Zed Head

Regarding your firing order: I found this page - http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c140/mwh5150/Firing-order.jpg in this thread on another forum - http://www.zdriver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17728 It's the same for all L6's. In your case, I would pick one plug and go around from there, rather than removing them all and restarting. Just to be sure that you don't get them in the right order but off by one spot. If it runs now, you might find two wires switched.

It might be rewired power for your antenna. When I got my car I didn't know what "that noise" from behind me was either. I think my toggle switch was factory though.

Have you looked at yours on the transmission to see if it has worked its way out of the mounting hole? I don't think that the switch is adjustable but you can remove it easily without any gear oil leaking out.

Is it the urethane that won't squeeze in or the center metal tube? I've found that slipping a couple of greased gasket material scrapers, wood putty appliers, or drywall mud tools (basically any thin piece of stiff metal) between both sides of the bushing and the sides of the mount will help them slide in, at least for the front transverse link bushings.

Looks like texasz is taking the engine and transmission out so he's going to lose some fluid anyway. It might be easier to apply torque to loosen the fill plug while the transmission and engine are in the car. If not, try to loosen it while it's still bolted to the engine. You could easily drag the transmission all over the garage floor trying to loosen the plug. Use a torch to heat the aluminum around the fill plug, it helps a lot. The FSM says 3 1/8 pints.

You should read the Engine Fuel section of the Factory Service Manual (FSM), specifically the part about fuel enrichment. You will see the many ways that extra fuel could be getting in to the engine, and the many components that need to work together to get the engine to run properly. Cold starting should not produce that much extra gas, unless the car did not start and many attempts were made to get it going. You might have a water temperature sensor problem. In general, a working PCV system will evacuate any gas or water vapor that is in the crankcase. The crankcase is under vacuum during running and the gas should vaporize and clear out.

The points have to be grounded to flow current through the coil. I think that they ground through the mounting screws, or a wire off the points bracket (haven't even seen a set of points for many years). Maybe you had a poor ground for the points. Might be worth testing with an ohm-meter to make sure you're not on the edge. Also, as I recall, the condenser used with a points distributor does more than noise reduction. It keeps the points from arcing and pitting by absorbing the first surge of voltage when they close again.

Sticking a screwdriver through the u-joint yoke is an easy way to rotate the driveshaft, to break the nuts loose. Get the wrench on the nut, then get the other end of the wrench pegged against a body part (the car's not yours) stick the screwdriver though the yoke and break the nuts loose by turning the driveshaft with the screw driver. Pretty sure I read the method here or on another forum and I've used it several times. It's easier and more convenient than trying to lock the brakes or put the car in gear.

Just wandering by. I notice that you've measured 12 volts on the + side of the coil, but didn't say what you measured on the - side.

Good news. Hope you didn't have to fight with them too hard to get the exchange. Replace "wasted" with "spent" and "Don't always" with "Don't ever"...

Yes, that's how they generally work. One of them is always hot, so that your brakes always work, key on or off. If you don't have power at either wire then you probably have a blown fuse. If you have power at one but not the other when you press the pedal then the switch is messed up. If the switch works correctly but the lights don't go on, then you probably have bad bulbs or sockets. I have had one socket build up some corrosion, which caused heat,which then melted the socket enough for the spring at the connection to push itself away from the bulb. The switch is in the middle so it's a good place to start to narrow things down. When the Down Under guys wake up they'll probably tell you where the fuse box is on a Skyline.

What's a c110? Maybe the switch at the brake pedal is stuck. Check that power is on both wires when you press the pedal, one wire when it's up.

It's not recommended to remove your battery cable like that, but since it's done and the car stayed running, it is obviously producing electricity. Is it possible that you have actually corrected all of your problems from the first few posts, with the wiring and the bad alternator (you did make some wiring fixes and the alternator is new now), and that you've been trying to verify the repairs with a bad voltmeter? Maybe everything is now working correctly. Might be worth driving to a shop or the parts store and getting a second opinion, with a second set of diagnostic equipment, on the running car.

If you're using the adapter tube that comes with many testers, it will lower the value at the gauge. The adapter/extension tube in my set lowered the reading from 180 psi to 120 psi. It adds volume.

This diagram shows the fuse as "inline". http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1971_240z.gif The 1971 FSM Supplement shows a 20A inline fuse right next to the fuse box, on the wiring diagram. On the green wire. You can get the Supplement on the xenons30 site. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

I was wrong on when the ~ 3 volts or less are on the L wire. It is low voltage when the connector is plugged in, and the key is On. That completes the connection and lets the lights and relays drop the voltage. No current flow, no dropped voltage. I just checked on my car again. I had 12 V at the connector, unplugged, with the key On, and 1.8 V measured at the back of the plug when it was connected and key On. Sorry about that. Based on what you're written, unless your alternator is damaged it should be charging. You said that your charge light works (goes off when the engine runs) so that should mean that it is producing a charge. When your charge light goes out, that basically means that current is not flowing "from" the battery any more. So the fact that your charge light goes out must mean that you're getting some output. I have read that using your alternator to charge a dead battery is very hard on it (another voltage spike situation). Something to be aware of. SteveJ's suggestion to read the front and back of the EE section is good. I'll bow out now and avoid confusing things anymore.

I am not positive that the L terminal on a Nissan alternator will not take 12 volts. Your alternator may be okay. But I do know that the components of the internal regulator do not like current spikes (eg disconnecting the battery while the engine is running). You should probably take your alternator to an auto parts store and make sure it hasn't been damaged. You might be wasting your efforts on an alternator that will never charge. For the record, I measured 2.5 volts on the L wire of a 1976 car that has been converted to internal regulation. Maybe 1978 is different but it seems like if your charge light is on and your brake check warning light relay is activated and your ignition relay (as shown by the diagram on EE-15), that you should not get 12 volts on that wire, when everything is connected. The charge lamp and relays should drop the voltage, leaving less than 12 at the L wire. So something is off, either my understanding or your PO's wiring.

You got 12 volts on the S wire, which you should. What did you get on the L wire?

It looks like you're reading battery voltage at the alternator and that the alt is not actually doing anything. Do you have the L wire connected? It should get ~2.5 volts at the connector when the key is at On. As I understand things, the L voltage magnetizes the alternator coils so that they will produce electricity when the alt spins. The charge light (the Lamp that L refers to) should be lit when the key is at On, engine not running, and go out when the engine starts. If the alternator is not producing voltage greater than battery voltage, the light will stay on. That hanging wire that goes to the brake check relay is also the power for the Lamp. They are wired in parallel. As SteveJ suggests, you'll see it on Page EE-15. You should read ~14.8 volts at the battery terminals at about 2,000 rpm when the alternator is working and wired correctly (depending on load, like lights, fans, etc.

In looking at the U/Ub diagram you can say that Ub is definitely affected independently of U, by the off-spec. 126 ohm value, but can't say for sure if U is affected at all. I was hoping to be able to calculate some real numbers but can't do it with the Pin 8-9 measurement. Pin 8-9 measures R0 (100 or 126 ohms), so that affects Ub. But pin 8-6 includes the potentiometer and R10. If the potentiometer has higher resistance, then U and Ub might effectively cancel out, for the purpose of the AFM. But if R10 is the higher resistance and the potentiometer is unchanged, then voltage Ub is effectively lower (the sum of the resistances is higher) and the ratio is off. U/Ub would be higher than expected, which would create a lean mixture from the ECU (based on the fact that voltage is higher with the vane close - less fuel needed)). Since it is split and starts at 1:1 (the penny/quarter data) I would estimate the voltage error back to the ECU could be 12.5%. The highest voltages are sent at low rpm so low to part-throttle would be lean. There could be a logic error in all of the writing above, but in short, you can see that it is possible that the potentiometer resistance that affects U is unchanged. Therefore the U/Ub relationship could be off, with the higher 126 and 226 resistance readings. I almost bought one from Python Jenny. They didn't have mine in stock though so I went with MSA. Since you have three AFMs now maybe you could measure the voltage ratio of at least one, with closed vane. You should get about 50% of the input voltage across 7 and 8 with power in at 6 and 9. Any low amp battery will work, even a C or D cell. If you get 50%, then I will move on from the resistance readings, until some future date. My car is a 1/76 build and had the A31-060-001 AFM. It took me a while to get this all down so looks like I missed a bunch of new posts. No time to read them right now. Good luck.

I agree on the voltages. That's the purpose of the quarters/pennies procedure. f the AFM shows 50% of supply voltage closed and essentially 0% open, and a smooth change with vane movement then the electrcial circuit should be in good working order. I don't necessarily agree on the acceptable resistance readings. As I suggested earlier, 25% is a large variation when you're talking about measuring how much air is entering the engine. As the voltage output experiments have shown, the AFM is just splitting the voltage in half, and, most likely, using one side to determine air volume. I haven't done any electrical calculations for years, but maybe you could determine and compare the voltage split of a 100/180 potentiometer to a 126/226 potentiometer. Then we would have the difference in voltage output of the two, closed, open and in-between. Sorry it's not working for you Jenny. Re the pennies - I had pondered that. Best to get a balance and use known weights in the future.

Whoa. A shocking start to the morning (West Coaster). Where did you get it? And, just to confirm, what brand of ohm-meter are you using? I had to buy a new one when I started working on my car, because my old (very) Radio Shack analog unit wouldn't cut it in the low resistance range. Something is not right. Anthony G. in Post #201 got 186 and 103, I have a 76 and a 78 that both get ~180 and 100, and those are the specs. from the FSM. If your ohm-meter is working right, at the least you have received an out-of-spec. AFM. I bought my reman, AFM from MSA and it had a sticker on it from Fuel Injection Corp. POS = Previous Owner's Stuff?

B is for Battery. Just run a jumper from the positive terminal of the coil. When the coil is powered, the module will be powered. Or if you're mounted by the old module, find out which wire is powered when the key is on. There are different views on the RPM limit, some say it was actually due to the coil not the module. Others point out that 4500 rpm for a V8 is 6,000 rpm for an L6 (sparks per revolution conversion). Good luck. Make sure that you have a good ground to the mounting hole metal. A bad ground will kill the module, otherwise it's very durable.

I found this web page helpful even though it's aimed at 510s. The wiring to the module is correct and described in component terms instead of colored wires. One thing it leaves out that is very important is to make sure that there is a good connection from the mounting holes to ground. I ran a dedicated ground wire from the hole with the grounding ring. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html You won't have to do any of the breaker plate instructions, you don't even need to get in to the distributor. I have seen people mount these in the engine compartment or next to the module in the cabin. The advantage of the engine compartment is that you can just run two extra wires from the coil to the module, and just disconnect the distributor wires from their junction box and connect them to the module. Disconnect the plug from the original 1978 module in the cabin and it's ready to go. Use your judgment on insulating the hanging plug, some wires will be hot but they won't do anything. If you mount in the cabin, you'll need to do a little more work to figure out what wire comes from where. I picked up a small project box at an electronics supply store and a junction strip for the wires and put everything inside, then mounted it in the engine bay where a harness holder had been.

That is a ground wire. The switch just completes the ground when the engine is cold. The thermotime switch only works to shut off power to the CSV when the engine gets warm or when it gets hot from usage. It would only affect starting. You probably have a four port housing, but since you don't have the water temperature switch for the extra pickup coil (1976 Federal, like I have) they just put a plug in the extra port. That does look like a tight fit. I had mine off to do some manifold work when I put a new one in so can't tell you how to get in there when it's on the engine. Good luck.