Zed Head

That looks pretty simple really, doesn't it? Pretty standard resume stuff. What's interesting though is how specific things were added that were not in your original request. And the last item is kind of nonsensical. "offering long-standing industry relevance". That's not really something that is "offered" and not something that a member can use, like technical knowledge. Wasn't in the original request. Where did it come from? It's a dangerous pseudo-tool.

I just did a search for when the local school's year is over and the AI Overview says it is Thursday, June 12, 2026. And it gives the document that it "extracted" from. In the referenced document there is no mention of Thursday. "AI" just chose it as the day of the week. The AI slop epidemic is getting worse. It's incredible to watch. I still see people posting AI Overviews here and there as fact.

A recent AI interaction.

Edit - about $32,500. Not bad for somebody's garage hobby race car. The 76 US import to the UK is ending in minutes. Interesting that the seller commented that the fender edges had been cut and properly sealed to fit the flares and wide tires but the images he uploaded seem to show raw rough cut steel. Nobody commented about it. Still looks like it will get a decent price. About $24,000 already. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-117/ "The flared aspect of the wheel arches were removed to accept the new extended wheel arches to allow wider wheel fitment (10×5). This was done in a clean and linear manner and sealed with a view to no potential future corrosion. I will upload photos of the inside of the arches on Monday."

I have a 2003 F150 truck that uses a pilot bearing. I think that pilot bearings are more common today than bushings. (trivia - a bushing is actually a type of bearing). But the Ford part seems much more robust than the thin Nissan part. Might be a factor. I collected some stuff from the internet. Not sure how a person might decide which to use. #9, #9, #9 ... https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/piston-crankshaft/9 Weird that your part numbers don't match the MSA site. I tried to search them and nothing came up. Are they old images? I had to use words. https://www.thezstore.com/product/5789/roller-clutch-pilot-bearing-70-20-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx-350z-370z-23-25-nissan-z-w-manual-trans https://www.thezstore.com/product/1069/clutch-pilot-bushing-manual-transmission-70-96-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx-z31-z32-03-20-350z-370z-23-25-nissan-z https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/precision/engines---transmissions/transmission---transaxle/clutch-parts/clutch-pilot-bearing-bushing/2b39333b9fdb/precision-clutch-release-bearing/ope0/fc68329/v/a/5307/automotive-truck-2003-ford-f-150

Is the other throttle return spring attached? Me again. Never thought I'd hang around this long. Just lucky that I bought a car with all of the problems. Edit - p.s. - check the linkage back to the firewall and to the pedal in the cabin also. Might need lubrication or adjustment. Don't forget carpet under the pedal.

Which part number? Exact match or not? Just curious, I already know that a variety worked on my car.

So, you're not using the switch when it's hot outside? Might want to give it a squirt and see if things are better. Here's what the FSM says about its operation. Don't forget though that today's gasoline is less volatile than back then. Formulations have changed for emissions purposes. It's kind of interesting but not talked about much. https://www.google.com/search?q=volatility+vapor+of+gasoline+today+clean+air+act+history

What did you get and where from?

I think that w3wilkes is suggesting that your CSV has failed. Would be worthwhile to confirm that it's squirting. It's probably almost 48 years old.

I'd squirt some oil in the adjustment hole and spin the drum before destroying it. You'll waste the shoes but not the drum. It's the friction of the shoes that's holding it, plus maybe a ridge inside the drum. Lubrication wil help. It can take a surprising amount of force to get the drum off. Typically, wiggling it back and forth a mm at a time, pulling on the edges of the drum, will get it to move. I get the impression, no offense, that you're being too gentle, because it's "not right" that it's stuck. Use controlled brute force. After banging that screwdriver against the adjustment wheel.

A test, if you can time it right, is to open the hood and press the throttle blade closed while the idle is hanging. Even if you've cleaned everything, it's a test worth doing. Narrows the possibilities down. Also not clear if the idle slowly drops to normal or if it's just high since you put things back together. The second might just be a vacuum leak. I had two cases of hanging high but don't want to complicate the discussion. Yet.

People are shocked! at the quality. Surprise.

Yes, but it's not clear what was done on this car. The lower port is not, apparently, blocked off. The big hose to the can seems to come from the lower block port. A person could argue "close enough", but, is it? The buyer can modify it, it's not a huge deal.

It has some odd mods. Check out the catch can plumbing. Looks like both crankcase vents run to the can. Can't tell if the system is actually open to atmosphere or plumbed to intake vacuum. Maybe there's a hose to the air filter box. And that's a lot of rubber fuel hose running over the top of the engine. Nissan used as much metal fuel tubing as they could, rubber hose was mostly short sections joining hard line. I watched some of the driving video and it's weird how these Youtube people become "authorities" on vehicles. Said that the Z's were considered to be poor handling, at about 8:14. Youtube is a very strange place. As is the internet in general.

You'll feel the teeth of the adjuster with the screwdriver. You'll be able to tell. A small thin screwdrive with a sharp edge is best. It has to grab the teeth as you push it inward. And, as noted, the access hole is at the bottom. The drawing that Nissan provides is good, just not well-explained. They're showing the screwdriver in action. They even show the direction of rotation. Jam it in, make the wheel turn until things get loose.

USA car in the UK. 1976. No reserve. Modified. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-117/

Check your distributor breaker plate. They tend to get rusted and stop advancing timing under vacuum. That will affect emissions. Might be able to break it free with some lubrication, but don't force it. The plastic bearing retainer tends to break. Disconnect the vacuum canister rod and move it by hand. Or remove the retaining screw for the canister and move the canister back and forth. Sometimes the diaphragm in the canister cracks and vacuum no longer moves it. Be gentle. I checked Rockauto for Champion plugs and that number does not show. Closest is RN11. There sure are a lot more plug types spec'ed these days than I remember. I think that manufacturers might just be saying "close enough" to make some sales. Nickels and dimes... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=205531&cc=1209260&pt=7212 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,ignition,spark+plug,7212

What's the test procedure? Idle only or 2500 RPM under load? Does it have a catalytic converter? Since the system was designed to pass emissions I would set everything to factory specs. Ideally you'll be able to take it out for a good Italian tuneup or two before the test.

Since you're set to 3 bar maybe consider finding a factory OEM 3 bar regulator. 3 bar (43 psi) is common. I remember going through the search for an adjustable FPR, even buying an Aeromotive unit, but finding that the aftermarket units all leaked down rapidly. I eventually ended up with a late 70's Porsche style Bosch adjustable FPR that I modified to use a vacuum reference. It was fun. Anyway the OEM FPR designs just have a better seal than the aftermarket machined aluminum units and they're designed to last 100's of thousands of miles. Worth a consideration, I think.

Thanks for the pictures. I've never seen that. Was the engine running and it just snapped? Sounds like you already have the spare belt on. I would just assume it's a freak accident (not the six freaks in a van kind) and not worry about it.

Might be the regulator. They typically have very large seat area valves that can easily get jammed with a piece of debris. Are you sure the squealing is coming from the pump? The pressure must have been set before the test. Have you tried adjusting it while testing? The simple test of pump power is to squeeze the return line while the pump is running. If pressure does not rise it's the pump. If pressure does rise it's the regulator. If you find it's the regulator you might as well take it apart and look. There's really not much to them.

Your problem describes air leaking in, not fluid leaking out. One thing you might try, if you're actually seeing air released whenever you bleed it, is to bleed at the MC using the bleed ports there, intead of at the wheels. If you get air from the MC then you can refocus there.

Are you just assuming that your rebuilt MC can't be the problem? All of the other parts are factree except that one, if I read things right.

How about a picture or two?