Zed Head

Not clear what you mean when you list those numbers. The first three pairs are AFM pins. Were you doing the AFM test procedure? Not uncommon to have the plug fall off of the bottom of the AFM, since gravity is pulling on it and the clip sometimes doesn't get clipped in when you reinstall the AFM. It might just be that the AFM plug fell off of the AFM and the bullet connector over the intake manifold for the coolant temperature sensor is unplugged. One big plug and one small one.

I was trying to be humorous but came off as scolding. Sorry about that. I'm sure that cgsheen just got his condensers mixed up. He knows a lot more about electronics than a simple condenser problem would require. Some of it's in his sig. Still waiting for bluez to give us an update...

I wonder what happened to Joseph and Koni Lee.

Your comment about wrongess is wrong. WRONG! Just kidding. Actually cgsheen's comment was only partially WRONG!. Disconnecting the condenser is a good idea. The points won't "burn" immediately. And the part about grounding (shorting) is RIGHT also. Commenting about somebody's wrongess almost always goes wrong. Like this post probably will. Right?

You should sell the file to Vintage Dashes for $100.

Use a meter or test light and determine where you're losing power to the system. If you have power everywhere, check the ground on the other side of the points. Basic electrical system testing, power and ground. Check power with the key at run and start since the ballast resistor has two circuits through it. Spark can be lost by either no power or no ground or constant ground. So, confirm also that the points circuit is complete when they are closed. Also, check that the condenser is not shorted, via testing resistance through it. Apparently, like many new aftermarket parts, condensers are getting poor even new. Sounds difficult but once you start poking around and getting data it's easy.

My old hunting ground. The lower yard tends to flood in the winter time, it's by the Tualatin River. 75% off! No idea what's there. October 21th?

The FSM instruction comes after the test of resistance at Pin 13 at the ECU connector. The assumption is that the temperature circuit is complete and working correctly all the way to the ECU. You need to be sure that the ECU is getting the proper information. Measure resistance at the pins and compare to the table of resistance versus temperature. From the 1981 Guide -

If I lived in the Denver area I'd probably buy that engine car and resell the crankshaft. Seems worth the effort. Easy money.

You guys probably knew that already. I imagined a question about the veracity of the Copart ad for some reason. Are diesel cranks still a thing?

I might have found a clue. Picture 15 in the BaT listing below. The gas cars don't seem to have anything there. p.s. apparently you can reVIN your car with a label maker in Colorado. https://www.classic.com/veh/1981-datsun-810-maxima-jn1hu01sxbt004519-n3yxe6p/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1982-datsun-maxima-2/

There's a discussion back around page 17 and earlier about the weld bead and the modified nut. Suppsoedly there was a note on the MSA pages about it but I don't see it. You might contact Jospeh or Koni Lee since they were in the conversation. @Joseph@TheZStore @KONI Lee https://www.thezstore.com/product/4296/koni-sport-adjustable-gas-strut-rear-70-8-74-240z-260z-coupe

Some things just cannot be explained. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-chevrolet-c20-pickup-5/

Driving video! I'd add details on the engine work. A summary of the overall build might help you too. The build thread is 26 pages long. TLDR is the acronym, I think? Good luck.

Here's another good starter Z. Needs work but looks decent. Good for hooning... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-272/#comments

If it's not module I'd start a new thread. This is a GM HEI module thread.

Those are big drops, with money tied up while sitting in his collection. Is the overall collector car market really that bad? Maybe he just got tired of them. He set the reserves pretty low. 124,240 (6/19) - 106,000 = 18,240 15% drop from the previous BaT sale. 62,500 - 39,000 = 23,500 38% drop from previous. The 72 actually sold for less than the first time it was sold on BaT. $41,250 (10/18), 62,500 (7/20), 39,000 (10/24). https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-64/

The Mint car is really getting the adulation. People coming out of the woodwork to talk about it. The story seems bigger than the car itself. 17+ hours to go!!!! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-128/#comments

The stock coil should work fine. You haven't really confirmed that you have a coil or module problem.

That's what TheGuild implied. He also said that Spyder-Man displayed cars at the Nissan dealership. Looks like he paid a "display fee" of about $23,500 for about four years. $5.875 per year. Seems really odd that a businessman, a car dealer, would take such a big loss. Maybe he thinks he's avoiding an even greater loss. Who knows, but interesting to watch. If he's taking a loss here, a person would guess he'll take a loss on the Mint car. Of course, it's only a loss if the previous sales actually occurred, money changing hands. More stuff to make you wonder. Maybe BaT is just a facade. chigger1717 won the auction. Looks like they bid on a few Z's in the past.

Seems odd that both of the high dollar Z's are owned by the same guy, Spyder-Man on BaT according to TheGuild, but have titles in different states. The title for the 72 that is ending today is still from Oklahoma from when TheGuild owned it. Makes you wonder if it actually sold the last time. Even though BaT shows "Sold" I don't think that they verify ownership trasnfer. They just collect their fee and move on. The Mint car has a North Carolina title and supposedly changed owners after the last sale on BaT. But the location shows Portland Oregon, where 911r is apparently a professional BaT "seller". I think that the high dollar collector world is just full of intrigue. Hard to tell what's really going on.

Adjusting the hood rest bumpers and the latch should get rid of the vibration. Looks like you're assuming that air from underneath is lifting the hood and causing it to flutter as it squeezes out. But the vents should help with heat soak of the injectors and the hot start problem. Some people have the hood louvered via stamping. On that video, the guy writes about later 280Z's and hood vents and implies that it was done for hood vibration. Only one of them was functional. Fun fact. Not really clear why Nissan did the vent. It also leaked water on the battery, I think. Something to be aware of. They look good though.

This thread probably has some good knowledge in it, even without the Photo****et non-pictures.

As usual, the FSM has good information. I'd have to have a rack in front of my eyes to know where to put the nipple and observe the outlet but apparently there is a lubrication procedure defined. Also, various grease applications described before this section. 1976 FSM - Steering.

I've never seen the multiple figure pages like that, with the arrow you have to click on to get to the next figure. Didn't know they existed on the carparts site. You're right, there's two versions. Many (some?) people remove parts 17, 18, 20 and 21 and pack grease in there. On the 2nd figure, Aug 73 and up. You can tighten it up a bit too, but you have to be sure it doesn't bind at the extremes of travel.