Zed Head

Mike changed the log-in procedure.

38 is actually high. Spec. is 36.3. Avoid the urge to break out the parts cannon. It can get expensive.

All of my comments were just based on logic, understanding how the system works, and the facts presented. No need for sunspots. Hard to see how you can still have excellent WOT performance if something at the hose from the tank to the pump was not right. Doesn't make sense. I'm going to go with coincidence then. Something else happened at the same time you replaced that hose. Good luck. p.s. the fuel pump and FPR are at the foundation of the Jetronic system. So if you're looking at fuel pressure you're looking at Jetronic.

Or, maybe it never gets the 27%. Maybe the TPS never shows WOT. Could be a TPS problem. It's not clear when "sluggish" occurs. WOT or cruising. That would be another good clue. .

I would guess that with the vacuum hose connected it only runs well at throttle opening greater than 34 degrees.

Hate to keep harping on it but this statement seems to knock out several possibilities, without it there's not much to go on. The pump is able to make the engine run like a rocket, pressure and flow, apparently, once the regulation (pressure lowering) of the FPR is removed, and it seems reasonable to assume that ignition is fine for the same reasons. Pressure, flow, and ignition are available. I tried to lead to the new problem in my post above - the engine will run rich at less than close to WOT, without the FPR regulating pressure. The clues point to a lean mixture. The very common 280Z EFI problem.

Might help focus to restate the problem. If it runs great (like a rocket), what's the problem? I notice that you didn't report your AFR's in rocket mode. What are they compared to sluggish mode.

When you unplugged the vacuum reference hose you raised the fuel pressure in the fuel rail, engine running, making the fuel-air ratio richer at low to mid-range throttle opening. You would feel that effect if you were running lean before. At open throttle you'll get the same effect as removing the hose since there will be very little vacuum in the intake system so you shouldn't feel any difference, hose on or off. You might try the fuel tweak modification and see what happens. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

@Racer X has a collection of cars. Might be willing to part with some parts.

Those are good points. Another that comes to mind is to pull the small wire from the starter solenoid, the one with the spade connector, and turn the key to Start. The engine won't crank but the fuel pump should get power. It's the Nissan recommended fuel pump test. Usually you can hear it run if it's running.

Might be that the pump itself is overheating and locking up from trying to pull through the filter. The factory only used a coarse sock in the tank. The pumps are designed to push, not pull. Might be worth a test with the filter removed. The new relay could be overheating also. It happens with the old orgiinal relays. If you can test for voltage at the pump it might tell you if it's electrical. Also test for voltage at the injectors if you changed the EFI relay. Or just test anyway, maybe you have a new problem not related to the parts you changed. 1978 had two separate realys, fuel pump and EFI. Earlier years had the two combined in to one unit. Not clear which you changed. And, of course, if you have the old parts you can swap them back in and see what happens. The heat soak problem with the EFI engines usually manifests as hard starting, then running like crap for about 20 seconds that feels like 20 minutes.

A sinlge odd story about "locking up" doesn't hold much weight. Might be that the user screwed something up. No reason for steel drums to perform differently than aluminum, as far as braking is concerned. They just weigh a bit more and hold more heat. I wonder where they got them. It looks like they found a drum from another vehicle with the same dimensions. https://www.thezstore.com/product/6204/steel-rear-brake-drum-70-78-240z-260z-280z Description: Nissan discontinued the original aluminum drums; however, we were able to locate these proper fitting and operating steel drums at a fair price. Sold individually; one required per side (2 per car).

You can tell where it's leaking from the leakdown test, you don't need to tear in to it. That's the basic point of a leakdown test. Figure things out before tearing apart. It might not need anything. Could just be dry rings. Good luck.

When did it last run? Didn't say what's leaking. Valves might just be a valve job, head removal. Rings mean more work.

A battle between an old American muscle car and the old Japanese sports car today. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-124/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-pontiac-gto-167/

I'm wondering what is the point of the project. Why do it if there is no problem?

Could be the throttle position switch.

Are you having percolation problems?

After reading the fine print in that link I pasted above I really don't know what to think. Derek got a second door that was different than the first problematic door. But it was also problematic. The text on the web page says that all of the critical areas were checked extensively. How did those two slip through? https://resurrectedclassics.com/collections/sheet-metal/products/1970-1976-datsun-240z-260z-280z-steel-door-shell-set " NEW Reproduction Complete steel door shell set for 1970-1976 Datsun 240z 260z 280z. These doors were produced after years of development, with numerous trials and test fitments to ensure their quality and ease of installation. This is the complete door shell, not just a skin, passenger and drivers side. All of the factory correct welded nuts and holes are made into this unit just like the factory. Our doors have the correct shape, curves, and stamping like the original doors. Please note: Doors from 1973-1976 have different interior panels where the door panel clips into, as well as different internal window mechanisms but it will bolt onto your car. You will have to use 240z door internals and door panels for our doors or modify the door to fit your existing parts. Please compare visually before purchasing to make sure you are satisfied. These doors will not fit at all for 1977-1978 280z. Our parts are bolt on ready, just like the factory, so you don't have to spend hours welding a panel in or paying a body shop to patch your existing panel. Replace, don't just patch! All of our steel panels are manufactured for enthusiasts, by enthusiasts, with special attention paid to a quality fitment and ease of installation, while matching or exceeding OEM standards. "

The thought actually crossed my mind when I was writing, that it was incorrect. But, I'm not actually sure what it is that he bought. The catalog and web page are not very clear. The web page says "shells". The catalog says doors, but the picture is of a skin. It seems like it might be somewhere between complete door and skin. Not sure. But, I just went to look for more information and came across the specific door steel page. It describes "1970 to 1976 door shells". I wonder if they sent the wrong year to Derek. https://resurrectedclassics.com/products/1970-1976-datsun-240z-260z-280z-steel-door-shell-set " 1970-1976 Datsun 240z 260z 280z Steel door shell set $1,395.00" Looking at the intricacies of the innner door in your picture - the window mounting, and the latching mechanism, and the arm rests - it's hard to imagine that all of that would be right if the basic elements of mounting the door and the striker mechanism are not. It's an opportunity for RC. I hope that they take advantage. It might be that they don't know of the differences that occurred over the years and just assumed.

Was the issue similar? Looking back at Derek's comments I notice that the replacement skin was not the same as the one it replaced. That's not a good sign for future customers. How would that happen? So, it looks like there is some variability across the production process. And the fact that the screw holes don't line up is a big deal. If RC has more stock on the shelves it might be found that some are correct and some are not. The problem is that they're not all the same. They should be. At this point RC should really consider building a jig, in Georgia, that represents a 240Z body and test fitting each panel. Otherwise, it's almost certain that other customers will have, or are having, this type of problem. I work in manufacturing also so this seems obvious to me. You have to wonder how these parts are being made if there is so much variation on areas that are obviously critical to proper function, like the door striker plate mounting holes. Sorry RC, but if there's variation here there's probably variation everywhere, in all of your stamped metal products. There is obviously a problem with the manufacturing process. I'd guess that the parts are actually made elsewhere, maybe overseas, so the problem is probably with RC's supplier. Tight specs have not been set or have been set but are not verified. Good luck with the venture. Things will only get worse if this is true. As Derek suggested, customers should test fit their parts immediately and request corrective action if they find problems. It's a bummer, but it seems necessary.

Can't remember if you still have EFI or if you went to carbs. They might have different causes.

I do like to help solve a problem if I can. @Resurrected Classics should have a chance to respond. They joined the site March 2023. They got some positive comments. Let's see what happens. Derek is not your run-of-the-mill car guy, he probably knows what he's talking about and went way above and beyond what most would. No offense intended to the run-of-the-mill guys and gals. Who knows, maybe people should just avoid buying door skins from RC. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/45015-resurrected-classics/

It would be interesting if you sent the doors to someone else with an original no-bodywork 73 to see what they find. Unless you're going to deconstruct them and start over. Also, if anyone out there has seen both 71 and 73 doors, do they swap easily? I don't know much about the 240Z body differences. Only what the parts catalog shows.