Zed Head

Any chance you disturbed the EFI power connection? The fusible link at the battery positive terminal.

Not stealth. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-bmw-325is-47/

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/safety-belt

Which car are you working on? Funny, but I think that you need an R200 mustache bar so you might as well have dropped it with the diff anyway, if you're replacing an R180 with an R200. Shouldn't need to mess with the input/pinion shaft flange. If it's one of the early 240Z's with the diff set forward you might need a new propeller shaft. Or maybe it's a Subaru 3.9? Anyway...there's a solution out there somewhere. Good luck.

I went through that thought process myself and even managed to pry the mustache bar around and loosen a bolt here and there to get it out. But the procedure shown in the FSM is best. You can go one step easier and just remove the mustache bar also. I don't know why they don't recommend that way, since then everything is straight up and down. Load comes straight down, goes straight back up. The front cross member and mustache bar are good handles for stabilizing the load too. It's in the RA chapter.

Don't forget...

Actually, not trying to one-up anyone, but the vacuum advance on the Z's is ported vacuum. So it's closed at idle, no vacuum. But, if you have the vacuum advance hose on the wrong port you might get full vacuum advance at idle. Which would screw up your timing light reading and your idle timing. I'd hook up the light, then remove the vacuum hose. If timing changes the hose is on the wrong port. If you're still not sure of firing order and timing, then set your damper pulley mark at zero to ten and remove the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointing at whatever terminal is "number 1". Move your number one wire to that terminal and check your timing again. If things are screwed up then you might have a problem with your damper. Make sure you know where you started so you can at least get back there if things don't work.

Could be a restriction on the inlet. Easy to test with a piece of hose and a gas can.

Those are used on the 81-83 280ZX F54 block and 5 speed transmission. Earlier doesn't have the holes. Apparently it's an NVH reducing device. Somebody must have identified some flex between the transmission and engine block. They do look cool.

I don't want to be a buzz-kill but the CDC is making a "greater good" choice with their new mask guidance. Be careful. Know your local area. The CDC is thinking in terms of the whole of the United States and they and the federal government want to "reward" people for being good and getting vaccinated. Still a lot of unknowns out there, as far as variants, plus vaccinated people can still get COVID. Sorry. Buzzz....killed. Here's my region. Alabama looks pretty good now but you guys had some high numbers for a while.

It has been proposed that either today's fuel is not the same as in the 70's, or that the electronic components in the ECU's have aged. Either way, without a time machine your quest might be impossible. The AFM's from MSA seem to run rich. So one of those might get you closer. But might cause problems if you need to pass emissions. Good luck. I think that I already commented on the 180 versus 150 measurement. I don't think it matters. "Approximately 150 ohms" just means there should be "some" resistance.

This modification really is worth trying. It has worked for many many 280Z owners. The hissing might be the FPR. They hiss as fuel squeezes through.

The block in his post appears to be done. Already at .030" over. eBay is probably the most likely place to find them, or that Facebook store/market thing. Never tried the Facebook, but people seem to like it. Gotta be some NOS stuff out there somewhere. Weird that manufacturing is so far behind. Hope it comes back. Not a good sign that everyone is out of stock, of almost everything.

I know. Didn't see a need to make things more complex. The point was that F54 block 280ZX pistons should be used as the search criteria, among the usual parts store sites.

280ZX pistons are what you are looking for. That would be an F54 block, but the block doesn't really matter. Might help your search. The 280ZX F54 block used a different head with a bigger combustion chamber so flat tops were used instead of dished. But the crankshaft and block dimensions are the same. Looks like Zcardepot knows where to find some. Or not. Good luck. https://zcardepot.com/products/piston-set-flat-top-l28-280zx-81-83

The distributor's vacuum advance and the ported vacuum source on the bottom of the throttle body. Ported (throttle blade controlled) vacuum runs both of those.

Two Z's sold today. The white one looks like a clean start for somebody. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-173/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-56/

The fan only has an effect at very slow speeds. If you're seeing high temperatures while cruising at, like, 20 mph or higher, it's not a fan problem. Unless the fan and shroud are actually blocking air flow. Run-on (dieseling) is usually caused by running rich, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber getting hot.

We destroyed this topic a short while ago.

I did not watch the whole video so can't speak to its correctness. I posted it for the label on the part, and maybe the video is right. Good luck.

I knew I should have taken those courses. I didn't like the instructor and had other options. I modified my post. I would think of the temperature switch as the signal. To be frank though, I'm not even really sure what parts Mushi is working with. Does he have the full controller or just a temperature switch running (signalling) a relay? Unclear. Just to fill things out. It seems to fit the subject. Not too late, for me. - https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/systems/electronic-system.html

Of course, geologically, the U.K. has never been part of a continent (you didn't capitalize). Just saying! Boris will proclaim the U.K. as a separate continent soon, minus Ireland. No offense. That guy is quite the character though. Pretty incredible, what he's doing, what's going on in general. Good luck. To all of us.

Here are the super-simplified instructions. There's a youtube link, if the embedded image doesn't show. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr_8-AnEMRo

This part might be confusing. It's just poorly written instructions. It should say "switched power" or "ignition switch". One of those lost-in-translation things. Plus the fact they're calling a power source a "signal". It's not a signal.

https://www.haydenauto.com/media/4039/p-475-3647-fan-controllers.pdf