Zed Head

The potential problem is the fork bottoming out on the hole before release. Your picture shows quite a bit of distance. Eurodat has posted the slave cylinder throw before, I think it's shown in the Clutch chapter of the FSM. If you don't have that amount of free space behind your fork that could be a problem.

He'd have to have one made. Everything after 1975 is a staked u-joint so that's a hurdle. Might be able to find a flange with the DAT-110-300ZX pattern. I think that they are actual flanges that he used to sell as part of his V8 conversion kits. Not sure though if they are differential flanges or propeller shaft flanges. I never thought about it much when the web site was active. He quit selling Zcar parts now though. Might be worth calling the guy. You can tell by the web pages that he's more old school than new. Pretty sure that brokenkitty and Johnscars are run by the same guy. Phone: (214) 426-4101 Fax: (214) 426-3116 Email: Help@JohnsCars.com Mailing Address 800 Jaguar Lane Dallas, TX 75226

The 300ZX used a different pinion flange bolt pattern, bigger bolt circle. The picture and specs below are from either Johnscars or brokenkitty, can't remember, but saved on Hybridz. Looks like brokenkitty has left the ZCar world. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar.htm Easiest might be to swap a 280ZX or 280Z pinion flange over. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125392-clarification-of-diff-pinion-flange-dimensions/

I was talking about the distance between the two surfaces. The purpose of the colored clips/snap rings from Nissan, to get the proper play in the joint. Nissan didn't need to worry about those surfaces anymore with the staked joints since the staking is done from the outside. The joint could be loose, or it could be tight. But it can't be adjusted if you only have one snap ring thickness.

Here's an old discussion. Interesting topic when you consider the seven different clip thicknesses Nissan used for getting a precision fit. The kit you get will have only one. Anyway, what can you do. It's an old car.

There's quite a bit around the old internet about converting the staked joints to clipped in. I recall mixed results. Since Nissan wasn't using that inner surface for the clip to seat against it's likely that they did not machine it to a tight tolerance. Just a guess. Might have fit or balance problems. Worth a shot. The switch point seems to be November 74. So it's 1975 model year and on. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft/6

Your propeller shaft (Nissan word) has the wrong bolts. They should be "D" head bolts that seat against the inner yoke surface. You can see the flat in the picture. The bolts are still available, it looks like. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft The rod is called a compression rod. It stops the control arm from moving back on braking. Some people call it the TC rod since it is also in tension under reverse braking. Nissan started staking the propeller shaft u-joints in 1974 I think. When the "big body" came around. You can see the stake impressions in your picture. Just some minor details...

I used to have trouble trying to figure out what the various diagrams were saying. Then I summed it all up as - "any contact mark pattern that does not overlap an edge is good". Basically, if you can see all of the contact point on the face of the tooth, it's fine. Doesn't have to be in the middle. Just has to be off of any edge.

It's been a week. Who knows.

Flag the heck out of it.

Probably any of 4 - 7 but you won't know until you install one and see. Make sure that you use tight bushings, sloppy bushings make close quarters worse. A 1970 car is in that range where people cut and reweld their shifters or trim some of the hole or console. Soak those old bushings in very hot water before trying to remove and install if you're going to try to reuse one on a different shifter. They can get brittle and its worse if they're cold and dry.

The check valve might be stuck. Maybe you can poke it free, if so. On your puddle of gasoline - you got really lucky. I hope that is a detached garage. If not, you almost burned your house down, and killed your dog. People should stare at that picture for a while and imagine. It will be incentive to be cautious and think about consequences. You dodged a disaster. Sorry to be critical but sometimes we forget.

Might help to describe the engine. Carbs, igntion, etc. You've probably mentioned it in the past but searching past posts is work. You could also put some stuff in your Signature. Guessing that the filters are off? (You can see white smoke.) Both carbs puff or just one? One second is not much. Neither is two. One one thousand, two one thousand. Are you sure it's not running longer? How can you see several "few revolutions" in one or two seconds? One more nit-pick - if it's puffing out of a carb or carbs, is that "running smoothly? Hard to grasp what you're describing. Might be a sticking intake valve causing the puffing. You might be able to discern between ignition and fuel with starting fluid on the restart problem.

I made a loop out of a piece of fuel hose to get my pump to fit. It gives flexibility of orientation without kinks. The pump will probably work fine but might be noisy. Looks like it might be over-spec. for your needs although the specs shown are in an odd format. Apparently it's a knockoff of the Airtex E8228. The Airtex E8312 used to be the pump for the 280Z EFI. But it's all weird now, hard to tell what's what. It should spin up and pump fuel though. Good luck. https://www.autobestusa.com/universal_pumps.html

Shouldn't the word "OIL" be oriented longitudinally? Not good! Just kidding. Doesn't look like the 2nd owner did any work on it, by the original BAT listing in 2022. Just tried to resell it about five years after buying it and $98,000 wasn't enough. 2022 listing - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-205/ Looks like the reserve is at least $75,000 this time around - https://www.classic.com/a/mecum-indy-2024-N4Vvky4/lots/1971-datsun-240z-coupe-W9Qm6jW

Which pump did you get? You ID'ed the old one but not the new one. There's no reason to start the engine to get the pump to work. It will flow fuel all day if battery power is supplied. You can do that by removing the yellow wire at the starter solenoid and turning the key to start, or by taking the cover off of the AFM and moving the weight off of the fuel pump contact lever with the key on.

Any chance that you have the pump installed backward? They typically have a check valve on the outlet end. Also, if you wire it backward it will spin backward. If it was mine, I would disconnect the hose from the tank and see if fuel flows freely. If it does, then reconnect it to the pump and disconnect the outlet side of the pump. Gravity should fill the pump and fuel should come out of the outlet of the pump through the check valve. That would be the priming step. Once it is full of liquid it should push it up to the filter and rail.

That was the first image I came across but another search makes those numbers seem high. Especially for the relatively low pressures the 280Z system runs. Although you did raise your pressure from 2.5 to 3.0 bar. Pressure drop across the filter and fuel lines is a factor also. But other charts show about 10 amps. If you have the meter you could measure. Fun project. https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05245/en-us https://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fpspecs.html

#12 https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/e-f-i/control

The other typical fuel smell source is the exhaust. It gets pulled through various small gaps in the back. Ironically, gets worse with the windows down, the pressure differential changes. The biggest improvement seems to come from sealing the edges of the vinyl covered panel on the hatch lid. The fumes get sucked in around the latch and the two holes on the corners. The other biggy is the tailight gaskets.

Never realized that the 280Z pumps don't seem to be on a fuse. They are powered directly from the pump relay, which is protected by a fusible link. Seems like they could have run it through the fuse panel, since it has a long run plus exposure to the elements. Kind of odd. Here's an interesting chart showing some typical pump draws. https://aftermarketindustries.com.au/fuel-pumps-accessories/fuel-pump-current-draw-chart-walbro-vs-bosch/

I thought the topic was fuel smell in the engine bay. There are exposed lines in the cabin behind the plastic, vents and filler plus the tank. That's a whole different problem. This link is about 240Z's but the 280Z's are very similar. Pull the plastic and explore. https://www.zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm

I understand what you wrote the first time about bypassing the canister. If you're smelling gas it means that the carbon/charcoal media in the canister is either saturated with fuel or it is cracked and not absorbing the vapors properly. You're trying to redesign the system but what you really need is just new canister material and a properly functioning control valve. You said that your control vlalve doesn't work. You might be able to fix yours by opening the purge valve in the cap, drill it or remove the return spring, and using a separate vaccum control vlalve on the purge line. Welcome to the world of old cars and NLA parts. Your best bet to get rid of the fuel smell is to get the system back to working like it was designed to work. A salvage yard canister from a newer car and a vacuum control valve would do it, I think. They show a spring inside the cap. It must be a pull spring, not a push spring. That's what keeps the purge valve closed when there's no vacuum. Anyway, notice also that there's a "fixed orifice". Meaning small, so that air flow is low. You could probably remove the cap and connect the purge line directly to the orifice with a vacuum control valve in-line. Also, activated carbon is the more technical term than charcoal. Your carbon has probably lost its activation.

Here's another that you might actually find in a wrecking yard. 2005 Chevy Impala. Actually any Chevy around that year might have one. The hardest part might be finding out where they put it on the car. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2005,impala,3.8l+v6,1431102,exhaust+&+emission,vapor+canister,5180

Any screw in the vicinity will probably be a match, they're not special. Look around under the dash and try a few.