Zed Head

The above still applies. Some time on the back looking at the various cables and moving parts will probably tell the story. Part #4, the equalizer might need some lubrication, along with adjustment of the unlabeled part between 2 and 7.

Not a bad starting point for a Z that looks pretty nice and will probably be up and driving with just a little bit of work. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-91/#comments-anchor

Looks like about 0.1 mm clearance there. Is that finished work or in progress?

No offense intended, but keeping the matching block with a 260Z probably adds very little value. It's just the way things are. People just don't appreciate the 260's like they do the 240's and 280's. My theory is that it's the shape of the 6 compared to a 4 or an 8. If you really want more power then an L28 swap would probably be the best value for the money. On the other hand, if you just want to see what you can do with an L26 then what you're talking about makes sense. Good luck.

What is the mechanism of the parking brake actuation? It's mechanical, right? No hydraulics involved? Should be able to just eyeball the mechanism and see what it's doing.

Ignition modules can fail due to heat then come back to life when they cool down. You could take some cooling spray, like Dust-Off Duster, and spray the Pertronix module under the cap in those minutes when it's not restarting. Or take a spare spark plug, pop a plug boot, and check for spark. Wouldn't be a surprise if it was the Pertronix module. Apparently quality dropped dramatically many years ago. There are old posts about it. The Pertronix I's were also sensitive to leaving the key on. It can damage them.

I would measure what really happens rather than hope the table is correct, before taking any actions. You can set the timing to zero, to stay on the indicator, or use a dial-back timing light. Connect the vacuum advance to intake vacuum at idle and get the vacuum advance number. Disconnect the vacuum advance and rev it up to get the centrifugal. The TB vacuum advance hose is ported vacuum and only works when the throttle blade is off-idle.

Here's a good starter Z. Probably get it for a good price. Has some minor accident damage but very little rust. Most of Washington state doesn't use salt. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-91/

I think it's across the whole classic car market, not just Z's. I follow some of the older muscle cars and other sports cars like the Sunbeams. Many are going RNM. Ya gotta put those speed parts in there! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-54/

I had a similar problem with the AFM switch once. There was a hair or a piece of dust or a bug wing stuck on one of the contact points. They looked closed but there was no current through them. I didn't find the actual offending item but the problem disappeared after cleaning the points like you'd clean a set of ignition points. It was a head scratcher for a while. Also had a problem with low idle RPM dropping air flow low enough to shut off the fuel pump. Probably why Nissan switched to the oil pressure/alternator switch later.

Or you can swap the bearing to the smaller one. Good luck.

In other words - it's a buyer's market. There should be some good deals out there. This one looks like it was probably a good buy. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-166/

Here's an interesting one where BaT relisted a car and said that the previous high bidder did not follow through, but they still show the car as sold on the first listing. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-pontiac-firebird-74-2/#comments-anchor This is a relist after the vehicle was previously sold on BaT in July 2024 and the winning bidder failed to follow through with their commitment to purchase. This was not due to any fault with the vehicle. The winner’s participation on BaT has been restricted.

Oops, I missed that, even though it was right there, all alone. I couldn't imagine doing that so I didn't imagine that it might have been done. This is my second time assuming that things would be a certain way (see "dry return line"). I need to open my mind. He did use the word "this" above the picture. Oh well.

If you describe the complete sequnce of events, from starting to idling, it might give some clues. Wide open throttle adds 27% extra fuel over what the AFM indicates is needed, but it also adds a ton of air. And, even though you said that you used a timing light you didn't say what you measured, what the actual timing is in degrees advance. I would also watch timing while it's running. Maybe you have full time vacuum on the distributor when it should be ported. The numbers will have the clues. We need numbers.

Just curious but is that picture of the actual item or is it a stock photo from GRW? Why does it have a GRW sticker on it? Edit - I clicked the GRW link and see that it's not the actual part, it's a GRW part. You should show the part you're selling, not the GRW part. Also, you might want to show the front cover just to verify that it has one. And the clutch fork pivot. The small stuff that adds up. Good luck.

Firing order off maybe? Swapped wires? 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise.

Pulled a few things out of the recent posts. I misread the statement about the return line being dry. My brain converted it to vacuum reference line, I never imagined the return line to the tank being dry. Weird. If the gauge said 40 psi and you have the orignal factory pump installed then you might have had the system set up in "deadhead" mode. Doesn't matter now since you have the factory FPR installed again. If your timing light shows correct timng then the position of the distributor isn't critical. Common for the oil pump gear to be off a tooth. It only affects distributor body position. You are using a timing light to check timing, right? You're backsliding a little bit. Where are the details? Runs like crap is not very informative. At least you're making progress. It pays to be methodical.

How do you know the BaT sale didn't go through? The Facebook listing is after the BaT listing. Maybe Gindy is TopGun1. 15 weeks ago is about April 24. The BaT sale was on March 5. I might be missing the point...

If I was a Facebook person I would just ask directly on the group thread if any of the members are scammers. If your question gets removed that's a clue. Or send them over here to this thread. If the point of the group is to sell parts they should welcome an invitation. Anybody selling parts on the internet knows that scams are a concern. They shouldn't be offended. Successful scammers often make some good small sales to set people up for the big money-makers. Build the reputation then use it.

Datsun Parts and Accessories sounds like Datsun Parts LLC. Are they based in California? Post some screenshots for people who don't do Facebook. Can't see nothin' unless you join the private group. What's the point of Private if you're trying to sell parts? Makes no sense. Sketchy.

If swapping regulators worked I'd say you had a bad gauge and/or the adjustable regulator was plumbed incorrectly. 40 psi should have worked "okay", maybe even just right. Many people measure 40 psi on their stock regulators. It's higher than spec. but the old EFI systems tend to run lean. Sorry to be a buzzkill. It worked, apparently, but it's not clear why.

I'd make a plan and do the simple stuff first.

The fact that it starts implies that the wire back to the coil is correct as CO says. The tachometer, ECU, and ignition module are all on the same circuit. The fact that it runs best with the throttle wide open kind of implies that it might be super rich. That could be from a hole in the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm or if the coolant temperature senosr circuit is open/high resistance. You might do the Pin 13 resistance measuremnet at the ECU and see if it's in the right range. And pull the vacuum hose to the FPR to look for fuel. It should be dry. p.s. you can test the injectors using a jumper wire from the coil negative terminal. Attach a jumper, turn the ley on, and tap the wire quickly to ground repeatedly. Every third tap should "click" all of the injectors. Don't do too many "clicks", each one squirts fuel in to the intake system. This will test the wiring and the ECU function. It's pretty east and you don't have to listne over starter moise. Of course, you can also use Noid lights in an injector connection too. The factory way. But, hopefully not the case, you migth also have a bad ECU. They run rich as they start to die.

I think this low miles 76 might have slipped by when nobody was looking. $67,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-88/