Zed Head

I understand how it went together. I was asking for any future searchers wondering if this will give good results or not. Can't tell. If there's too much play you'll probably get vibration. If it's off-center, the same. It's a good quick "get by for a while" repair though. Might be fine for a long time. It's just much less precise than the Nissan procedure described in the FSM.

Can't tell without a video! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoon

Did you measure the play (axial displacement)? Just wondering. Not much to be done if it's off but it would be interesting to know. These instructions are hard to understand but they can be guessed.

There's a tool bag in Miscellaneous. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/miscellaneous

Let's see the key. Seems odd that the bag wouldn't have the word Nissan on it. The tool bag does. There was a similar post a while back where somebody found a magnetic key box attached to his car and thought it was "factory". Hard to imagine Nissan supplying a device to store an external key on a car. Every thief would know "it's here somewhere!". The YKK seems right though. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YKK

Ouch. The investor's market is taking a hit. Same car, seven years later, somehow with fewer miles (probably the same actually). Looks like the year got corrected also. Maybe that's the missing $19,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-sunbeam-tiger/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-sunbeam-tiger-86/

That must be up in the 10:1 CR range, right? Have you calculated it? Flat tops with an N42 head?

This is the most likely cause. It would be unaffected by the shoe change. Very common. Somebody on the forum just had a similar problem. The drum is a close fit around the perimeter of the backing plate, see red arrow. Any slight bend will cause rubbing, and the plate material is not that strong. The plate itself acts like an amplifier of the sound. Some finesse with a hammer will fix it. Usually you can see a shiny spot where the drum rubs.

Piling on - actually, it sounds like the brakes are/were stuck in the applied position. Were the drums hard to remove? You've probably solved it and moved on. Just posting for fun.

Just for clarity, and maybe a clue - you said wheels, plural. If that is correct then, of course, the cause is either identical on both sides, or is being transmitted from the differential. Or mabe even the propeller shaft, or coming from the shaft. Are you sure it's coming from the wheels? And how fast are you going when you hear the noise? Could be more a lot more detail to the description. Good luck.

Problem fixed? Cause unknown?

Get a higher profile. 70 instead of 55. Didn't do the math but there's a lot of room above 55. Just seems more complex than necessary. I understand wanting the same diameter for steering or differential. I think that there are other ways to get there. Since you'll be using tapered lug nuts you'll need to be more aware of thread engagement. You're going to lose 3/8 - 1/2" with a spacer. There's probably enough but it's one more thing...

Why not "stretch" a narrower tread on to the rim? It's just s apare. No spacer necessary.

The topic has come up several times over the years. Put the words below in to Google search and a bunch will come up. site:classiczcars.com valve seal replacement

I think that you're going to find a shoe retaining part, or a broken/loose spring inside a drum. The parking (not "E) brake "no longer" works, meaning that it did for a while. Something broke or came loose.

Here's a new offering that might be a fun resto-driver money pit garage project. Probably needs a little bit of work on everything. Has an odd rust pattern. No reserve. California. Gas tank cleaned but says it's not been run since 1991. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-297/

The thread has morphed in to a "1975 has a unique u-joint" topic, in part. It has a different bolt pattern at the diff flange and it appears that it uses a different size u-joint. The 430-10 doesn't work for a 1975 propeller shaft, at least this particular one. He started discussing it in Post #71. Lots of stuff in between.

Some sort of mini car show at the tire shop where the guy pulled the filters after he opened the hood? I see a 67(?) Camaro, a Mustang, and a car that suffered an engine fire in the background.

They should put the specs on their web page. Looks like it's only made to match the Honda Ridgeline from 2006 - 2008, but the page might be incomplete, there might be others. Odd that your 75 is either unique in u-joint size or the other folks that have tried the staked joint repair have a different (wrong?) size in theirs. The back flange is unique so maybe everything is a one-off. https://ujointstores.com/product/tus-11a/

What's the part number of the new injectors? Maybe put the original ones back in. The hose on the injector can be replaced easily. One possibility is valve seals. Maybe they finally gave up the ghost. Gasoline smoke would smell terrible. Rich conditions smell like raw gasoline before the smoking gets bad. If you're not smelling gasoline I'd suspect oil. p.s. if you're sure it's gasoline check your fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragms are known to rupture. Pull the vacuum hose, if it's blown the hose will have liquid fuel in it. The extra fuel would have a bigger effect when the engine is hot.

Probably just me, but what the heck is an AB valve? Anti-backifire? Not seen one on an L6. Are you working on a different engine?

It's the other way Mr. Patcon. More R = more fuel. That's why I asked about the actual numbers. Maybe he has some dirty connections on the coolant temp circuit.

I tried all of the years frm 75 to 78 on my 76 and they all started and ran. The 78 is the only one that caused problems, it died after about 15 minutes. I think it was just a bad ECU though, not the model of ECU. Where did you get the reman? I'd be more inclined to look at other things for a rich conditon, than the ECU. Corroded connections on the coolant temperature sensor for example. You said that things tested well but didn't say if you just did continuity checks or measured actual resistance. Are there any other modifications to the car? Ignition system, tachometer, etc. The ECU uses the pulse on Pin 1 from the coil to determine when to open the injectors. I had a problem where the ECU would not work when the tachometer was removed with the stock igntion. That was on two different cars. But it did work with a different igntion setup later. The ECU seemed sensitive to that Pin 1 voltage.

Good luck with the longer slave cylinder rod. Hope it works well. If you consider the contact points on the fork ends you might be getting close to the edges there. Plus there wil be some "unengineered" loads on the fork itself, especailly the spring clips that hold it to the pivot ball, due to the more extreme angle at full disengagement. Just some thoughts to have in mind if thngs feel odd later on. You're outside of the design envelope but might be just fine. Borrowed some pictures from the internet. Just fun stuff to think about. https://maseraticompound.com/collections/datsun-280zx/products/datsun-280zx-clutch-fork-throw-out-bearing-and-clutch-spring-set

It would be pointless for them to show possible stroke so I assume that what they show is the travel achieved when the pedal is pressed to the floor. I'd remove that boot and take a measurement.