Zed Head

The clicking sound was probably a relay turning off as the oil pressure dropped when the engine RPM got too low. The "standard starter clicking" sounds a lot like the "standard dead battery". You should provide more information like - how far away is "just"? In other words, had you been driving it for weeks, days or hours before it died and won't restart? By won't turn over, you mean the engine does not rotate? (People get crank, turn over, start, etc. mixed up all the time). That would be a low battery, most likely, if it was running recently. Was the Charge light in the voltmeter on before it died? The first thing you might do is charge up the battery, make sure you have clean battery terminals, and see if it will turn over. It might start right up. Of course, make sure that you have gas in the tank also. It doesn't sound like a problem that needs a professional mechanic.

If it is a low pedal from too much travel on the rear shows, it might be fixed by setting and releasing the parking brake multiple times. Each pull ratchets the shoes a little wider, if it's working right. Worth a shot, if you don't want to take things apart again, plus it's a good test of the mechanism. And it will tell you how loose the back shoes are. If the shoes are loose, the lever will come way up. When they get close to proper tightness, it will only come up a couple of inches.

Interesting. I looked at the wring diagram in the Emissions section (EC-16) and it looks like the relay supplies power to the ignition module when the key is on. Maybe it's a dual function relay. I don't really understand Nissan's relay drawings though, it shows the ign. module circuit as closed and the EGR solenoid as open, but both are on the water temperature switch control circuit. Maybe it disables the advance circuit n the automatic transmission module when the engine gets hot, and they just forgot to describe it in the FSM. It looks redundant. Is there actually a wire there in a manual transmission model, or is it only shown in the FSM? Re your second paragraph - yes, that's what I meant. You can save a lot of money, but you lose the use of the second pickup coil.

Essentially, but you left out the dwell control function. I think that Nissan calls it "duty cycle". When they went to the computer controlled timing they also transferred dwell control to the computer. That's why you can replace the big bulky 260Z and 280Z Nissan ignition module with the small GM HEI module, which also does dwell control, as long as you don't need the pickup coil switching function. $25 instead of $300+ (for a 1976 module at O'Reilly Auto). The 75-77 (maybe the 74 260Z too) manual transmission cars also had a water temperature controlled second pickup coil in the distributor, usage controlled by the ignition module.

280 could include the 280ZX. They went to computer controlled timing with the 280ZXes that came with the Electronic Concentrated Engine Control System (ECCS ) (I think it was for turbos only but could be wrong) and the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS).

Good points about the master cylinder. Did the fluid level ever drop to the bottom of the reservoir during bleeding? That could have introduced a bubble in the master cylinder. You have to keep the fluid level off the bottom of the reservoir during the whole process, once you start. Also, apparently, the master cylinder seals can be damaged by the bleeding process if they run over crud at the bottom of the bore. But if they pump up, it's more likely air n the system. The brake light in the dash turns on because of the pressure imbalance between front and back. It's a warning light that something's wrong. Pumping the brakes balances the pressure. Good luck, brakes can be time-consuming to get right.

Are you sure the fronts are good? How can you tell that they're perfect if the pedal goes to the floor? Did you do any work on them while you were working on the backs? The rear brakes can be weak for a while until the shoes get seated in the drums. You might have weak back brakes because they're new, with air in the front calipers causing the pump-up problem.

There is one adjustment - the idle air screw. Maybe that's what you meant by screw? It will affect your CO and hydrocarbon readings. Turning it out leans the idle mixture. I've seen somewhere out there that five turns out from all the way in is a good starting point. It's supposed to set using a gas analyzer. Does it run rich all the time or are you just trying to pass emissions?

Doesn't one or both of the magnetic switches also release to atmosphere so that the vacuum can let go? When you turn the key off, you're de-energizing the switch. Find out why that switch still has power when you're telling it to let go.

Was the "dry" test on a recently run, warmed up engine? That's what you want. You might have been too dry and too cold. If you used the long open tube adapter that comes with some gauges, that will drop the numbers. The adapter adds its volume to the combustion chamber, resulting in lower pressure. I had some 180s drop to about 120, with the adapter (if I recall correctly, I've posted the numbers in the past).

Better to take a spark plug wire off, put a spark plug in, touch the spark plug electrode to ground or ground it with a jumper wire, then watch for spark across the spark plug gap while cranking. With a screwdriver, you have to be more careful with the gap. Too big and no spark, too small and you miss the spark. With a spark plug you can be more sure. Plus it gives you a reason to take a plug out and see if it's fouled. You can also test the coil in a similar way, using the main coil wire. If you get coil spark, but not spark plug spark, look inside the distributor cap. Maybe you just need a tune-up.

Your car has a hydraulically actuated clutch. Check the slave cylinder (down by the starter, on the side of the transmission) and the master cylinder, for leakage. You'll have to peel the rubber boot back on the slave cylinder to look for fluid. Check the reservoir on the master cylinder for fluid.

Could be a shorted water temperature sensor circuit. The lower the resistance the hotter the engine looks to the ECU. Low fuel pressure is a possibility, on the hard starting and the lean intake popping. Have you measured it? The low RPM after it starts could be a stuck closed AAR.

If 5th is correct, then your engine might be running at the proper temperature, you're just not seeing the true engine temperature on your gauge. You might see if the Healey sensor and the Nissan sensor have the same resistance versus temperature characteristics and adapt the wire to the Nissan sensor, or see if you can adapt the Healey sensor to one of the holes in the Nissan thermostat housing.

Could be the ignition module. More details about before, during and after the shutdown would help. Tachometer behavior, is it a dead stop shutdown or are there a few sputters? Automatic or manual? Etc.

I was in the Lynnwood area this morning and saw a 1971 240Z in the PicknPull. It still had the engine in it, with carbs, and there were some odd good parts still left. Rear brake drums, some front end pieces, etc. The bumpers were bent up and there was some other body damage, but there might be something there for a restorer. It is incorrectly labeled as a 1971 280 on their web site - http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=98037&Lat=47.841953&Lng=-122.288181&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=20

The 77 file is the whole FSM, the 76 or 78 is broken in to chapters and will probably download and unzip. They all use the same sensor. Engine Fuel section.

Could be a vacuum leak, letting air bypass the AFM, causing a lean condition. It sounds like the fairly common lean back fire. Higher RPM might overwhelm a small leak, letting the engine run correctly. At low RPM the vacuum leak dominates. Check the big rubber hose after the AFM, the PCV hose, the breather hose to the rocker cover and the various vacuum ports on the intake manifold. Spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid on the intake/head interface and listening for RPM change will find a leaking manifold gasket.

That's a lot more information than in your previous posts. If you had a stuck valve on #4, you should be able to wiggle the rocker arm up and down on the stuck valve a lot more than the others, when the cam lobe is pointing up. The valve lash will be very loose. Or, if you've tried to adjust the valves, the lash might be too tight, holding the valve open. I think that I've also read of the lash pads coming loose and jamming the valve open. Compare how # 4 looks and feels to the one right next to it. With the plugs out, you might be able to spin the engine with your starter jumper and watch what the valves do. Some oil might spray though so have some rags handy. No fuel to the rail and good pressure up to the rail doesn't really make sense. Fuel provides the pressure so you can't have pressure without fuel. This is kind of unintelligible also - "I can voltage with the ignition switch on, but no continuity". Not sure what that means. I would spend more time looking at the valves and rocker arms on #4, and then squirting some oil in to the cylinders and re-running the compression test. If it's rings oil will add some sealing and pressure will rise. If not, it might be a valve or something else. If the intake valve was stuck open, you might get a big backfire, pressuring the crankcase and blowing your dipstick out. That much pressure might have also damaged your AFM, unless the backfire happened while it was disconnected. Maybe you got lucky on that one. Which part of the #4 spark plug was broken? That doesn't sound good either. Taking the head off is a whole new set of problems. Your engine might end up looking like the car in your avatar.

mjr, you've jumped past what your tests showed and maybe spent a little extra money. When you jumped the starter and it worked, you showed that the starter was OK. You probably didn't need to replace it. When the engine fired a few times but didn't keep running unless you used starting fluid, you showed that you have spark but no fuel. For a 75 with fuel injection, there are several reasons why the injectors might not fire. You should focus on that as the reason it won't stay running when the starter is jumpered. When you had the ignition switch apart, you might have tried turning the electrical switch with a screwdriver in the slot (maybe you did this?). This would tell you if it was the electrical switch, the wiring to the starter, or the mechanical part that turns the electrical switch when you twist the key. Basically, break the system down in to what works right and what doesn't. A basic logical approach works best when digging in to these cars, especially with the EFI engines. Even after you get it running, there will be tuning issues that need a similar approach. Good luck.

dont know what pintara is, what is compression ratio of engine with pintara pistons and p90 head? i think that your teck (sic) man said that it would ping with advanced timing not without.

Try the jumper. It will tell you something about whether it's the starter or the ignition wiring. You can also jump directly from the main stud to the blade, using a screw driver.

Is the small gauge yellow wire connected to the male blade connector on the starter solenoid, and making a good connection? You can test starter function also, by running a jumper wire from this blade and touching it to positive on the battery (low budget remote starter). If it cranks, you have a problem with the wiring, if it doesn't, with the starter.

I was off by 1/2 year. Dang. Here's a really good read on Z car differentials - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

I don't think the R200s were used in the Zs until 1975, in the 280Z. You either have an R180 or someone swapped in an R200.