Zed Head

I'm not positive for the early blocks, but I think that if you look at your engine block, right above the starter, just below the head/block interface, you'll see a flat pad with some letters and numbers stamped in to it. L24, L26 or L28 are usually the first three symbols. The engine serial number follows. If the numbers match those on the ID plate on the strut tower, you have a "numbers matching" engine/body combo. If not, at least you'll have an idea what engine you have.

These manifolds don't have a heat riser like small-block chevy engine carburetor manifolds do, for example. That passage is the EGR gas passage, if I'm looking at what I think I am (the closeup view makes it hard to be sure) and if you don't block the hole, you'll have a vacuum leak directly in to the intake manifold. Someone else on this forum had a similar problem, but the hole was not that big. Same effect though.

One possibility is your water temperature sensor. Resistance in the circuit will lead the ECU to adjust for a cold engine and dump more gas. Another possibility is your FPR. My 1976 car's FPR regulated pressure high when it got hot. Measure fuel pressure when the engine and FPR are hot, but be aware that the oil-filled gauges can be inaccurate when they're hot so make sure the gauge is cool.

It's a 3.9 open. Came from the same ZX as the 5 speed. I'll be spending more time in the low RPM range. I don't think that I've had my engine up to 6000 RPM, let alone 6500. With my stock 76 280Z setup, it's time to shift at about 5500 if you're really pushing it. I do feel the bog from 2 to 3 though with the 78 transmission.

Good news. By amazing, you mean the tighter, more evenly space 1 - 4 gears? Are you still using the 3.54 differential the 1976s come with? I have an 83 5 speed that I'll be putting in soon, but mainly because the 78 5 speed I'm using is making some bearing noise. Still debating on 3.54 or 3.9 rear gears, I have each. My gut says I should find a 3.7 though.

Somebody has to have a four speed sitting in the garage, left over after the typical five speed swap. I know I do, but I'm in Oregon. They usually go for cheap, I just saw one on the Portland CL for $25. You should be able to keep your pressure plate, throwout collar, and fork combination and be good to go. Just swap the transmission. The other critical dimension would be the distance of the fork pivot ball from the slave cylinder, which you should be able to verify before installation, but I'm not sure if it changes after they started using the F4W71B case. The distance was the same on my 76 4 speed, 78 5 speed and 83 5 speed. From my reading it seems that all of the trans swap problems come from finding the right combination of pressure plate height and throwout bearing collar. If your combo works, keep using it. You might need to change the speedometer gear if the the donor car had a different rear gear ratio. The speedo gear needs to match the differential.

The answer to that question is on Hybridz also. Hard to miss. Some of the relevant posts come with a cool picture.

By "shop manual" do you mean the FSM? The FSM has a big wiring diagram in the back and a smaller wiring diagram n the Electrical section that should show you where the wires are attached, with drawings and descriptions of what the components do. A 1979 or 80 280ZX FSM should show the E12-80 module. You will probably find that you only need a jumper from coil positive to the module positive and the coil negative only connects to module negative. The module controls current through the coil by "gating" the flow through the negative terminal of the coil. You would only need to modify the ballast connections if you are changing the coil. But you can do that as a separate operation. An ohm/volt meter is useful also for determining what wires are grounded and which have power. Typically there is a black ground wire from a distributor mounting bolt to ground, to ensure a good ground for the module. Your question doesn't tell where the black wire comes from. You could also search a little more, I'm almost positive there's a write-up out there about putting the ZX distributor on an early 240Z.

I took Blue's suggestion on the AtlanticZ site and beat the pin back and forth with a hammer to get it started, using an old mag wheel lug nut (same thread as the pin) on the ends to save the threads (at least that's what was proposed but apparently he actually cut it out with a Sawzall). Squirted PB Blaster in the lock pin hole and around each end and just worked it back and forth. It got looser and looser with each beating (and I do mean "beating"). I did destroy a couple of old lug nuts though, in the process. After that, I didn't have a puller, so I used a long bolt with the end ground down to a blunt point to save the threads and beat it the rest of the way out. FWIW, I also found that one big problem with beating the pin out, which the puller doesn't have, is that if it's stuck in the bushing (not the strut housing or knuckle), the rubber of the bushing will pull it back in the hole after you get it moved. If you're replacing the bushing, you can just use a torch and burn the rubber to get it out. But that's off-topic - The puller holds the pin in place after it moves so you won't have that problem. But people should be aware that the pin can get just as stuck in the inner bushing as in the cast iron housing. At least one of mine was. PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench for all pin surfaces.

Make sure that your floor jack doesn't leak. It's a great irritation to have the elevation of the transmission slowly changing while you're trying to get things lined up. And make sure you get the car high enough to slide the transmission out before you start. It's possible to get it removed but stuck under the car, requiring more wasted time running around re-adjusting the jack stands. Plus, beware the trans tipping off the floor jack, unless you're going to bench press it out and in like some do.

Here is an expensive replacement - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3470 I don't think that the diode and resistor measurements are critical, from my limited understanding. They are there mainly to stop electrical spikes in the circuits when the contacts open and close (I believe it might be referred to as "flyback" - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode) Here's another link with some recommended diodes for a similar purpose - http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm More info - http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/Relay%20data%20sheet.pdf If you're thinking about trying to make your own, you probably know this anyway, but just in case. Looks interesting, if you get it to work. You might find a stock Datsun replacement on EBay also.

You should really give more info about the collection of parts. Stock cam, stock heads, stock head gasket, initial timing, total timing, EFI, stock intake manifold, etc? I think that that is where the problems come from when people try to run high compression. Without the details it's just a head designation number and a piston. And your 10:1 CR doesn't quite match what the stock N47 flat top combo should give, unless you rounded up, according to available information. 9.75:1 is what I've seen. Not to mention the gasoline quality. In Oregon we only have up to 92 octane 10% ethanol fuel at the common gas station. The detonation is in the details.

Flat top pistons came out with the P79 head. N42 blocks came with dished pistons so it looks like someone installed flat-tops in a typical N42/N47 engine. With an N47 head you will have a higher compression ratio, and if the predominant word on the internet is correct, detonation problems on pump gas. There are some out there who install the flat-tops just for the higher compression ratio,then retard the timing to avoid detonation. Some have reported that they don't have to retard the timing and don't have problems. Others have reported constant problems. It's hard to tell what really works. One option, if you keep it the way it is, would be to use a thicker head gasket to drop the CR. Check out this calculator - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Under Pistons, "L28 Late" would be flat tops, "L28 Early and Turbo" would be dished. Or you could get a P79 or P90 head and be back to a normal late model L28 NA style engine. Or run the higher CR and see what happens.

The intake system pulls a vacuum on the crankcase when the PCV system is connected properly. So any leaks in the PCV or through the valve cover gasket or the big hose from the valve cover (actually part of the PCV system) are leaks in to the intake manifold, bypassing the AFM vane, causing a lean condition. All air must pass through the AFM for the EFI system to work correctly, no exceptions. Are you sure that your PCV is missing? There's not much to it and looking from outside (how did you get your eyeball under there?) it looks like a flat disc sitting in a metal fitting. They do get gummed up (maybe that's the carbon), but can be cleaned with some carb cleaner. I had the contact switch in my newly rebuilt AFM stop working right after I got it. I think that a small piece of debris got on to the tiny contact switch and kept it open. I never found whatever was holding it open, but after I mucked around with it and put it back together it's worked fine ever since.

The main benefit to electronic over points is lower maintenance. What benefits are you looking for? Edit - took some vague comments out.

FastWoman is right, the AFM's for 1976 came with the fuel switch in them and your symptoms sound like yours is not working. The switch is bypassed during Starting, but comes in to play when the key is at On. So if the switch doesn't work, the pump will turn off when you let go of the key. The engine then runs until fuel pressure drops. It's odd though, that the engine ran with the other AFM, since it probably would not have had the switch if it was the wrong one. There were only a few years that used it, and I think that they all were the same AFM model. What are the AFM numbers? There are pictures on the atlanticz site of the switch. It's under the black cover. You can bend the rod that moves the switch to make it work correctly, if that's the problem. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Cut wires will typically give a nothing response, not a sometimes response. Low voltage through or to a relay will give a sometimes response. Wouldn't hurt to measure the voltage at the starter solenoid while trying to start the engine. Reattaching cut wires can have unintended consequences.

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&source=hp&q=ultra+copper&pbx=1&oq=ultra+copper&aq=f&aqi=g3g-m2&aql=1&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=2260l5167l0l5348l12l12l0l0l0l0l531l3588l2-3.3.2.2l10l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=3e82efc6cc141df0&biw=1280&bih=860

The B.E.G.I regulators allow the addition of "extra" fuel, by increasing fuel pressure at a greater then 1:1 ratio under boost. Here's a link, I can't find what B.E.G.I. stands for but I think the B.E. is Bell Engineering - http://www.bellengineering.net/PDF/FMU%20Instructions.pdf Apparently the one referred to in the link is used along with the stock regulator. Either way, you don't need a boost referenced or rising rate regulator with your NA engine. But you really should measure your pressure under load as recommended in your other thread. The more you know, the less "extra" money you'll spend. If you do decide to go with a new regulator though, I would avoid the Aeromotive brand. No offense to FastWoman (she mentioned the brand in the other thread), but I have one and although it is well-made and works great while the engine is running, it has a basic design flaw which lets the pressure leak out rapidly when the pump is turned off. If I don't prime the rail before hitting Start, the engine will crank for a long time before starting. It's a good anti-theft feature and might be indirectly helping the "hot-start" issue (with fresh cold gasoline) but it's kind of tiresome to wait for the rail to pressurize after every stop.

Use the word "Ford" in addition to those LeonV suggested. You'll find some fixes.

I pondered that but wasn't sure. All I see in the pictures is a Tee fitting. So I conjectured.

If you did these tests with the key at On, it looks like your Fuel Injection harness fusible link is blown, disconnected or has a corroded connection. It is the single green wire, that looks like some sort of extension with a connector on each end, connected to a white wire directly from the battery positive terminal. If it is in its original spot, it may be attached to the side of the relay box with a long plastic peg. OR, your FI and Fuel Pump relay is bad. It is combined for the 1976 model, attached up above the hood release handle. A silver box, about 1 x 1 x 2". With the key On you should have battery voltage at the dropping resistors, they are fed directly by the EFI/Pump relay, which is on the circuit with the FI fusible link. There are some good diagrams on pages EF-25 and more in the FSM. EDIT - Blue covered the relay in Posts #3, 4 and 5. That's the one. His diagram shows where the link is also. It's green.

The clicking behind the dash is probably an effect, not a cause. When the engine RPM drop the fuel pump contact switch in the AFM opens, killing power to the fuel pump relay. Then the mixture leans out, engine RPM goes up, the contact closes again, and repeat. Usually good for a few clicking cycles before the engine dies or it smooths out. Have you measured fuel pressure? It is one of the most important variables in an EFI engine. Another possibility is your ignition module. Next time it starts running poorly, with bucking etc., stop and turn the key off. Then restart it. If the problem goes away temporarily that's a good sign that the ignition module is going bad. I could get my 76 module to do that when it went bad just by taking it to about 3200 RPM. Turn it off and restart and I could drive around all day below 3000 RPM. The dipping idle might be because your air/fuel mixture at idle is all out of whack now. If fuel pressure or the module turn out to be the problem hopefully you can get back to where you started. And the two white wires are apparently for some sort of diagnostic test. Everyone has them and they're all disconnected.

34 and 25 aren't that bad, as FastWoman suggests. The 25 psi with the vacuum hoses connected is an indication that you actually have fairly good intake vacuum, since intake vacuum is what moves the FPR diaphragm to drop the fuel pressure. The 48 psi before the fuel filter (I think that's what you meant, not from the filter) seems kind of high. You might have a partially clogged filter. But I don't know what a pre-filter pressure should be, so can't really say. Your car should run fairly well though with the vacuum hose connected to the FPR, at those 34 and 25 psi numbers. It might be somewhat lean, but not dramatically. What do you mean by "waaay better" and did you let the engine get to full operating temperature? It will run way better with a rich mixture when it's cold, but will run worse when it's hot. You might do a little more investigating before you spend the cash on an adjustable FPR.

A short stroke with a 3 pound maul on a good tight wrench might work. Heavier is better so that you can spend more effort on precise aiming and less on swinging. How would you extract the broken head bolt without removing the head? I might be more worried about that than the lash adjustment, it could be a sign of bigger problems. How did it break? And what does carbon-filled mean? Do you have some numbers on your current lash settings? I'm curious about how loose they are, and how they got that way.