Zed Head

Here's the real deal 6097. Is it somebody on the forum? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-85/

You have to measure down to the mounting surface of the pressure plate. It's shown in that thread. You have only measured to the top of the fingers, it's not clear how tall your pressure plate is. 92 mm is a number that should work on any transmission, because the clutch fork pivot ball is at the same distance from the back of the engine on all transmissions. The mechanisms of the clutch system fit between the engine and the transmission. There are many different TOB sleeve heights because there are many different heights of pressure plate. If the fork is hitting the back of the hole and the clutch disc does not release there's nothing that you can do to make it work except get a taller sleeve.

I watched the video again. When I first watched it I assumed/hoped that the "thunk" at the end of the stroke was from the pedal in the cabin hitting the floor stop. But I think it might be from the fork at the back of the hole in the transmission. Remove the rubber dust cover from the hole and see if the fork is bottoming out. If it is, and the fork is seated on the pivot ball correctly, then your throwout sleeve is probably not tall enough or the fork is broken or something. You've achieved maximum movement.

I'm not sure that Carter is what they used to be. I like the Airtex and Delphi myself. They might actually be the same pump, rebranded. Are you having pressure leakdown problems? There are ways to test which side the problem is on, pump or FPR.

On sale. Great deal!(?) Four cheap pumps or one factory pump? Decisions...

Most of the auto parts stores have the right pump if you just give them the year and model. Delphi seems like a good brand name. I had an Airtex E8312 and it worked well, and lasted about 40,000 miles. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/delphi-automotive/fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps---tanks/fuel-pump/fuel-pump/83db8e3f0135/delphi-automotive-fuel-pump/dlp0/fd0035/v/a/6634/automotive-car-1975-nissan-280z?q=fuel+pump&pos=1 Looks like Rockauto will save you a lot of money on the Delphi pump. Amazon has them also. They all look about the same, a silver cylinder with some hose nipples and a piece of rubber sheet for vibration damping. You'll need to use some ingenuity to get it mounted to where you won't feel it running. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

Extend the rod.

Here it is. About 6 cm from the flat part of the fork to the edge of the bolt head.

Uh oh. Take that measurement that EuroDat shows. It will tell you if the throwout bearing is close. I have posted an measurement from the bolt head also. Not sure if it's in that thread or not. Yours seems a bit far away. Could be a short TOB sleeve.

Here's a Fidanza thread and a 92 mm thread, with some good clutch fork measurements from EuroDat.

More? What brand of flywheel? The Fidanza sticks sometimes. p.s. did you measure the stack height of the flywheel and throwout bearing? 92 mm. A very common error, mismatching the parts.

The P79 head had a bigger combustion chamber. The flat tops kept the CR up. 8.8 versus 8.3. People say the HP numbers are higher because the numbers were calculated differently. They are not actual measurements.

CO's comment about the reservoir is the most important one to focus on at this point. Apparently, you've been running with a low coolant level for quite a while. That's not good. Get the system back to the way it is designed to be and see what happens. If you lose coolant, there's a leak, as the FSM says. If you determine that you have a leak there are ways to find it. You can also verify a leak by pressurizing the coolant system. And, don't overlook that the coolant system is designed to use a certain type of radiator cap. The cap releases pressure but also holds vacuum. So that the coolant can pass between the radiator and the reservoir as it is designed to do. As far as looking for bubbles, the chemical test was developed and is widespread because the bubble method is not reliable.

Might be in here somewhere. Find it and check the part numbers and year ranges. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/front-fender-hood http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

The inhibitor switch provides the current that actuates the starter/seat belt relay. It's shown in your diagram. Two devices, plus the switch and the ignition relay, that have to function properly before power makes it to the solenoid. It seems unnecessarily complex, but it is what it is. SteveJ has replied but I must hit Submit Reply anyway

It's not an "overflow" bottle. It's a reservoir.

Seems like you might be avoiding the hard truth. Flushing the passages of a cooling system that used to work fine instead of verifying that your head gaskets are in good shape. If you have a blown head gasket flushing will not help. You can get a test kit for not a lot of money. Harbor Freight, OReilly, Amazon. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/combustion-leak-detector Is your heater core connected? You don't have it bypassed? Bypassing the heater core can cause cooling problems.

That rim looks a bit used. Aluminum wheels can bend also even though they often break. I'd lift each wheel, set up a runout indicator next to it and give it a spin. A runout indicator can be just a screwdriver sitting on a cinder block. The guy that balanced them should have noticed something but might have had old equipment.

To be rigorous you'd try another 0.6 coil. Also, it looks like you're saying the 1.0 worked fine. Not clear why you went to 1.5.

Check your spark plugs. Use a borescope. How can you tell it's coolant smoke? I had a leak at the back of the head. Not obvious. Passenger side.

Z car wheels are lug centric. In other words, the lugs and lug nuts are used to set the center of wheel's spinning motion. I would check the holes in the wheels and the lug nuts. Make sure that they fit tightly. Those wheels require a certain type of lug nut, that fits the hole precisely, not the tapered seat nuts that a steel wheel would use. Also, check the seating surface of the wheel on the hub. Might be some crud causing wheel runout.

Couldn't tell, I looked back but I don't think you mentioned which coil you were using. Maybe in your other thread. I had a vague memory of a similar thread (among many, tach problems are common) and found it. Post #29 is the one.

The CA Datsun thing is probably for using a ZX distributor in a 240Z. The 280ZX's use a resistor inline to the tach also, just like the 280Z's. The 1978 ignition system is very similar to the ZX system. Nissan just shrunk the electronics down. 1978 and 1982 both use a 0.84 - 1.02 coil primary circuit specification. Both ignition modules are designed for the lower resistance primary circuit, and the tachometer system is also. You could just copy the specs from the ZX system. 1982

I'll go ahead and step aside here. Get a meter or test light and leave the key at Start. Start probing. Good luck.