Zed Head

I'd check eBay. Motorman is a reputable refurbisher. Been around a long time. https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/NISSAN_FUEL_INJECTORS.html https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=280z+fuel+injectors&_sacat=33554

Where do you see $450? The auto store injectors are pretty good. Looks like you can get them for under $60. $360 total. Still spendy. https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/v/a/6637/automotive-car-1978-nissan-280z?q=injectors

Here you go, with one old post. It was SteveJ, and maybe Captain Obvious before him. Not sure if EuroDat is in there or not. (The Share thing is not working right, try this one.) Just go to post #42, Share is messed up.

I have a vague memory of @EuroDat posting about this. You should put "Bosch relay" in your title. That will catch the eye of the people who know.

@Terrapin Z might have a used set. Or @zKars Anybody who's had a few Z's starts collecting. Stuff that they'll never use.

Any Z or ZX from 75 - 83 would work. Also the early Maximas with the L24E. And various Volkswagen Super Beetles. There's actually not a lot in the wrecking years anymore though. I think that I got lucky because the government was doing their cash for junkers program so a lot of Z's, ZX's, etc. ended up in the wrecking yards in my area.

Never mind. Probably wrong audience... Replacement...

Government is as government does. Still hard to tell who and what to believe. Even after all of the recent backlash the CDC still can't deliver a straight message. Check out these two recommendations, on there right now, same time. https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/notices/covid-4/coronavirus-canada Key Information for Travelers to Canada Travelers should avoid all travel to Canada. Because of the current situation in Canada even fully vaccinated travelers may be at risk for getting and spreading COVID-19 variants and should avoid all travel to Canada. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/vaccines/fully-vaccinated.html Fully vaccinated people can resume activities without wearing a mask or physically distancing, except where required by federal, state, local, tribal, or territorial laws, rules, and regulations, including local business and workplace guidance.

They might be 300Zx injectors. But they're definitely not 280Z or 280ZX injectors. There's no barb on the inlet and the seal on the intake end is wrong. That's the design that came after the 280ZX style. Not worth much. You can usually get wrecking yard injectors for about $5 each. Plus if those have been sitting out for a while they might be rusty inside. Look for numbers molded in to the plastic if you want to figure out what they came from.

That's awesome. Try some other songs and see what happens. Sounds like you have voice activated youtube search now.

I should add that if you're trying to figure out the wiring diagrams and thinking "man, this is really difficult" you're not alone. My eyeballs started getting sore trying to follow the various traces around the page, and jumping across the connection points. But if you take the time and put the effort in you'll find that it gets easier and you can solve a lot of your problems just by studying the drawings. For what it's worth.

Sorry dylancorrea, I was right with my first picture but got distracted by the parts you were holding in your hand. My mistake. I had you on a wild goose chase. cgsheen1 is right. Here is that first drawing that I should have left in. Run a switch to ground for the Red with Black stripe (RB) and you have low beam. Do the same for Red with White stripe (RW) and you have high beam. "E" is ground. The colors I'm talking about are from the main harness. Always good to use the diagram, because Nissan used different colors on the sub-harnesses. Sorry about that.

The white with red comes from a fusible link. The red wire feeds the fuse box. That's a link and two fuses that could be blown. Meter, meter, meter, test light.... check, check, check, know.

They're the right colors. See if they go to the places the wiring diagram shows. Use a meter and check continuity back to the fuse box. Use an inline fuse if you're not positive. If you're wrong or there's already a short in the system the fuse will blow and you can refigure with intact wires. https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-and-accessories/bussmann-atc-fuse-holder-with-cover/32415_0_0?spps.s=1183&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ELC:71700000060662503&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhr2FBhDbARIsACjwLo1sKXm9FtB6ZFhnSgkynIx14jjztRx1TNquFBWnbEfNCHmbqdQdaBYaAipQEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Use a fused circuit to be sure you don't burn any wires if you get them wrong. Cheap insurance.

The wiring diagram is more confusing that a person would think. The headlight power comes in to the switch on white with red stripe then heads off to the fuse box on red. Two separate wires. But the running light power comes in on an already fused circuit. You can't just ground a wire at the switch to power the headlights. The headlights are grounded through the dimmer switch at the base of the turn signal stalk. Here's the headlights. Connect those two wires and the headlights will have power. The turn signal stalk will control high or low.

Sorry, I posted the wrong switch. That is the turn signal dimmer switch. Let me get the right one and draw some stuff on it.

You could jump the connection plug. You could even put switches in for each circuit. Circuit diagram below. You'll have to go back to the main harness for the colors. Looks like you've lost all the little parts so that switch is probably not salvageable. @Terrapin Z might have a replacement. If he does you should install some relays. That switch overheats and that's why they fall apart. Edited out wrong switch picture...

That looks in excellent shape. The gauge sender also, which is also big money (sorry AK260...). Here are some comparables. And, probably not really available if a person tried to buy one. Make sure you keep the filler cap also. Those are NLA everywhere and anywhere. Impossible to find. https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/gas-tanks-components/gas-tank/

Take some pictures through the fill hole to show how much rust is in there. Should be worth a lot. The tanks changed in 1977, so 75 through 76 would be right. Looks like the original 76 tank.

The Permatex product uses a stencil. But I think most of our old windows have just degraded over the whole surface. It would be a lot of painting. https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/defogger-repair/permatex-complete-rear-windowdefogger-repair-kit/?locale=en_us Using the small brush provided, apply the repair compound over the top of the stencil. (E) Make sure that the repair compound overlaps with both ends of the broken line. Wait for the surface to become tack free. Repeat the application procedure three (3) times. Look through the window from the inside; there should be no light showing through the repaired area. If light shows through, apply another coat of repair compound.

This looks new. Don't remember seeing it before. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09117-Complete-Window-Defogger/dp/B000ALBZJY

As I understand it they are baked on during window manufacture. I don't think that they can be scraped off. I remember somebody posting a better web page about it, maybe even a video, but here's good old Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Defogger "These conductors may be composed of a silver-ceramic material printed and baked onto the interior surface of the glass, "

I don't know how real this site might be, I've never seen them before. But the part number came up. Not sure if "A tube center" is the same thing. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/exhaust-tube-muffler/to-jul-73/5 https://nissangenuine.com/nissan/nissan-20050e4150-a-tube-center/

Also helps explain why some of us get weird ads pertaining to nothing we've ever looked at. One of our fellow members has been looking at dirty ear wax products! Please stop! (Actually, the dirty ear wax ads have stopped. Thank you). "It starts showing ME different ads based on the people AROUND me."