Zed Head

I was showing you the Ignore option without choosing who to Ignore. I would have used my own account to show you but you can't Ignore yourself. so the option does not show.

There are a lot more dealers advertising on the web now. Google or your favorite search engine will find them. Old stock. Actually, this is not a dealer but seems like an outlet for them. https://www.kiacheapparts.com/oem-parts/kia-door-window-belt-weatherstrip-0k01159780?c=bD05Jm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1raWEmbz1zcG9ydGFnZSZ5PTE5OTkmdD1iYXNlJmU9Mi0wbC1sNC1nYXM%3D

If you hold your cursor (or finger on a phone, I'd guess) over the person's avatar you have the option of Ignoring that person's posts. When you're logged in you won't see their posts. Out of sight, out of mind.

Looks like you survived COVID, I hope.

CO posted a time stamp version. The tarp is at the beginning. Before "working on a sex farm, plowing through your bean field".

It's tied to the VIN, which you supplied. It's a small community. There are no winners in these internet forum beefs. The harder a person tries to win the farther away they get from the goal. Best let it fade and start talking about the car.

Off topic - I had to build a Faraday cage from copper mesh to get a CD player to work way back when. You could hear the local radio station on the land line in our apartment, the complex was right next to an antenna. (I am not sure how that worked either since it should have needed a tuner. But the voices were there...). I bought a CD player, took it home, loaded it up (one of those 6 at a time jobbies), and it wouldn't play. I took it back to the store and they tried it and it played. Took it home, still didn't work. The radio over the phone line had always bothered me so it was in mind. I had access to copper mesh so built a tube of mesh around the CD player and it worked. One of those weird things where book learning actually had real world value. Never actually figured out which component was affected.

Not sure why but that link comes up as "item not found". The best way to post videos is to make a youtube channel or upload them to Google Drive or Microsoft's OneDrive, then provide the link.

Just to rewind this back the very beginning - we all suggested that the piston be removed from the bore to check the seal so that the new one does not leak like the old one did. That was the original point of the thread, I think. It has not been accomplished. Wally is still talking about a plastic or steel cap when he's looking at the face of the piston that we want him to remove. If there's no spring behind it then pressure can be used to pop it from the bore by applying air to the fluid inlet or bleed screw. Overall, he might be installing another dirty slave cylinder. A big circle with the same end result.

That is splitting hairs, I think. And z89 had a good point about telling what the sellers accepted, maybe they gave him a sweet deal because he was a good guy. In today's collector world, you're supposed to hang on for every dollar otherwise people get upset that you're harming the "marque". If the number is too low then people will start abusing "Bob and Marci" for selling too low. That actually happened on the barn find 76 280Z. Somebody implied that the seller had sold too cheap and was foolish for not holding out. Money is always a touchy subject. Ideally, big picture, z89 would have known or assumed that people on the most popular Z car site in the world might know who the previous owners were. The thread should have started with "Hey, I bought Bob and Marci's 240Z!". But he just joined a couple of years ago so apparently did not think about that. A person could argue that Patcon (sorry Patcon) should have thought about that too. Everybody wondered but was anybody really surprised when he didn't give an answer? The attempt to create an interesting story has gone awry. But it can be saved, the car is now owned by an enthusiast instead of an investor. That's a good thing, right?

I hate to feed the fire, but, although Patcon is always one of the level-headed respectful members, in this case, asking how much somebody paid is not quite right. I think the old word to describe the request used to be "gauche", I although I don't know why since it's just French for left. So we had a wrong request and a poor response and now people are piling on. He did provide the VIN and it is in Carl Beck's list. And, I think that "Bob and Marci" have posted on the site since I joined back in 2009. So, maybe they had a reason to sell. Maybe something happened. That's where I would go if I knew them or had a personal relationship with them. I would @ them but if they wanted to talk about selling their car they probably would have posted already.

Seems like there is too much help in this thread. But, I'll still add this. p.s. the fact that the piston is deep in the bore means that the seal is tight or the bore is dry or both. The spring should push it forward. (Actually, outward).

Don't let one guy ruin it for everybody. It's the internet. Edit - Actually I see several people criticising. Still, ride it out. The vast majority of car buffs were not top students in English class. Writing, reading, and comprehension skills only went as far as making a list of car parts while the teacher spoke. If your intentions were good it will come through. Good luck with the car.

I'm watching a spinning wheel on another thread while I write this. It seems to be thread specific sometimes.

From where? What brand is it?

I don't have any adbockers, up to date Chrome on Windows 10, newish computer, but CZCC often takes forever to load a page, and is even timing out now at times. Sometimes reloading while the little wheel is spinning helps, other times it just starts a new spinning wheel. Seems like it has to be some sort of tracking or history extraction Google thing going on. Edit - adding a @Mike . It seems like a complaint but it has to be reducing traffic on the site. Which is bad for everybody.

Try Hybridz. The owner might be on that site. Might help to say why you're looking for it. Do you want to buy it back? https://forums.hybridz.org/

Here's the factory parts. Aftermarket might look different but the general shape will be the same.

That's the piston with the rubber seal. You want to remove that and clean the bore and make sure the seal is not damaged. There is a spring behind it. You might have to blow on the fluid inlet, under the green cap (red cap in SteveJ's picture), to get the piston to pop out.

A timing light should give you an idea of how the timing changes with RPM and throttle position.

This sounds more like a carburetor problem. Flooring the accelerator removes vacuum advance from the equation. A tight spring in the vacuum advance canister would reduce timing advance. Low RPM would also reduce timing advance. I don't know much about the SU carburetors but it sounds like a jetting or needle placement or piston problem. Maybe one of the carb guys has some ideas. Edit - the behavior is what engines do when the fuel-air mixture is lean.

Remove the striker from the car body and manually insert it in to the door latch. That will give you a clue if it's an adjustment problem or a sticky latch. If it's a sticky latch you might try removing it and giving it a good hosing with carb cleaner then relubricating.

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

The 280ZX alternator is internally regulated. I can't remember from your previous posts how you modified your wiring to run the ZCD internally regulated alternator. You need to decide on external regulation or internal regulation, and get the wiring correct for that system. I think that it's all been covered in past posts. Both methods work the same way. The main problem with external regulation is finding high quality external regulators.

Good luck getting an exchange or refund from ZCD. You can get a 60 amp 280ZX alternator from almost any auto parts store and go back to the "T" plug. It should bolt right up and work just fine.