Zed Head

Almost as good - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Body260Z280Z/2Seater/DoorMouldingFinisherArmRestMirror/tabid/1794/Default.aspx

Have you had the cable off of the back of the odometer before? It's possible to tighten the tiny screw down enough to make the odometer work sometimes, but without the screw actually being seated in the tiny hole. I had a similar problem,where I couldn't reset the odometer, it just slipped. Once I got the screw seated correctly, it worked fine.

My car's had the hot start stumbling problem more often recently so I decided to try something. In my case, the problem seems like a lean condition, based on the intake backfires and the lack of gasoline smell or smoke in the exhaust. I also noticed that if the temperature gauge went higher than usual, like up to the middle of the M, that the problem was likely to happen. So I bought a 5 kohm Audio Taper Potentiometer and spliced it in to the water temperature circuit as a rheostat (two wires connected, one left open). Mounted it by the hood release handle in the cabin so that I could tune it when needed. It's basically the part behind the volume knob on an amplifier. The linear taper potentiometer changed resistance too fast (I had my ohm-meter in the Radio Shack store). It can only be used to add resistance so will only add more fuel. When the engine is running normally, I can't turn the knob, increasing the resistance, at all without the RPM dropping as the injectors stay open longer. But today I had two "hot start" cases where turning it stopped the stumbling and smoothed the running. I still had to wait about 15 seconds before I could take off, but it seemed to clear up faster, probably because the water pump was pumping more water, cooling the WTS down to true engine temperature. Plus, at least it was running well, instead of jerking and popping. My current theory is that the WTS overheats due to residual heat from the exhaust manifold (the only engine part that doesn't really get cooled by the radiator coolant) indicating a hotter engine, needing less gas. This may be why Nissan moved the sensor to the other side of the head on the P79 head. It's just a guess. Maybe the injectors also get hot or maybe it's just hot injectors and adding fuel still helps. Who knows. It really seems to work though. It's worth a shot if anyone else wants to try it.

You might explain to him that he already has electronic ignition. Maybe he thinks that he has a 240Z, which came with points. The "lite" in Unilite mean optical I believe. Unilite - optical, Crane XR3000 - optical, Nissan 1975 280Z, variable reluctor. All three are electronic. They'll all do the job, but not together. You'll still have to disconnect the factory unit, since it will still be running current through the coil if you don't.

Your customer does not know what he's asking, I think. But, of course, he's right. If you don't unplug the factory module, the circuit doesn't break and you won't get spark. Just unplug it, it is a branch off of the blue wire. The ECU and the tach need the blue wire to be connected to the coil - terminal. No, the module is in the passenger kick panel area. You should download the FSM and read the Electrical section. The factory ballast has two resistive circuits, one low for starting and one high for running. If you just have two then you'll need to run the starting circuit and the running circuit both to one side and the output to the coil + from the other end. The smoke means that the resistor is getting hot because there's a short on the coil side, which might mean that the module wire is not corrected properly. The module is the "breaker" part of the spark circuit. Sounds like your circuit is always "made".

Stop using the Haynes manual and get the Factory Service Manual. It's free -http://xenons30.com/reference.html

The ballast resistor might have connection markings molded in to it. The factory unit does. I don't think that you will see the lower voltage unless current is flowing. You're probably right about the blue wire and the injector pulse. You might be losing spark because you haven't disconnected the factory ignition module. Which brings up the general point of why are you installing a new distributor, with its own ignition module (not sure if all Unilites come with their own module but I think that they do), when the 75 came with its own? Did the old module go bad? Did you unplug it?

Those are the same as my 76 bumpers. As jimbob said, it's the end rubber and rubber shelf in the middle that's hard to find, in good shape. The bumpers themselves are pretty durable. I notice in your pictures that the front bumper is dented and the rubber is gone. Did you toss the rubber or just not show it?

How did you solve the door problem? Don't know what year car you have but ZSpecialties is having a sale on some bits and they also carry others - http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/pName/door-gasket-top-7678-right/osCsid/3e544089f9a7e83cea9e4b6ff4660701

The replies above are based on the engine work, but for an old 240Z, the body might be more important. Search "buying a 240Z" here or on Google and you'll find lots of tips to avoid buying a rusted out shell. The rusty areas tend to be hidden and hard to find, and can cost a lot of money to fix. Interior and wiring and glass, etc. can all add up. Just another perspective. Depends on how much hurry you're in to be driving and how fast you can learn, on which car you get. You didn't say if the one with an engine is running or not either. Plus, the fastest way to more power for a 240Z is to put a 280Z or ZX engine in. Search and read, there are a lot of good stories out there.

May be a sign of the times, but I'm sure that last summer I Googled around to see what a flywheel cost, to compare to having one resurfaced. I found several sources at about $55 refurbished, including a local shop, Mike's Auto Parts. But now nothing comes up. Maybe the common source for rebuilt Z flywheels has shut down. All that comes up now is expensive Fidanza flywheels, at ridiculous prices. Hoard those old flywheels, they might be getting melted down, as we read.

I may be wrong but I think that any L engine flywheel will bolt to the crankshaft of an L24. I've seen them for sale (can't remember where though), I'm surprised that your shop couldn't locate one. You might consider finding a donor car with a manual and all of the other parts that you'll need for the conversion.

Interesting, but the links don't work. "Server not found" message.

I'm not really sure, I never tested mine, it was actually a spare that I was checking out. I installed it, started it up cold, drove about a mile then it died and it wouldn't start and run without choking and dying again. I swapped the original back in and put the bad one on the shelf. Here is the thread by Z Train - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?36903-280Z-ZX-ECM-tech&highlight=rich It looks like the pictures have expired though so a little tougher to see what he was talking about.

Probably still come out smaller and neater than an MSD box (no offense to MSD users).

Just found this post over on zcar.com - http://www.zcar.com/84-89_tech_discussion_forum/fs5w71c_front_seal_cover_removal_897268.msg2703340.html#msg2703340 He took the pivot bolt out and ran a longer bolt in to bottom out on the case and push the cover off. Probably why one of mine leaked, someone probably did this and didn't reseal the threads when they put it back together.

Wow, 48 years before you had to submit! That's impressive, as is your ability to communicate on the internet right away. The internet is a strange place, good luck with it. You might have the Factory Service Manual (FSM) on that disk already. If not, you can down load it here - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html The TPS, coolant temperature sensor and the AFM are the primary sources of fuel enrichment, through the ECU. BUT, your problem does sound very similar to an ECU problem that comes up occasionally. I had a bad one that went really rich all of a sudden, then died completely, and a member here, Z Train, has also wrote about ECU problems that caused rich running. He and others have reported that they could bang on the side of the ECU and fix it temporarily. Apparently some of the old solder connections can crack and lose contact. It's a stretch but something to consider if all of the test numbers come out right.

You seem to able to read well, and use the computer to find this forum and sign up and post at least 33 times. Therefore, I suggest that you download the 1983 Factory Service Manual and read up on the differences between the NA (none) engine and the turbo engine. Unfortunately, because of your handicapped writing skills, people will have a hard time understanding what you're asking in your forum posts. Blame the public school system. It's unusual to come across someone who can't at least end a sentence with a period and capitalize the next letter, but I guess it's possible, so good luck with it. Here's the link - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html I would read the Engine Fuel section first. E.F.I is for the non turbo engines and E.C.C.S is for the turbo engines. They use different wiring harnesses.

All I said was I think that you're messing with people. Why don't you capitalize the first letter in each sentence? Why don't you capitalize "I"? Why do you spell you as "u". You can read it and understand it in the replies, so you must know it's not right. I'm criticizing your lack of effort, that's all. It's the one thing most of us have control of. Good luck. Maybe some kind forum member will help you out anyway.

"sapost" is the fatal slip-up. If you can phoneticize "supposed to" in to "sapost", you have the ability to spell and punctuate. Busted, bigmime. You're no dummy, you're just messing with people.

I posted this in your other "new" thread. Some details on the "fuel injection circuit test related to the AFM" might help you out. What was wrong? Good luck. From other thread - "Download the FSM. Run through the tests in the Engine Fuel section. You'll need an ohm-meter and a fuel pressure gauge. Without measurements it's just gambling. Measurements at the ECU connector are best. More history on the car and engine would be good also. Did the engine run fine for ten years and start doing this or did you just buy the car and it's done this since you got it? "

I just noticed that you've reposted your problems and already have a bunch of replies in another thread. It's all the same crowd...

Download the FSM. Run through the tests in the Engine Fuel section. You'll need an ohm-meter and a fuel pressure gauge. Without measurements it's just gambling. Measurements at the ECU connector are best. More history on the car and engine would be good also. Did the engine run fine for ten years and start doing this or did you just buy the car and it's done this since you got it?

I never found any good connectors. I cut up a GM alternator plug to make my own but they didn't really work very well. I put the whole assembly in a metal project box which keeps the connectors from getting bumped loose and protects from the elements. I think that there is a stock wiring sub-harness for the module, as its used in the distributor, that you might be able to find.

Ask for an HEI module for a 1977 Camaro. They'll probably have a few different brands, like Standard, Elgin or BWD. That diagram looks right. One benefit of getting a module and connecting it now is that you'll know it works before the other one dies. If you wait until the other one dies, you'll be stuck not knowing for sure if it's the module or not. That's why I hooked mine up, then I left it for while, now I can't see any reason to disconnect it. I still have a stock module, disconnected, in its original spot. Good luck.