if does take them apart, all he needs to do is confirm that the offset is right when reassembled, which would be the measurement from wheel face to bearing race. Is this for the early 240s or all of them? I'm surprised that the carpartsmanual calls out the same part number for both, hub and rotor. The parts "bible" is wrong?

That's interesting information. I was under the impression that the S30 wheel base was the same from 240 to 280. You're suggesting that they're different, unless Nissan used different rim offsets, to offset the hub offset. Interesting stuff, especially since the 240s have problems with half-shaft binding when the R200 is installed. i would get some numbers myself if I was at the right computer. Eidt - I have some 78 280Z hubs and rotors sitting in my garage. I could measure hub thickness from inner bearing race edge to wheel mounting surface Thursday night or Friday morning. If someone has a 240 hub we could get a comparison.

It could just be mechanical, not electrical. I had one that would not drop below 2,000 when it got warm but would drop to normal when it cooled off.

What markings are on the injectors you have, and what color are they? I get the impression that some injector companies ID their injectors by color, not marking. My BWD injectors just have RAM molded in to the part, but I don't know if it means anything.

ZX? Looks like a BCDD. No reason for fuel to come out of the hose though.

When you said they took it apart and had the parts in a box, I was thinking of the assembled gears on the adapter plate and the front and back cases, along with a few odd parts. Didn't realize that they would tear it all the way down, taking gears and bearings off of the shafts. Most of what I've read suggests that it's a bad idea to reuse a bearing once you use a puller on it, because it puts high side loads on the ball bearings when they're not rolling, damaging the race and the ball. If that's true, then Aamco knew they had done some damage and was going to put it back together anyway. They should have been able to give you a rough idea without removing the gears and bearings. I think that you might be stuck now, needing a rebuild of at least bearings and probably a little polishing on the gear cones if they do have rust on them (I've read that it can be done). I'm not sure that putting the old bearings and gears back on and running it would be a good idea. I could be wrong. The $131 might still be a decent price for a teardown, if you can get a rebuilder to discount that portion of a rebuild. Now you've got a bunch of choices. Good luck. Edit - One more thought - before you spend more money and time, you might be happier, in the long run, sourcing a late 80 - 83 5 speed, with the close ratio 1-4 gear set. The 77 has the big 2-3 jump and is not the best transmission to rebuild anyway. 80 - 83 has a better reverse lockout also.

I believe that they call this necro-posting. But, at least it completes the thread (dead) for future searchers.

Looks like they're all the same - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/FrontAxle/tabid/1728/Default.aspx

Take a shot of the pointy parts of the teeth on the bronze colored thin gears (synchros), edge on. And try to keep the synchros with the gear that they were on. They should stay matched if possible. I hope the shop didn't just toss everything in a box. Also, if you could take a shot of the conical shiny portion on the side of the gear (upper right in the bottom picture) it looks like there might be some surface rust there. I have an old transmission in my car, and it took a few hundred or more miles before the synchros worked right. I had a theory that the synchro cones had rusted, taking time to wear back in, and you might have some evidence to confirm that it happens. I don't see any dramatic damage. The bearings can stick on the inner race (shaft) or the outer race (housing), it's not uncommon.

I'm no expert. It should work and I'm 99.9% positive it won't hurt. For the record, I went out and measured one that I have in my garage and got 0.477 microfarads (477 nanofarads, tiny numbers). My memory lost some zeros.

It's a small item and might not be on a typical parts store web site. Baxter Auto, a west coast store, carries them, and has them through Amazon also - http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-02100-Ignition-Condenser/dp/B000BYELIM I'd be surprised if Napa didn't have them if you called and asked, or paid a visit. It will be aftermarket though so you'll probably have to make a bracket for the body or make sure you get one that has a bracket. You could also buy a set of points even though you have electronic ignition. They will come with a new condenser. I've measured a few and only found two readings, about 50 microfarads and 75 microfarads, if I recall. I doubt that a few microfarads will make a big difference. If you're looking for 1976 stock that could be a search.

I wrote the following while you were editing. You can take the hose off of the AFM and hold the flap open while starting to test the cutoff switch. "In your first post you said it wouldn't start unless the fuel line was pinched, which implies low fuel pressure. But now it will start but won't keep running. How long does it stay running? If it's just a few seconds, then it might be the fuel pump cutoff switch in the AFM. It's bypassed at Start but comes in to play at On."

I would go get it in a box, soon so that parts don't get lost, bring it home, take pictures and post them here. The plug might have been cleaned when the fluid was drained so no clues on condition there. You can take the shifter out of your 72, from inside the car, to test the 5 speed. The shifters will interchange. It's just a clip, and a pin and it pops out. The hardest part is not dropping the clip or having it fly out and hit you in the eye. The parts the shop mentioned are standard full rebuild parts, but the shift forks rarely need work. Sounds like they just quoted you a full, like-new, rebuild cost. It's not Aamco is it? I worked at an Aamco for a summer and their modus operandi is to rebuild everything that drives on to the lot, whether it needs it or not. It's corporate policy.

Hopefully on someone elses's car?

Did you try Zspecialties? He's in your neighborhood. Might not be on the web site but he might have one. http://www.zspecialties.com/

There appears to be a 77 280Z at the Arlington Pick n Pull.

Thinking about how things work, I think that the piston and valve may have collided and you probably have a bent valve. That's how the valve keeper popped out. The lash pad probably got crunched on its way out also. Looks like the valve got stuck open, the piston came up and hit it when the rocker arm was up, punching the valve up faster than the spring could move and letting the keeper and lash pad free. That's the only way I could see that that would happen. Hopefully for you, I'm wrong. You could do a compression check and see if that cylinder holds. If it had a bent valve it should give a zero pressure reading. Edit - For the record, I posted this before I read TimZ's post over on Hybridz. He beat me by 15 minutes. But that's two for valve damage. Different theories, but hard to imagine that you got away free. Also, you can't measure pressure unless you put that keeper back in. You'll probably find though, by spinning the valve and moving it up and down, that it's bent or bound up. Don't let it fall in to the cylinder if you pull the other keeper half out. Full disclosure - I have not even had my cylinder head apart, I'm just working from words I've read.

The bypass plug (adapter) is for the 240Zs. bhermes has a 76 280Z. It's still not too difficult, using home-made jumpers at the plug, although there is the brake check warning lamp relay to worry about. Although, it may be that bhermes is refusing to be beaten by the external system. He'll probably make it work then switch to the internal just to show complete mastery.

Thanks Jeff, that's a good look. Wish I had paint like that. I just posted on Hybridz about using KYBs with Tokicos and got some feedback that it should work fine. I'll try the springs with the KYBs and see if I need to look for another HP shock or not. Should take some of the harsh out of the full Tokico setup, I would guess.

You can at least run it through the gears out of the car and listen for grinding bearings. Wiggle the shafts and see if they're tight. Replace the seals. Did the shop give a written estimate, or mention any damage?

You went from $100 to $1100 or more just to be sure the installation work was worth the effort. Whoa. What kind of alternatives are you looking for, a cheaper place to get a rebuild or a better way to ensure that the 5 speed works once installed? What did the shop find inside the transmission? Did they recommend a rebuild or just tell you what the cost would be? It might be fine as is. You could probably find a whole car with a 5 speed, that you could actually test drive to evaluate the transmission performance, for less than $1100. If you don't need like new condition.

Some meters have a capacitor test function. One lead on the body and one lead on the center wire. The value would be in Farads (named after Faraday, I assume). Microfarads, actually, I believe. It's mysterious...

Cure temperature is very important on these types of two component coatings. A coating applied in the cold could take a long time to fully cure, or not even make it. If it doesn't cure fully, it will soak up fuel, swell, and fail. Ideally, the coating would get a good final stage heat soak before adding fuel. Bring it inside with the family for a day or three before installing. Leave it out in the sun. Put a heat lamp on it. A coating applied in the cold could also flow to the low spots before it sets up, leaving thin areas. Following directions closely is important, no cheating. I've done some work in the coatings industry. For what it's worth.

"After it dies it won't start unless the fuel line is pinched off. Fuel pressure is there but not measured, " Just helping you focus...

I had a similar problem, with oil running down the fork to the boot. I haven't confirmed it, because I have a different transmission in the car, but I think that it might have been leaking from the clutch fork pivot stud. On the FS5W71B, the hole for the stud threads all the way through the front cover to where the transmission fluid is. Looks like you have one of the 71A transmissions but it would be worth checking.